• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238 System 2
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238 System 3
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238 System 4
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1152 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

600x600mm

Water Absorption Rate

Below 0.5%

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Usage

Floor and wall

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors

Delivery Time

15~20 days after 30% deposit received

 

Features:

 

l  Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

l  Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

l  Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

l  Material: glazed porcelain

l  Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

l  The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

l  Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.

l  Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

l  We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

l  We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

l  Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.

 

 

Q: What should you pay attention to when installing tiles?
Empty drums, shedding flatness after 3 days to see just finished shop looks like can not see
Q: I want to use the tiles for a back splash in the kitchen. Is there a reason I have to use the spacers? Why can‘t I put them where they are touching each other? I‘m not using them on a floor. I don‘t like the look of the space between the tiles.
I hate the look of having to clean grout myself but you need it for support durability. Best advice is don't use white grout with blue tiles(don't use a contrasting grout). Nowdays you can get grout in many colors so get grout the same color as your tile. Also you should use spacers for a professional appearance or it will turn out looking like a first timer did it. However, use the smallest spacers possible for the size tile your using. I did both of these things the grout blends so well it looks like one tile is just flowing into the next!
Q: My kitchen has a white ceramic tile floor. It never looks clean, every speck of dirt shows. Because we live in a slab home, the tiles are glued right to the concrete. I hate to think how much work it would be to remove them. I could tile over - but it would make the kitchen floor higher than the surrounding rooms. Is there any suitable product for changing the color of the tile in such a high traffic area?
There is no GOOD way to do this. And you are right in that tiling over tile is a bad idea. You could go over it with a product like DuraCeramic, which would only raise the floor level up a small amount, but be aware that anything you put over that surface will likely make the existing surface unusable forevermore and you might regret it someday. The real solution would be to demo the existing tile and install new tile.
Q: Earlier I asked, How to find a good tile? This is what I meant
Anything that is real ceramic tile is good. Think about texture, cleaning and what the room is used for when choosing. It usually runs from $1 to $8 a square foot depending on which you choose. If you are planning to do it yourself you will need the proper tools such as a tile cutter, grout, and a base flooring etc. This will cost you up to $300 for everything but would save lots of money on labor etc. Don't buy the cheapest tile cutter! This is one of those things that you get what you pay for. Hope this helps.
Q: Do I meet the edge of tiles with the edge of the actual OPENING/HOLE of an electrical outlet or the edge of the electrical outlet PLATE COVER?
To the edge of the box. You will need to bring the outlet out (by loosening the screws) a little bit, so you can get the plate back on.
Q: What is better tiles or carpet in a living room considering I have 3 kids ( 4 , 3 and 2 ) ? what about the kitchen?
I had a house that was ceramic tile through out-I loved it. You know when your tile is dirty and when it's clean its very clean. You'll be able to clean up spills without freakin. Plus you can use rugs and take them out and clean both sides when they are dirty. It's easy to switch out decor- and it always smells good. No lingering food smells. I really think you'd want to pick out a neutral natural looking color with some depth in it so keep the kid-o's from slipping, but when it's time for a new puppy or pet-no sweat-
Q: We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :)
Just did this recently. We used a half inch of high grade plywood for the base sheet, then on top of that a half inch sheet of backerboard. Adhere the plywood to the vanity with a liquid nails as well as actual nails. Adhere the backerboard to the plywood with thinset and hardibacker screws. Obviously you'll need to cut out the sinkholes in both. After that, you're ready to tile. Use the smallest groutlines as possible for a countertop, in my opinion. Be sure to seal the tile when you're done. I know how to tile, but I despise it (especially some of the intricate stuff involved in countertops), so I just hired the tiling done.
Q: The difference between tiles and tiles.
When firing two different temperatures, As the variety of tiles on the market now, businesses in order to reduce the cost of quality are mostly poor, so I personally think. Often the tiles on the market are stronger than the tiles.
Q: is it hard to do a tile back splash for someone that has no experience it is a small area in the kitchen
Oooh! Oooh! I saw something about this last weekend on the DIY channel, and I plan on doing it, myself, in our kitchen, too! I scribbled notes while I watched--here's what I've got: Measure the space for the backsplash. If you are tiling over an uneven surface (like over old tile) you will have to create a smooth surface over what you have. To do that, you will need to install some trim to the uneven surface of the wall for studding to provide a place to affix backer board, and then affix backer board over that trim. That will give you an even surface for your new tile. I don't have notes on thype of wood or measurements for that studding, but if you ask at your hardware store, which is what I will need to do, I'm sure they can guide on that. You fasten the studding to the wall along the top and the bottom of your area to be tiled, and then in between those top and bottom studs at intervals sufficient to support your backer board without buckling when you press on it. Maybe the hardware store can advise on that distance, or you can just test it as you go. You fasten the studs to the wall with a nail gun, and then the backer board to the studs with a nail gun. Now you've got a new surface. Next, spread your plaster onto the backer board. I'm assuming you are buying your new tiles in sheets. Set your sheets of tile onto the plaster (don't remove the fronting paper from the tiles yet), starting in the center/bottom and working out, and up. When the tile is set, use a damp sponge to wet the fronting paper and peel that off gently. Now mix your grout, and apply that over the tile with a trowel. Wipe excess group from the tile faces, but be sure not to wipe away from between the tiles. You are finished! Luckily, the space for my backsplash is a rectangle without any oddly shaped areas besides that. I know I can do this, with some advice from the people at my hardware store. Hey: We can DO this!!!! Good luck!
Q: I would appreciate a double check on this problem. I believe I‘ve saved myself a lot of cutting, but I just want to make sure. My shower is 59 inches wide. My tile is 4.25 inches wide and tall. (square)My spacers are .25 inches wide. The middle point of my shower 29.5 inches. If I move my center line to the right or left by 2 and 1/8 inches I should be able to cover the entire width with 13 tile IF I allow for a 1/8th inch addition in each corner. Is this correct?
Ok so ignore your center line it does not matter here your tiles are 4.25, your grout lines are .25 and you are trying to get the tile and grout lines into a space that is 59 so if you take 13 tiles you get 55.25 for those tiles you will have 12 standard .25 grout lines totaling 3 giving you a total of 58.25 now from here what I would do instead of adding grout line and caulking on each end is form an L with the next wall (assuming you have 3 walls to tile to enclose the shower) because a standard wall tile is about .25 thick this would give you an 1/8 bead of caulk in each corner. Make sense?

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