• Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66 System 1
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66 System 2
Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3A66 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict quality control system on product, package and after sale service

  Competitive price and with quality quaranteed

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement after order is confirmed by the client

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement from the client

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for the whole importing and exporting procedure.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A66

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Floor Tile, what is the popular size?

—— Now the popular sizes are 30*30mm, 40*40mm, for some special market, we are shipping 50*50mm tile also.  

 

2.    Is there a MOQ for each model?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special models, whose production could be arranged frequently, 2 or 3 models could be mixed into one container.  

 

 

3.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit?

 

 

 

Q: do everything and what thickness of mortar between the tiles and the floor should be observed
If the bathroom has timber floor boards with a covering on top remove any plastic tiles or old carpets and lay thin plywood on top screwed down to the floorboards as a solid base for the new tiles (you omit this if the bathroom has a concrete floor) then either buy some floor tiles adhesive (for plastic tiles) or mix some tile cement (for ceramic tiles) spread the adhesive /tile cement on the floor base using a slotted trowel that applies the adhesive/cement in rows, then follow the adhesive/cement makers instructions to leave for a period - then lay the plastic tiles edges butting or ceramic tiles with plastic spacers to allow for the grout to be added between the tiles, start from the back working obviously towards the door. You can unscrew the toilet pan and slide tiles underneath likewise the bathtub panels remove to fit the tiles underneath (note you will have to trim the bathtub panel so it can be re fitted over the tiles, you may wish to tile up to baseboards (skirting UK) or remove them and tile underneath. As you can see this job is quite involved -do you have good diy skills? Otherwise leave to a pro to tile it for you maybe you can buy the tiles and he lays them?
Q: I went and removed 3 ft of tiles from the side of the bath tub starting at the bottom. The tiles had the cement on it so it came off the wall exposing the wood the to the house and i saw the water damage to the wood. How do i patch up the wall? Do I use plywood and than cement it and than add the new tiles?
If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you have water damage inside you wall. You first need to find out what caused that damage. If you repair the wall without finding the water leak, it will happen again. If the area was dry rot and it didn't sem like there was currently water there, then it is likely safe to fix. Carefully remove tiles until you no longer see any water damage to the wood. I'm not sure what wood is there. If its plywood, replace it with a like thickness (most of the time today, they use drywall, but its a special kind that is usually green that's made for bathrooms and moist areas). Before replacing the tiles, clean them up and remove any old grout from the edges. Be careful as the tile are very brittle and break easy. There are a number of bathroom tile type caulks that can adhere the tile to the wood. I suggest going to somewhere like Lowe's or Home Depot or a similar store and ask someone in the plumbing dept or the paint dept what kind of caulk to use to attach tile to wood. Apply the tile to the wall using the caulk. Now you need to re-grout the seams. Buy grout and apply it in all the seams. Let it completely dry (read the box but most say at least 24 to 48 hrs to completely cure) then after its cured, apply grout sealer over the top of the grout seams.
Q: My family and i are thinking about replacing our floor tile this year and putting in something nice. How difficult is it to take out the old tile. What would I do with the tile once it is pulled up? Order a construction dumpster? And do we have to pull up the base board?I have seen it done on DIY network, doesn‘t look that difficult and seems like we could save money. And any suggestions on good looking tile that we could get cheap, maybe an outlet store.What‘s the difficulty level: beginner, intermediate or expert.
If you do not plan on replacing the old baseboard with new, then you should gently remove it using a small pry bar and mallet. If you can't find the pry bar, a flat head screwdriver works alright.. Once you have pulled it away from the wall you might need to remove the nails to get it off without damage. If your tile has been on there since the beginning of time, you might have a little trouble removing it as back then the mastic used was quite different then what is used now. It really stuck! I am guessing you are talking about ceramic and not linoleum or vinyl tile. You can get a long handled scraper at just about any hardware store and they don't cost that much. That will save you allot of time. If you do not plan on saving the tiles, a 8 lb . sledge hammer will do the job of loosening the tiles from the floor but please make sure you wear eye protection. Then just scrape them up as you go along. If your tiles are the vinyl ,peel stick, or linoleum a good hot hair dryer works to soften the adhesive allowing you to scrape up the tiles. I'm sure a professional would recommend a heat gun though. I have removed and replaced both types and just to let you know it is not a easy or fun job. Wear rubber gloves if you can and keep a bottle of baby oil close by just in case you get the mastic on your hands.
Q: Do you seal only the grout or the whole tile and grout?
just grout them
Q: We currently have carpet throughout our house, but due to having dogs, we hate the carpet. While hardwood or laminate seems the logical choice, tile would hold up much better to their toe nails. My concern is how having tile throughout the entire house (even in the living room, computer room, bedrooms, etc) would look. I know it is done sometimes, but I just can't picture it in my mind. How do you feel about it? Would the tile (it would be very neutral in color) be okay through the entire house or should we go with laminate deal with the scratches when/if they happen?
Ok I would tile the whole house accept for the rooms that you would not want the dog in like your bed room, my parents have 4 dogs, 2 grey hounds and 2 smaller dogs and with the tile its a lot easier to maintain remember you don't have to keep it one color put borders in different tile borders to show distinctions between the rooms and your Life will be great. why bother with the scratches, and if its done right, making sure you seal the grout first, you will have no problems.
Q: I am going to lay bathroom floor tiles in my bathroom but I have some questions before I start. 1. Can I lay the new tiles over the existing floor, which is vinyl flooring? Or do I have to remove that first? 2. If I have to remove the vinyl flooring do I have to add cement backer board? Or can I lay the tile right over whatever is under the vinyl flooring? 3. I have trim along that floor that I will be re-attaching, do I lay the tile right up to the wall or do I put a space in between the wall and the edge tile? Do I then grout into that space between the wall and the edge tile?
you actually *can* install ceramic tile over vinyl flooring, if the vinyl is in good shape and not coming up or bubbling. you would need to use a mutliflex thinset instead of a standard thinset for the ceramic tiles to stick. now this only works if the vinyl is over concrete. if it's over wood, then an underlayment is needed. if the vinyl is in poor shape, pull it up. if in doubt as to it's quality, pull it up. 1/4 or 1/2 hardibacker or durarock are your options for your underlayment. use a multiflex thinset to adhere to the vinyl or wood subfloor and screw the board down every 6 inches. if your floor is a concrete slab don't bother with the underlayment; just tile directly over the concrete. leave a slight gap from your tile to your wall, then install your base and/or shoe molding. grouting the space between the tile and wall would be a waste of time and grout. don't bother; the base will cover it. i agree with the 1/8 grout joint. a much better look to it than a larger joint. keep in mind the thinset rules: a tile up to 12 requires a 3/8 notch of thinset, a tile 16 to 18 needs a 1/2 notch, and anything over 18 requires a 3/4 notch. this guarantees that there will be no thinset adhesian failures. good luck!
Q: i have just bought a house and my ceiling tiles needs cleaning. i would like to know if anyone out there knows what i can use to clean them. the ceiling tiles has dust but also has mildew on some of them. i don‘t want to replace them, i just want to clean them for now. thank you everyone.
very confusing step research in search engines like google that may help
Q: Should i tile right to the sub floor. Or do i leave room for a baseboard? or do i put the baseboards over top of the tile and glue them on?
You first need to place tile backer board on the sub floor. This step prevents the floor from flexing which will crack the tile in due time. But, to answer your question. Put the tile down first, then place the baseboards up against the wall over the tile. Set tiles 1/4 away from the walls. Do not leave any grout to harden which is not level to the tile near the walls or the baseboards will not lay flat against the tile. Good Luck
Q: Can I paint over the tiles? If so what kind of products would I use and how would I prep the tiles?
i wouldn't paint them . . .I used to have this shower remodel job for a college, we'd have to paint over the old shower tiles with the above mentioned 2-part epoxy paint...and it sucked. not only was it a hassle to sand those tiles, but to mix the paint and get it smooth and even...it's just very frustrating and i wouldn't wish it on my enemies. if the tiles are REAL BAD, then save up and just do a bathroom remodel...if not, then use other colors to accent the bathroom. blue and yellow go well togther, also blue and orange...or you could get a rich brown to go with it, it really depends on the blue and how bad it is. hope this helps good luck
Q: Im looking into renovating our kitchen and thought i would cut some costs with doing some renovating ourselves. Is tiling easy to do yourself, how is it done and what surfaces can they be laid on?Thanks
You call go to lowe's or home depot on certain saturdays and they have a tiling class. You can learn a lot there and they can answer any questions you may have and you will have some come up that you didn't even think about.And if you can find a tape or dvd on tiling it will be a great help. This is how I learned and I enjoy tiling.

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