Glass Mosaic MSC-564 2015 Hot Sale Design

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 m²

Supply Capability:: 20000 m²/month

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Our glass stick mosaic tile is the most popular kitchen backsplash decoration material

among customers. In the shape of long and short thin sticks arranged in staggered

rows, this kitchen glass mosaic tile is suitable for decorating the whole wall. Besides, it can also be cut into border

tiles as customer requires and the mosaic borders will go well with the wall tiles.

Item Name:	glass stick mosaic
Item No.:	MSC-564
Series:	Vicia cracca
Material:	glass
Chip Size:	multi size
Sheet Size:	298x268mm
Thickness:	8 mm
Joints:	2 mm
Packaging:	11 sheets / box
Coverage:	1 sqm. (10.76 sq.ft.) / box
N. Weight	16.5 kg/ box
G. Weight:	17 kg / box

Q: Our kitchen has vinyl tile squares from the 70‘s for the floor. Underneath that is terrazzo (sp?) and nothing else. They are proving to be a massive pain in the butt to remove so I was wondering if we even really need to. They are very thin and very stuck. Can we just skip tearing them out and go ahead with the new ceramic tile install?: No, you are asking for trouble to consider leaving the vinyl tiles. I might suggest that you get a heat gun or use a regular iron with a dampened towel to help remove the vinyl tiles first.

Q: The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!: This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.

Q: I am in the process of tiling my bathroom, now that I have the 12 X 12 tiles on the floor and nearly done with them, I need to do the walls behind the toilet sink and cabinet. My question is, how far do I have to move the toilet flange (pipe) forward so the new tiles will not interfere. The toilet sits right on the wall. I used 1/2 backerboard, and I am using a 4x4 tile and thinset to mix and hold it together.: If you removed the drywall and installed the cement board then add the thickness of the tile plus 1/4 inch for the thin set. If you put the cement board over the drywall then and in the 1/2 inch into your total. It's not a bad idea to give it a little extra room behind the toilet. You don't really want the tank right up against the tiles anyway. All it takes is somebody to lean back on that tank and crack a tile .Give it an extra 1/4 inch. Bottom line the toilet flange should be 12 inches from the finished wall by code. Don't forget to use a thicker wax ring or a flange extension when you reset that toilet to make up the difference of the cement board and tile.

Q: What is the standard water absorption of tiles?: According to China's national standards for testing tiles, tiles according to the different water absorption, divided into porcelain brick (water absorption E ≤ 0.5%), fine stoneware tile (water absorption 3% ≤ E ≤ 6%), stoneware brick (water absorption 6 % ≤ E ≤ 10%), ceramic brick (water absorption of 10% or more) and so on. The test method should be tested on the back of the brick body. The moisture absorption of the tiles is related to the breaking strength, abrasion resistance and gloss performance. Generally speaking, the lower the water absorption of tiles, the better the tiles, the higher the product strength, wear resistance and gloss performance is better, the product is not prone to cracking or peeling. And high water absorption of the tiles after the thermal expansion and contraction will lead to tile surface cracks and the overall tile peeling, especially in the choice of toilet paving tiles more attention to this problem. To determine the size of the water absorption also has a simple method, the water absorption rate, also known as seepage rate, the simplest test method is to drop some water on the tile to do the experiment, after a few minutes, wipe the tile surface of the water, if not left any Traces, to prove that the water absorption of tiles is very low. If you leave the water mark tiles discoloration, then the ceramic tile water absorption is higher.

Q: anyone know this kind of tile?How durable is it? is it suitable for wall or floor?: If its the honey or green onyx in the lower pictures, to answer your question, it is for wall application only, not durable enough for flooring. Expensive but can be used with other tile if you d like to make stripes and small designs. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: I have tiles in my house. The whole 1st story is tile. Their porcelain. My chihuahua stays downstairs all the time and I was wondering does the tile have any affect on her? The tiles get really cold.: Might be a little slippery and cold, just make sure she has some comfy things to lie on. I have only tile in the areas that my dogs are allowed to hang out in, generally they sleep on the throw rugs, but I know when they first come in and are hot, they will sprawl on the tile under an air conditioning vent. Personally, I can't stand carpet, especially not with dogs.

Q: I‘m going to install a porcelain tile floor. My question is when I install a tile up against a cabinet that people can see. Should I but the tile up against the cabinet or should I leave enough space to grout between the tile and the cabinet. Just wondering what the standard practice is , and what looks the best. Also I have a small crack in the concrete, which the tile company said it was so minor that not to worry about it. Although it caused a crack in my old tile that was originally installed. I would really like to prep the crack prior to installing the new tile. What would you recommend doing to prep the crack. Thanks: Install okorder / As far as looks of tile spacing, stay consistent. If you border uptight against one non-tile stuff, then do so against everything. Use either colored caulking or epoxy grout for corners. Cement based grout isn't flexible and will crack.

Q: Once I removed the old tiles is there anything else I should do before I lay the new ones?: It should be ok as long as you sweep it and mop it.

Q: Not sure it it‘s mold/mildew ot the sealer stripping off. I‘ve used Tilex but it didn‘t work. Even scrubbed it with a stiff brush. Anyone know what this film is and how to get it off?: Are these tiles applied directly to a concrete floor that sits on the ground? If so, it sounds like efflorescence, where salt moves from the ground into the floor and then through the tile appearing as a white film on the surface of the tile (it happens through basement walls and if bricks are placed on the ground). Scrubbing may not be enough. You may have to check at your local hardware store for a sealer for your tiles or a cleaner strong enough to prevent the film from forming again.

Q: Okay so i live in an apartment and i cant EVER get mant. out here to fix this... the stuff thats between the tiles is missing and it looks gross and then the white rubber stuff that sits between the tub and the tile is coming off in random places.... what is this stuff called and would i be able to fix this junk myself???The white stuff that connects the tubs looks like that white stuff they use to connect the base boards to the hardwood floor...: The material between the tiles is called grout. You will want to use unsanded grout. First clean the tiles very well, mix the grout with water to a paste like consistancy. You can also buy premixed grout, but more expensive. Use a rubber grout trowel to force this paste in between the tiles, holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Let dry for a few hours, and then use a damp sponge to wipe off the surface of the tiles. Finally, seal the grout lines with a grout sealer. Actually, this is an easy job for a DIYer. The white stuff that seals the tub to the wall is called silicone sealant. First remove the old silicone, and then clean the area. Then clean it again, and then clean it again, and finally, wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol. Did I mention you should clean the area? Silicone does not seal well to any greasy area. Soap scum is grease based. Next, take a caulking gun, load the caulk, snip off the tip, puncture the tube with a nail, and apply caulk to the seam. Don't worry if it looks messy. Once the bead of caulk is applied, use your wet finger to smooth it out the way you like it. Caulk can be cleaned up with water, as long as it hasn't dried. Let dry 24 hours, and you are in business. All the tools and materials I have mentioned can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. I figure you can do the whole project for less than $50.

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