Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6011

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6011

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Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 115.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-Y6011 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.

Product Features

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Grade AAA available only

Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast production arrangement

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1300 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

Slip Resistance: 》 0.5

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6011

FAQ

1. For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.

2. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

3. For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

4. Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

Q: How to buy tiles? What kind of good?: Are specifically described as follows: 1. Look at the tiles in addition to see whether there are black spots, bubbles, pinholes, cracks, with or without scratches, stains, missing edges, missing corners and other surface defects, but also pay attention to whether there is leakage Throwing, leakage and other defects. 2. weigh is the weight of the weight, try the tricks of the handle, for the same specifications of products, good quality, high density of brick feel more Shen, on the contrary, the quality of the product feel lighter.

Q: The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!: if it was me i would remove them, you need to have a flat surface, and it in best to dura rock screwed down before the tile if it's on wood. the easiest way to remove them i have found is to get an air compressor with a air chisel tool for it. or you can always use the old hammer and chisel/flatbar method. but it is really important that you have a smooth surface with no dirt or you will get little air pockets under the tile making it really easy to crack the tile's and it will look like crap because pieces will come out. and when your done with the job, the next day you can lightly tap on the tile with the handle of a screw driver and if it sounds hollow it means you got air pockets underneath. if you have air pockets it is possible to take just the affected tiles out and remortar it/them. also make sure you use mortar not glue, some people think they can use glue but trust me in the long run it doesnt work that well. good luck i hope this helped

Q: I have asbestos tiles in my basement (of a home I recently purchased). I sent them off to a lab for testing. The lab results came back 4% asbestos. I definitely want to remove the tiles. The majority of the tiles are in good shape. Some of the corners on a few of them are cracking. Right now I am considering the DIY vs. hiring the pros for removalI have been given conflicting advise thus far. Some say do it yourself, there is a very low percentage of asbestos in your tiles -- 4%. Others say Don‘t risk it, pay for the peace of mind. Here are my questions: Is 4% a low percentage for asbestos tiles? Is this low enough to be trivial or of lessor concern when taking on DIY removal? The pros quoted me $1300 for removal and an additional $275 for an air quality test/certification. Is this a fair price for about 500 square feet of tiles? Is air quality testing really necessary given the low percentage of asbestos in my tiles? Or, are they just making money off the fear and hysteria around asbestos?: Asbestos in tile form is stable, until you start messing with it. When you try to remove it, you will inevitably crack some. This will release the fibers. Just to give you some perspective, it only takes ONE fiber to cause mesothelioma or asbestosis. You can take the chance, but then what are you going to do with the tile? There are very specific EPA regulations concerning the disposal of asbestos. You can't just throw it in the trash. If you get caught, you will be fined a lot more than the contractor is charging you. If it were me, I'd pay the contractor. The certification will help if and when you ever sell your house. Good luck.

Q: I am a big fan of tile in homes. I really love tile flooring and tiles in shower stalls, as it looks really nice and feels good on the feet lol. Is there any way to tell the difference between a porcelain and ceramic tile by looking at it after it is already installed? Friends of mine have tile in their kitchen on the floor, and I would like to be able to tell the difference by looking at it from an already installed view. This would also help for visiting other homes with tile, to better understand the difference in look and feel.: Once installed, no there is no way to tell the difference between ceramic and a porcelain.. Side views at a visible cut or whole pc is the only way to tell for sure. Pull up a in floor heat register ( if there is a forced air system) to see... A properly installed tile (ceramic or porcelain) will last the same , so porcelains ( unless a true porcelain and there is a major difference between a trus porcelain and the glazed porcelains most people sell) are over sold to the public. Both are good tile so don t over look ceramics. Any questions e mail me through my avatar. GL

Q: I‘m tiling my bathroom shower and need to cut holes for the shower head and body sprayers. I‘m using porcelain tile and I‘m not having any luck cutting the holes. I‘ve bought a couple holes saw bits that say they are for porcelain, but they just don‘t seem to be doing the job. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.: This Site Might Help You. RE: Cutting holes in porcelain tile? I‘m tiling my bathroom shower and need to cut holes for the shower head and body sprayers. I‘m using porcelain tile and I‘m not having any luck cutting the holes. I‘ve bought a couple holes saw bits that say they are for porcelain, but they just don‘t seem to be doing the job....

Q: I am tiling a bathroom, and have found a deal on 4 tiles. However, I am no expert when it comes to calculating, and am having difficulty determining how many tiles I should buy. I don‘t want to buy much too many, or even much worse, not buy enough.I am planning to do 3 different areas in the bathroom. I have included the measurements, in inches, of each area. Can you help me out?: you would be able to desire to borrow a tile cutter so which you would be able to shrink tiles to greater healthful into the corners, and an prolonged spirit point (the longer the greater constructive). you in addition to would choose a on the instant wood batten and a few nails. If the area of the tub isn't point, you could restoration the batten to the wall with the nails, and lay your first row of tiles alongside the batten. Then while they're dry and caught good, eliminate the batten and the nails, and glue all your different tiles up against the row you have in simple terms fixed. Then purchase your tiles, some glue, some grout and a few plastic spacers. you in addition to would choose a plastic thingy to coach the glue with (you commonly get one loose once you purchase the glue) Then plan very carefully precisely the place the tiles will bypass, earlier you particularly initiate artwork. you will desire to centre the tiles on the centre of the tub, in different words, the centre of the midsection tile (or, if favourite, the connect between the two midsection tiles) will bypass on the midsection of the tub. restoration your midsection tile(s) first, then pass outwards from there. in case you have a window, you additionally should centre your tiles on the centre of the window.

Q: My husband and I just purchased our first house and we are pretty much tapped out for now. We dont have alot of money to remodel but enough to make some temporary improvements until next spring. All of our families are coming for the holidays and I want to spruce up our house. My biggest problem both of our bathrooms floors they are bad looking. I want to put peel and stick tile down but not sure how to measure for it. I want to do this today while my hubby is at work so I can surprise him. Im working on the master bath first its not that big, its only 5 feet by 5 inches long and 5 feet by 3 inches wide. How much peel and stick would I need? I have already cleaned the floors very well, what other tools do i need to get?: Most tile packs give an area coverage guide ,this site will give you a visual instruction of how to lay etc hope it helps,also times the length by the width to get the area 28'6 You will only need a stanley knife and a straight edge to cut self adhesive tiles

Q: My fireplace is non-working and it is made of ugly red tile that looks dirty and has pen marks on it from previous owner's kids. I want to paint it to update the look. What would Fleck Stone paint look like?: Painting okorder /... these tiles, or stones, whichever you like, are already mounted on sheets, so you don't have to place them individually. Again, you get that double stick tile paper stuff, then just stick it on the red tiles, put new tiles on top, then grout! Super easy!

Q: hello, this is my first tile and grout job, tiling is done now for grout. bought premixed grout, rubber float, sponge, started grouting last night, put grout on the float and applied to the tile. pushed it into the space between tiles, but it seems like alot fell off in the tub (its in the spaces between tiles) but is this normal for the grout to fall off the wall (i guess it would be considered excess?) but is that normal no sure how applying grout is suppose to look? i know i need to let it sit for 24hrs then do clean up then seal it when done. plz let me know if that grout falling in tub is normal or am i doing something wrong? ( grout is in the grout line though) just looks like alot is falling, or am i useing to much at one time? don‘t know? thx again for any info. mike: it is practically unavoidable not to make a mess when grouting tile on vertical walls (unless you are a pro). . .but, just like anything else, the more you do it, the more efficient you become. I wouldn't worry too much, as long as your joints are completely full. One concern would be the 24 hour wait period to clean up. . . After you fill your joints with grout it helps to hold your float at almost a 90 degree angle to wipe off the excess grout on the tile. The more you can wipe off, the easier it will be to clean. I usually start sponging with clean water after about 10-15 minutes after the joints are filled (depending on joint width). Fill a 5 gallon bucket with clean water and continue sponging the excess grout off the tile and cleaning your sponge as you do it. Once you are satisfied with how clean the tile is, let it set for another 30-45 minutes. There will be a light grout film or haze on the tile. Take a cheesecloth or the inside of a sock and wipe off the haze. . .wait a day or two then seal it. But, I certainly wouldn't wait 24 hours to clean the tile, it may be too late.

Q: We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :): This isn't a very difficult task to undertake. There are several factors to consider when building this counter top: size of tile compared to counter top size (to figure out where the cuts will be other than the back, of course), top mount sink or undermount sink (how to finish the sink opening) and remember that a tile countertop will raise the sink and therefore you may need an extension for your pop-up/p-trap, will there be a backsplash? will that backsplash interfere with any outlets?, does the tile come with matching end caps or will you be using wood to cap the ends? Picking out the proper material and knowing how to do the job start to finish will make things soooo much easier. I would definitely use a 3/4 exterior grade plywood with cement board and cement board screws. Some tiles already come pre-spaced (4 1/4 x 4 1/4 tiles). Shoot me an email with some piictures of the project and I will try to help you and see where you possibly may run into some problems (if any). In the meantime, I suggest looking in HD or Lowes for those step-by-step books.

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