• Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China System 1
  • Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China System 2
Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1324.8
Supply Capability:
1324800 m²/month

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 Advantages of  Full Polished Porcelain Tile:

 

The porcelain polished floor tiles are non-slip and easy clean and with natural veins.

The porcelain polished tiles are hardness, which are resistant to acid and alkali, waterproof, wear resistance, dirt resistacne.

Good for indoor wall and floor decorations. Elegance, promote your decorate style. 

The porcelain polished tiles with high quality are ideal for creating a beautiful feel in Hotel, House, Supermarket, Shopping Mall, etc

The porcelain polished tiles ,water absorption rate :<0.1%.< span="">

Many colors can be chosen.

The porceline tiles have 600*600,800*800 sizes, special sizes available according to request.

CE: GB/T19001-2008¬¬—ISO9001:2008 

This is the best tile for hotel lobby flooring, airport, big project etc..

We have many different color and different design in this series. Please kindly check our website.

It's good for house flooring, super market, shopping mall, warehouse flooring, etc..

Our price is very competitive, and very good quality.

We have many certificates of our tiles

 

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

Australasia

Central/South America

Eastern Europe

Mid East/Africa

North America

Western Europe

 

 

Product Pictures :

 

 

 

 

 

Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

Full Polished Porcelain Tiles From China

 

 

 FAQ:

1.  Why Us: 
     More than 20 years tile exporting experience, RMB 200 million sales every year.
     More than 20 years tile factory running-well management experience.
     Excellent quality and Competitive price, OEM is available.
     Widely professional exporting experience all over the world.

 2.   What is the trade terms:

       Payment: T/T 50% in advance, balance against copy of T/T, L/C etc.

 3.   What is the delivery time

      15- 20 after deposit paid

 4.  Can you provide the samples to check?

      We can provide the clients free samples.

 

 

Q: Dear Sir/Madami have question regarding installing tiles 30*30cm*2.5cm thick for hall and rooms my question is whats the min. and Max. cement mortar must be placed under neath tiles (i.e bond coat in between concrete slab and tile )please advice and thank for help and appreciated
If you're using ceramic tiles (very regular size and relatively smooth/even back), use a 1/4 square notched trowel, held somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees (vertical). If you're using natural stone tiles (e.g. granite, marble, slate), go for 3/8 square notched trowel and back-butter the tiles. Make sure the concrete slab is clean, sound, free of cracks and level before you start and follow the instructions for your thinset. You'll likely want to use a modified thinset which will help bond to the concrete better. If you have any doubts about the stability of your slab, consider installing an isolation membrane between the tile and slab. Schluter's Ditra system is the best of the breed for this. If you use an isolation membrane, use unmodified thinset (instead of modified).
Q: We have a big problem with our tiles in our bathroom, they wont stick.We have painted the floor with the pva. used (waterproof athesive) don‘t know if thats the correct name for it. my boyfriend has let his dad do the tiling as he knows how to do it. i told him to get a profesionals. but he wants he‘s dad. so now we have been having this problem. if any one knows what should we do or use different glue or something, that would really help., thanx
First off, PVA glue is a BIG NO NO! it is a craft glue and should never be used for installing any kind of tile unless its in a doll house! The glue will not stick to the tiles and will come up soon after you walk on them!!! Stick your finger in that glue and wait for it to dry, You will be able to peel it off and almost have the same shape of your finger! Pretty cool but not good for tile installation! What kind of tiles are they? Ceramic or stone? You should be using thinset to install the tile! VCT tile? you should be using VCT contact cement/glue! Remove the tiles, Peel any Glue off the tile and floor (should be very easy to do) and use the proper adhesive for the tile you have!
Q: Is there any one who have knowledge about Ceremic tiles? plz suggest me.
What okorder / We have professional tile fixers, tile distributors, technical advisors and more, to answer whatever questions you might have.
Q: tiles to be applied in tub surround and ceiling
www.okorder /... The 2nd link has info regarding installing glass tiles aroun d a tub. Have fun with this.
Q: the tiles are laid down using thinset cement. Mastic not used.
After installing,,,and removing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, I suggest what the others have. Accept that the job will cause loss. It should be pretty obvious why, and I'll give you an abstract example. Once upon a time postage stamps needed to be moistened to stick. If you felt like you wanted to retrieve the stamp and just attempted pulling a dried stamp from an envelope your success rate would be minimal. The difference in this analogy and your situation is that you can't separate tile from mortar, from the sub floor by steaming and unless you flood the area for a good length of time the mortar won't separate either. An even more valid concern is,,, even if you managed some intact tile, you'd have to grind or chip the mortar from the unfinished side, possibly damaging or breaking those tiles you so wanted to save. No offense at all but tile is relatively inexpensive, but sadly rarely able to be matched over any long time span. Any tile job I've ever done includes no less than 3 extra cases of tile, over and above what I consider might be needed in 10 to 15% waste. Certainly if the tiles were expensive, rare, imported one of a kind, decorative, I understand perhaps wanting to salvage them, but you don't state the WHY of your Q, so I can't truly know. Steven Wolf (The Rev.)
Q: Our house was built in 1925. My husband is removing our bathroom floor tiles that haven‘t been touched since then...we had only vinyl tiles on top of the old. He discovered these tiles are extremely difficult to take out they are very hard tiles under the vinyl we have now. Then when he tried to remove the hard tiles he had to remove concrete like stuff and sand like stuff. It‘s been one hell of a job just to remove everything. He went down to the foundation of the house! I just started worrying now about asbestos. I remember how old homes have them. Is it possible there is asbestos in these? There is a lot of dust in the house because of the removal process. Anyone know? I have two small kids and I‘m petrified. I‘ve heard of vinyl tiles having them, but what about the other stuff in our floors?
Old tile can have asbestos. The ONLY way to know is to take a piece of each with glue/mastic on the back to a local lab to have it tested. You can not determine absolutely or not if asbestos is present by size, color, or texture. If he has already thrown it away, all you can do is wet clean the entire area and move on. If you can afford it, hiring an asbestos removal company to do it would be better or hire an asbestos consultant to checkk the area.
Q: What is the best thickness of the tile?
In Wuhan decoration online network looked at: tiles are generally divided into polished tiles, antique tiles, tiles three categories. Each type according to the size of the size of the thickness of the thickness are not the same, the general 800 * 800 polished tiles in the 9mm - 12mm or so, Seiko jade in the 15--18mm or so; tiles 300 * 450,300 * 600 in general 7-10mm or so; antique brick and polished tile thickness difference is not much, each manufacturer's specific brick thickness is not the same.
Q: we‘ve moved into a 1930s flat with those old bakelite tiles, i think they‘re caller marley tiles. does anyone know a good way to get paint off them, and how to get them looking shiney and new again.cheers!
The one thing you do not want to do is use any harsh or abrasive cleanser on them. If they are real bakelite then they can lose their gloss and can be ruined. First try a bit of liquid laundry soap and warm water on a terry washcloth or small towel and dab or blot it on the spots. As the warm water and soap sit on the paint it will soften enough to scrape off with your fingernail or a popsicle stick. Always try any cleaning on a tile that is not seen readily, like under the sink if available, to insure that the finish does not get damaged. I have never known tiles to be made of bakelite but plastic was used extensively up to the 1970's and it can be cleaned with mineral spirits if necessary. If the soap and water do not work try mineral spirits, (also known as paint thinner and/or turpentine) on a small area of the tiles. You can try the fingernail scraping method first and some of the paint may come off straight away if it is latex and not too thick. If you get all the paint off you can shine them with carnuba wax, but try the wax on a hidden tile to make sure it does not have a reaction with bakelite. Best of luck.
Q: I‘m looking to replace a ceramic tile floor in my kitchen with a different style ceramic tile. The contractor says I have two options. He can either lay the new ceramic tile on the old, which will be cheaper than bringing up the old tile but then the floor will be raised 1 to 1 1/2 above current level. Or, he can take up the old ceramic tile but then he‘d have to remove the old layer of plywood and put down a new layer, which will be more labor-intensive and expensive. Is there any other issues regarding these two scenarios that I should take into account?
Best to rip it out and start new. And start with a new sub floor made for and the proper thickness for tile.. NEVER, EVER use a thin 1/4 luan or ply wood.. This is totally inadequate for tile and goes against all tile hand book guides such as the ATC and TCA guide book.Minimum substrate thickness for tile is 1 1/4 not the 1 as suggested.Thus you must use 1/2 board or backer board ( properly installed) to meet minimum standards for stability for tile.There are other methods to install but this is very common way. Going over the old with new tile is a possible option but tile setter need to know what their doing. Thus raising floor only thickness of the tile and thin set. I d never go over it raising it that much. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: A rectangular area can be completely tiled with 200 square tiles. If the side length of each tile was increased by 1 cm, it would take only 128 tiles to tile the area. Find the side length of each tile.
let the length of square tiles be x. thus, 200*x^2=128(x+1)^2 =&gt;25x^2=16x^2+16+32x =&gt;9x^2-32x-16=0 =&gt;(9x+4)(x-4)=0 =&gt;x=4 (answer)

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