Fume Silica with Low Permeability
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 Metric Tons m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 3600 Metric Tons per Month m.t./month
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1.Microsilica 85%-98%
2.High fluidity
3.Low permeability
4.Meets the requirements of ASTM C-1240
Instruction
*Microsilica , also called silica fume or micro silica, is a byproduct of producing silicon metal or ferrosilicon alloys.
*Silicon metal and alloys are produced in electric furnaces. The raw materials are quartz, coal, and woodchips.
*The smoke that results from furnace operation is collected and sold as silica fume, rather than being land filled.
*Silica fume consists primarily of amorphous (non-crystalline) silicon dioxide (SiO2), its average granule diameter is 0.15~0.20 µm,specific surface area is 15000~20000 m2/kg, and it has extremely strong surface active.
*Microsilica can be used in a variety of cementation products, such as concrete, grouts, and mortars as well as elastomeric, polymer, refractory, ceramic and rubber applications.
*HS No.: 28112200 China Origin, microsilica meets the requirements of ASTM C-1240.
*Microsilica CAS #: 69012-64-2
Main function
*Very low permeability to chloride and water intrusion.
*Extremely high electrical resistivity (20 to 100 times greater than ordinary concrete).
*Increased abrasion resistance on decks, floors, highways and marine structures.
*Superior resistance to chemical attack from chlorides, acids, nitrates and sulfates.
Specification of Microsilica
Index items | Standard Value |
SiO2(Silicon Dioxide) | Min. 97.0% |
C(Carbon) | Max. 0.7% |
Fe2O3 (Iron Oxide) | Max. 0.1% |
Al2O3(Aluminium Oxide) | Max. 0.3% |
CaO(Calcium Dioxide) | Max. 0.3% |
MgO(Magnesium Dioxide) | Max. 0.2% |
K2O(Potassium Dioxide) | Max. 0.3% |
Na2O(Sodium Dioxide) | Max. 0.2% |
P2O5(Phosphorus Pentoxide) | Max. 0.1% |
SO3(Sulphur Trioxide) | Max. 0.2% |
Cl (Chloride) | Max. 0.1% |
Moisture Content(H2O ) | Max. 0.5% |
Loss on Ignition(L.O.I) | Max. 0.5% |
Percent Retained On 45μm (325 sieve) | Max. 0.5% |
Bulk Density | 250-300kg/m3 and 450-600kg/ m3 |
Micro-Silica Fume company
We are willing to take a sincere attitude and cooperation with you.
(1) Quality
We have our own test lab in factory and supply stable and reliable microsilica to our customers.
(2) Price
(3) Convenient
Delivery is fast and easy.
(4) Service
Our sales groups are positive attitude, and 24 hours feedback service to ensure the service is good.
- Q: This pipe is located almost underground. Due to the blockage the water from the terrace instead flowing to the underground main pipe flows out at the first floor opening in the balcony. The pipe is a direct pipe from the terrace to the ground with a break at the balcony, but due to the blockage at the end overflowed water fills the balcony. Hence it starts entering the rooms at the first floor. Our house is made of bricks and cement, it is situated in Pakistan. Problems of overflowing increase durng the rain( Monsoon) season.
- Acid will 'eat' cement, but not PVC. it takes time though. You might need to power flush the sand that will be left behind.
- Q: I would like to close up my a/c for winter. I have the insulation and plastic but do not know how to attach it to my cement walls. Cellophane tape, duct tape, electric tape and masking tape have all proved to fail (and pretty quickly too). Any suggestions from you wonderful Yahoo people? I would be grateful.
- If the cement is dry, dry brush it briskly and apply a 2 strip of double sided tape like they use for carpets. The other choice is to use that Velcro tape. It comes in a roll in a dispenser. It has tremendous holding power. A third choice would be to drill some 3/16 plastic plug holes, then drill a matching piece of 1x2. The 1x2's will hold the plastic in place when you screw the wood to the cement wall. Hope this helps.
- Q: There just little pieces of cement no bigger then a nickel and it made the glass look all foggy and nasty and I was wondering if there like a chemical compound or something I can use to break it down. If there is, is there anyway you can make it at home using household products? Please and Thank You
- How To Break Cement
- Q: I have a walk-in shower (no door) and was planning on using cement board for the wall floor. Do i have to use a vapour barrier behind the cement board on the would frame? If so, what kind? Simply lay the tile on the board (wall floor) with thinset? What kind of thinset? Any help would be appreciated! Thx
- More info is needed. What is on the floor of the shower now? A vapor barrier is needed for and insulated exterior wall. I use 15lb felt but 6mm poly can be used also. Insulation-vapor barrier-cement board with edges and corners taped with cement board fiberglass tape and thinset. Versabond modified thinset.
- Q: my dad took the vinyl tile off our garageand he wants to spread cement over the garage floorwhat type of cement would stick to the floor as well as tile glue so the cement would stck forever
- You should really try to get that glue up. The problem is going to be if it's like a mastic (soft and sticky) because that going to take a chemical stripper like Xylene or at least lacquer thinner. Go airflow and at least a half mask with chemical cartridges are necessary. A full mask and personal air supply is really a much better way to go. What ever you put down over that tile adhesive is only going to be as good as that tile adhesive. If you try to put down something hard and brittle like a thin layered cement (Sakrete's Top Bond) now you have something brittle over something soft what do you think is going to happen? You could try putting something soft over it like a urethane rubber but again if the old adhesive fails you spent a lot of time money on Urethane. If the heavy adhesive is off you can try renting a diamond grinder but you have to be careful these are not toys and you can do more damage than good if you don't think you can run it properly... Your cheapest way out may be to just put more tile down. If you like send my some pictures of the floor and I'll try to help... This is my profession.
- Q: over the years the cement floor has settled and broken at the opening of the overhead door. can someone tell me the right way to do the repairs, or send me to a site that i could get some directions. one of my main concerns is the side jams of the doorway. can you fill the level of cement above the boards? Thanks for your help.
- Best to have the concrete removed and replaces, but this we be costly. answerman3 answer is the cheaper way to go, but you should saw or grind the cracks before filling.
- Q: Im trying to level my floor with self levelling cement. I know its supposed to be runny but i may have put too much water on it. Unfortunately i already dumped it on the floor. Will it eventually dry up.
- If you added too much it will flake when you step on it. If this is the case it won't be any fun to remove, but it will come up easy and you can start again.
- Q: Is the cement industry in the stock a separate plate? Or part of the other plate?
- Now can be considered a sub-section, there are several leading enterprises
- Q: .. blems?The house we are considering buying is about $125,000.00 It has 4 bdrms 1 bath built in 1910. 2,330 sqf. The basement has crumbling cement in the half and dark paneling in the other half. Those are the only problems with the house. are these doable to fix? tear down the cement and re cement, is it expensive, or painting or putting dry wall over the paneling. what do you think?
- Cement should have an indeterminate life; it shouldn't, under normal conditions, be falling apart after 100 years. Unless, of course, it is bulging because the earth behind it is pushing on it, or because it is now, or has previously, gotten wet. Unless you understand WHY the cement is crumbling, I wouldn't buy the house. (If you learn that there was a leak 40 years ago but it has since been plugged and the area is dry, then OK, but if it's still damp and crumbling, well, that's a problem.) The paneling question is dependent on whether the paneling was nailed or glued, and how long ago. If it was nailed, and is over drywall, no problem. If it was glued to drywall, then it's a major hassle to remove. If it was nailed to studs, then it's relatively simple to remove ... but you'll have to re-wall the basement. You can put drywall over paneling, but you need to be quite sure that the walls themselves are flat. And in all honesty, you'll be nailing the drywall through the paneling to the studs, and that's a lot more nailing effort. Finally, one bathroom for 4 bedrooms seems undesirable. You will regret not having a 2nd or 3rd bathroom. I would rethink this.
- Q: I want to re-do the tile that surrounds my tub walls because the old tile has water damage and rotted. I was wondering which type of tile cement backer board is better ? hardiebacker cement board or durock cement board ? and should I install a vapor barrier between the studs and backer board... I seem to get mixed opinions on that ?
- Oh, installing a vapor barrier behind the cement board is absolutely necessary. Tile with grout isn't waterproof at all, and you want to keep that moisture out of the wall. Some people even go beyond asphalt paper and insist on using a nail-hole sealing material like bituthane because they are that concerned about the moisture making its way through. Durock is better for walls that will be under constant barrage from water like a shower because it acts more like the troweled-on mortar a professional tile guy would use. Being more purely cement, it will be less likely to expand and contract than the hardi-backer, which contains more fiber.
1. Manufacturer Overview
| Location | Luoyang, Henan, China (Mainland) |
| Year Established | 2011 |
| Annual Output Value | US$2.5 Million - US$5 Million |
| Main Markets | North America; South America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Oceania; Mid East; Eastern Asia |
| Company Certifications | ISO 9001:2008 |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
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3. Manufacturer Capability
| a) Trade Capacity | |
| Nearest Port | |
| Export Percentage | 31% - 40% |
| No.of Employees in Trade Department | |
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Fume Silica with Low Permeability
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 Metric Tons m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 3600 Metric Tons per Month m.t./month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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