• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245 is one of the most popular color of Full Polished Glazed Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

The polished porcelain tile is widely used for interior houseflooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the naturalstone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decorationproceeding.

Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beautyvivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd productionbased on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better supporton payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict productionprocedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as whitedegree.

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6BB245


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs. 



Q: I heard that ceramic tiles absorb water and we have ceramic tile in the downstairs bedroom. After I wash the tile floor how long do I wait until I can move our dressers and furniture back on the tile? Because once I bring in the dressers I don‘t think the tiles will have a chance to dry because it is fully covered by the dressers, right?
Natural okorder /
Q: My wife sent me to pick up some used floor tile. It still has the stuff (plaster? grout? whatever?) on the back of the tile. Can this be reused? Do I have to get the old stuff off? It is on there pretty uniformly.
Yes it can be re-used, and thin set, or latex based mortars can be removed,,,with caution. I'm doing remediations constantly at one job site in a building prone to flooding. I have an ongoing part time career with 11,000 sq. ft. of tile.The tile used 2 years ago is no longer in stock, but continues to POP due to ground level water seepage. I use a Diag. Grinder, with a tile cutting blade, cut out grout, lift the tile, flip it, grind down the thinset to a reasonable level, and re-install. The bad news is the job is tedious. The good news is that the job is tedious,,, smiles. It saves the current floor however. Certainly, aside from safety precautions one might expect, the tile is fragile as well, and unless you have more, than you will use in this purchase which I always manage anyway, on a job site, by no less than 10% for waste, etc, You may find that treating the old tile as if it was a fresh egg is your best way to proceed. Steven Wolf
Q: Just started tiling my tub surround and I have two very similar layouts graphed up. The actual colors of the tile and listello will be different than the ones shown in the pictures, so don‘t look at the computerized colors since they aren‘t accurate. The layout however, is pretty darn close to what I am planning on doing.
In any tile job, if it doesn't end at a wall you should use a cap tile like in the first picture or a bullnose, whichever fits your particular tile layout. The both have one rounded edge that dies down to the adjoining wall and finishes the job off. If you just leave the tile itself the only option to finish off the tile edge is to lay grout up to it, caulk it, or run some kind of molding up the edge. It costs more to run the cap tile, but in the long run the expense of tiling the wall supports the added expense of cap.
Q: a few tiles are cracked near the sink. How can i fix it temporarily ( is it worth it?) or should i replace the tiles or the whole thing? how would i go about doing that?
If you can find the same tile, or even very similar tile, you should take up the exising tile and replace it with new ones. You will need to start by removing the grout between the tiles. You can buy a grout removal tool at most hardware stores, but it is 10 times easier if you have a rotary tool like a dremel or rotozip. With the grout near the effected tiles removed, you can use a rigid putty knife to pry the damaged tiles off the countertop surface. You may need to use a hammer to tap the tip of the putty knife under the broken tiles. Try not to touch undamaged tiles! Once the tiles are out, use the same putty knife (and hammer if necessary) to remove all or most of the mortar and grout from the exposed surface. You will need to mix new thinset or mortar to lay the new tile in. Lowes and Home Depot usually sell thinset and grout in smaller packages for small jobs or repair work. If the tiles are small, you will not be able to properly spread the mortar. Put a dollop of mortar in the center of where each tile should go and press the tile ontop of it to spread the mortar around. If it leaks out the side and comes up to the surface of the tile, make sure to clean it up before it dries. Once the new tiles are in place, let the mortar dry for a few hours (longer if it is humid). You can then mix the grout and spread it in the gaps near the new tile. Let the grout dry for about 10 or 15 minutes and then wipe the tiles clean and smooth the new grout with a damp sponge. The mortar and grout can be mixed with just water, especially for such a small job. Some stores might try to get you to buy the liquid additives for each. These are designed to keep the mortar and grout pliable for longer periods of time and are not necesssary for small jobs. Good Luck. If you need more info on a given step just say so.
Q: The tile in my shower floor got torn apart
You will have to chip out the damaged ones and replace them. After you grout be sure to apply a grout sealer. These links will give you some guidelines.
Q: Anyone know how much I should expect to pay to have a professional install ceramic tile flooring? The prep work has been done. The tile is 12 x 12, there‘s about 90 sq ft of floor (concrete... sealed). I‘ve purchased the materials (tile, thinset, grout). I just want to know how much to expect to pay for labor. Is $5.00 per sq ft. too much? That‘s the quote I was given. Thanks for any help.
Do it yourself. It's easy. You'll have to buy another $70 worth of stuff at Lowes. Plus, a $90 wet saw (if you have complicated corner cuts). But then you'll know how to do it and have the tools to do it next time. Go for it !
Q: The shiny surface ceramic tile is set unto a cement slab - it has been there 15 years or more with no cracks. Do I need to rough up the surface before I set the tile- if so how? I have tried sanding it (60 grit), wire brushing it - there is no effect on the surface. Also I live in a small town - we do have a Home Depot - do they sell a good bonding agent? If so what? Thank-you for your answer!
To go over tile I ve used both Flex Bond and VesaBond thinset made by Custom Building products, Both are usually sold at Home Depot.. One suggestion when tiling over tile, allow a few extra days drying time before any foot traffic on the new tile . Moisture has no where to go when doing this and extra drying time IS required. Do NOT add a latex additive if you use a polymer type thin set, only a latexed based thin set.. No sanding is generally needed, just a clean , oil and grease free tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Hello. To clean a fridge water was poured on the lower section . The water spilled out onto the floor where white tiles are. I left for a minute and came back and saw that the white tiles had grey blotches or spots. What happened, and how can I cure this?
Tile won t stain under normal circumstances so I suspect the glaze is a bit worn off rt in front of the fridge.. That can be a wet spot that will dry eventually or stain the tile body in which you have no choice but to r and r the tile(s).. GL
Q: just had a tile floor laid and i noticed some were higher than the one next to it in about 6 tiles. my husband says every house will have those. does yours?
No, my tile guys spent half the day leveling the concrete before laying the tiles. They sanded down the high spots and used filler in the low spots. My floor was perfectly level before they ever layed the first tile. They would slide a 8' straight edge over the floor many times look for discrepancies.
Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
I have to agree with answer 1. I tile every day of my life, and while greenboard certainly should be used for the balance of a bathroom, I stopped using it around tubs and showers, years ago. Concrete backer board is an industry standard, is not more difficult to install, and actually aids in tile/mortar adhesion properties. While you have the walls gutted, you might add a vapor barrier as well. The issue with patching over the damage is that it may become just as degraded as the original substrate, and I suspect cause you to be unhappy. Steven Wolf Just my two sense

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