• TPO Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts INFU FKAB System 1
  • TPO Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts INFU FKAB System 2
  • TPO Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts INFU FKAB System 3
TPO Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts INFU FKAB

TPO Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts INFU FKAB

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Product Material

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

Product Feature

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

Q: Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
Yes, you do need other insulation. If you are on a budget, check craigslist, often people have leftovers from a project., frequently for free! You can mix and match, blown, fiberglass, whatever! Just one note of caution, however: If you have electrical boxes sticking up into the attic space, for recessed lights, make SURE they are rated for contact with insulation, or leave a little space around them.
Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
POROSIL A specially graded Light Weight Insulating Aggregate for loose fill insulation in Cavity Wall and over Suspended/False Ceiling. # 100% inorganic and Asbestos free. It will not rot, emit odours or attract vermin. # Light in weight and easy to handle. # POROSIL is the only insulating material which is Non-toxic and non-flammable at the time of fire. # Reduces unwanted heat flow making living comfortable. # Reduces the Air Conditioning Power Consumption upto 20 to 30%
Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
Q: should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?
Should it be done, No. Thermal Insulation is put direftly above the ceiling. Not on the actually roof top. The reason being, that even though both methods will trap in heat, With the insulation on the arches of the roof, it still allowing heat into the Attic, Or roof space. This means that the top of the roof will infact be the warmest part of the house, and lot of heat will be lost. from the main rooms of the house.
Q: Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.
Q: im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
I installed a metal roof 5 years ago. I stripped the roof down to the plywood and put down 30# felt. This was what the manufacturer recommended. The felt is not for insulation though. The company was Metal Sales out of PA. They are glad to give advise.
Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q: This is blocking airflow and I'm having it removed after I bought the house. There is already insulation on the attic 'floor'. This is double insulated and is not correct. Why would anyone do this?
No building codes back then, and maybe he was thinking about putting an extra room up there then you would have to insulate the rafters also
Q: i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
Hey, Why not just sell the leftovers and make some dough instead? You can list them on craigslist or OKorder. Just a suggestion :) Regards, J
Q: attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
You still don't have enough attic ventilation. Definitely need more soffit vents. Roof mounted turbine vents that turn in the wind help suck more air through the attic. This coupled with at least one gable end vent should stop further mold. Removing old mold is a hassle, but can be done using diluted bleach in a lawn pump sprayer. A respirator will be needed to ensure you can breathe while applying the bleach solution.

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