• Glass Mosaic MSC-566  2015 Hot Sale Design System 1
Glass Mosaic MSC-566  2015 Hot Sale Design

Glass Mosaic MSC-566 2015 Hot Sale Design

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m²
Supply Capability:
20000 m²/month

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Our glass stick mosaic tile is the most popular kitchen backsplash decoration material

among customers. In the shape of long and short thin sticks arranged in staggered

rows, this kitchen glass mosaic tile is suitable for decorating the whole wall. Besides, it can also be cut into border

tiles as customer requires and the mosaic borders will go well with the wall tiles.

 

 

 

Item Name:

glass stick mosaic

 

Item No.:

MSC-566

Series:

Vicia cracca

Material:

glass

Chip Size:

multi size

Sheet Size:

298x268mm

Thickness:

8 mm

Joints:

2 mm

Packaging:

11 sheets / box

Coverage:

1 sqm. (10.76 sq.ft.) / box

N. Weight

16.5 kg/ box

G. Weight:

17 kg / box

 

Q: rented an apartment about 1 year ago.My landlord put a brand new bathroom in including ceramic floor tiles,I just noticed cracks in 6 or 7 of the tiles but I do not remember doing any damage that would cause this.The only thing I did was flood the bathroom but mopped it up right away and the floor is waterproof anyway.The landlord said those tiles where very expensive and said they should last at least 10 years before they crack,and now she is taking the cost of the tiles including installation cost out of my security deposit.
Yup she crayz ! Bad tile guy ! I don't know what cause there lot he could of done to mess it up or the framers ,plumers, there not any thing u did I'm sure of that ! Well if u can't get out of it the good new It's a small bath sounds like an u could do a better job for not that much . Well not enuff thin set ,he used mastic, plumer cut jous, bad framing, not ataching to jous, dry mixed thin set , dust on tiles, wet tiles when installing , I'm sure there's more , not ur fault!
Q: It‘s been a while since I have done tile, but I remember we used to use sheetrock to cover the floor or for back splash wall, however I don‘t remember what it was used for. Is there special cases when you need to use it or do I need to use it every time? What is the purpose to use the sheetrock?Please help. Thanks.
It may have been sheetrock that you remember but more than likely it was some type of special backer product that resembled Sheetrock but was made specifically for use under tile. There are several types available at Lowe's like hardibacker or durarock. Both of these products are designed to be placed on the surface to be tiled before the tile is applied and act to stiffen the substrate. In other words they make the surface that the tile goes onto into one big solid piece as opposed to several sheets of plywood. The benefit of this is that is keeps the tiles from moving in relation to each other which will cause the grout lines in between them to crack and gap. These products are generally put down, when tiling floors, on top of a layer of mortar same as you spread mortar to hold the tiles down. Ans then these backer boards are nailed down with roofing nails and the joints are mortared and usually taped like drywall joints are. Then more mortar is spread on top of these boards and the tile is set into this mortar. Floors generally use the 1/4 thick backer board and when applying on walls the 1/2 backer is used. Just nail to the studs and paint with a waterproofing paint then mortar and apply tiles. Good Luck.
Q: My kitchen has ceramic tile already installed and I despise it and have for years. I do not want to put a big investment into this house as I do not plan on living there for much over 2 more years. I just want to cover it up and make it look better. This site seems pretty legit and only deals with self stick tile. Anyone know of pros or cons? Have any suggestions?
Cons would be that it costs close to $10 a square foot. I also doubt that it looks as good in person as the site claims. I've installed a lot of surface coverings, including tile-textured vinyl wallpaper and a variety of peel and stick material and they rarely look that convincing when they are right under your nose, as a countertop backsplash would be. That's a lot of money for a coverup job, And you don't say where the tile is installed. Walls? Countertop? Floors? That stickandgo is strictly for walls, not any area that would have moisture lying on it or traffic. If it is just your walls it would be a lot cheaper just to hire someone to tear off the ceramic tile and put up something different. It only cost me $6 a square foot for labor and $3 for material to have a real ceramic subway tile back splash installed in my kitchen last year. It would be even less if you did it yourself. If you are thinking of covering a floor, look at the Trafficmaster Allure material at Home Depot -- excellent product and about $2 a square foot. Installs like a dream, completely waterproof, can go over an uneven surface, adheres to itself, not what is behind it (it floats), easy to remove later, and both the tile and wood versions look and feel absolutely real. We did my friend's large bathroom with it in less than 4 hours last winter and it looks like a hardwood floor and holds up to anything. I used the slate-look tiles in my breakfast room of my previous house and everyone who saw it thought it was real stone. If it's your countertops, it is easy and cheap to replace countertops with new laminate and the new laminates are not your Grandma's formica -- many look like high-end granite and even metals.
Q: I need tips on how to install tiles around bathroom walls. I have the walls up and taped. Now what??? I leveled and drew a line under the window cell horizontal and vertical. 1) Do I start tiling from the tub up?2) How do I seal - or do I have to seal the tiles (Ceramic tiles 4x4)?3) What type of sealer should I use? Please give me a name that I can easily find @HD or loews.
My very strong opinion on this matter is to go to Lowe's or HD during a weekday morning, when they're not too busy. Get a handy-dandy little book so you have it with you as you go. Ask the cute lil helper at the store to help you with all you will need. Yes, you will need to seal the grout - they can find the best sealer, the best grout, the whole nine yards. Good luck on your project
Q: My husband and I are going to try tiling the kitchen floor ourselves. Can someone please give me step by step instructions on how it should be done and also waht materials we will need. Also any pointers or tips are really apperciated. FYI: We will be using 18 inch porcilin tile.
the 1st factor is i'd desire to understand is this laminate glue or snap at the same time (do you desire to maintain this floor ?) in case you donot care that's a thank you to eliminate your laminate first of all determine which way the laminate is started out this provides you with a solid beginning factor. this would desire to easily fold up ward ____/ like that once you start up up you will desire to have the capacity to soak up thold laminate in one million hour. determine you eliminate all your wall base first., that's what holds down the laminate. After it is up you will would desire to confirm what style of underlayment is on the subfloor. the main person-friendly is durock in case you're putting down ceramic . despite if that's vinyl tiles then you would desire to apply luan (one million/4 thick use the comparable thickness for the durock). you will desire to degree you length and width of the floor magnificent chalk lines to confirm the place your beginning factor is ( you do this with the two style of floor).in case you like extra preparation e mailme.
Q: I have old, crumbly tile as a subfloor in my apartment. I recently put in vinyl flooring when I took my carpeting out. It now looks as if this tile (wood-like vinyl planks) are taking the shape of the subfloor, which was not perfectly even. I don‘t like that I see shadows of peaks and valleys in the new flooring in certain light. It also doesn‘t feel even when I walk on it barefoot, but I‘m extremely particular.1. Should a coating have been applied to even-out the old tile BEFORE the vinyl flooing was installed? (the company didn‘t want to take these up as they felt it was asbestos. the worker who installed the new floor said the old floor did not need a coating)2. Was this vinyl tile installed correctly?3. If it wasn‘t installed correctly, could this affect the vinyl tile/planks over time -- could it warp, perhaps? 4. What do I do if it was installed incorrectly and the company does not do anything about it without a fee?? (There‘s a warantee on the floor IF it was installed correctly only)
The new vinyl floor should only have been applied to a good, sound and stable substrate. If the tiles underneath were chipping, flaking, bubbling or falling apart there is no way the new flooring should have been applied. Most asbestos tile comes up easily and requires basic Personal Protective Equipment. Not like asbestos pipe installation...the nasty stuff. Another option is to remove the loose tile and fill with a latex floor patch...not the best option, but OK for most. A better option is a 1/4 plywood underlayment on top of the tile and under the new vinyl. You still need to remove lose or bad tile and level uneven areas, but the new plywood underlayment will give you a much more stable surface. You'll need to prime the plywood with a floor primer and also consider a new threshold to account for the elevation difference.
Q: I have travertine tile in my bathroom that apparently wasn‘t sealed properly. Now it has water stains that are visible when viewed from an angle. It‘s ugly and I can‘t get rid of them. Any suggestions?
Try steam cleaning
Q: i have just put down adhesive floor tiles in my bathroom, do i now need to use an extra sealant/pvc wash to seal the joins between the tiles as my kids enjoy splashing in the bath and i dont want the floor ( pvc sealed boards ) to lift if water gets in the gaps?
Vinyl tiles are not a very good flooring for bathrooms. Sheet vinyl is 100 times better. I'd replace them totally, its better to do that, than get warped floor boards and a stained ceiling. Sorry to say this, but I'm a professional floor layer and I fit these tiles aswell as sheet vinyl, and I advise customers against the tiles, their cheap and easy to install, but they are a mediocre flooring.
Q: Is there a way to paint dark green tiles? I also want to paint my white cabinets- what should I be aware of (sanding, etc) Anything else I need to know? Thanks!
With your tiles if you want to paint them darker then yes you can buy specific tile paint, which involves using a primer first then the paint, but to go lighter i think u may struggle as covering any dark colour and going lighter is tough. As for your cabinets, depends what they are made of, if the r solid wood a light sanding and primer should suffice, if they have laminate fronts(shiny) i wouldn't bother trying to paint them, just buy new fronts, its often as cheap as buying all the paints and primers etc!
Q: I am currently removing old cork tiles from the floor of my house. They are stuck down to the cement and as I‘m chiselling them up I‘m being left with a lot of glue residue with fragments of the cork too. Any tips on easy removal of the old tiles, but more importantly removing the glue? We are replacing them with new ceramic floor tiles. I was thinking maybe a heat gun and a scraper to clean it up but Dad has suggested a grinder! Any experiences with fast and easy removal of residue? I‘ve still got a room of cork to remove so if there‘s a better way than hammer and chisel I‘d love to hear about it!
Just start scrapping it all off and patch the drywall after with drywall compound....then sand and paint....easy job

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