• Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 30mm System 1
  • Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 30mm System 2
  • Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 30mm System 3
Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 30mm

Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 30mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Fiberglass Ceiling

The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.

 

Installation method:

Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.

Tiles are easy to trim and install

Both inches and metric grids are available

 

Main Characteristic:

Non-combustible

No sagging,wrapping or delaminating

Green building material

Excellent sound absorption

 

Application:

Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.

 

Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.

 

Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.

 

Q: I had my house re roofed last year and the roof leaked into a large utility room. I took the drop ceiling out and took down the ceiling panels above it and now I have to replace the insulation and put a ceiling back in. Its a very high celing unless I replace the drop ceiling panels here. Any suggestions? What kind of insulation should I use? I noticed some of the insulation has different numbers and some of it is very expensive so how do I know what to use?
The numbers associated with it are called R Value. As a rule of thumb, the higher R Value numbers, the better. For example, fiberglass has about R 3 per inch (least expensive) and rigid foam has about an R 6 per inch (most expensive). If you have plenty of space to work with, you could do 10 inches of fiberglass (or a similar mineral fiber type insulation) and get the same results as if you used 5 inches of foam. It just depends on your situation. If you are in a very cold climate, I would suggest insulating to an R 49. If you are in a very hot climate, I would suggest insulating to an R 19 with a radiant barrier (more efficient than R 30 in warm, sunny climates). If you are in a moderate climate, you could be anywhere in the middle.
Q: Hi, about 2 weeks ago I was in my ex boyfriend's attic (with his permission! lol) and he noticed a crack, which turned into a hole when I slipped and almost fell through into the bedroom! If you lie in bed you can now see right through to the attic; while it could be considered a design feature, my ex isn't keen on it :-) It's not very big, probably only 1.5ft square if that but obviously the plaster is missing, one of the lathes (think that's what they're called; the thin pieces of wood just behind the plaster) is broken in half and poking throught he hole and little bits of the fibreglass indsulation are falling down. My ex told his landlord who said it would cost ?150 to repair the damage, but I'm convinced my ex could do it himself...but how? Any ideas? I have been offered a large piece of plasterboard, could he use this in any way and would he have to enlarge the hole to replace the entire lathe? How does he replaster...etc - help please!
with chalk and soil.
Q: How about the whole closet
The overall closet, residential cover and the wall combined with the floor storage space. I believe many people think that the overall wall cabinet space, in addition to beautiful and beautiful no other; but the whole closet can become the leader in home decoration
Q: I have one of those fairly standard (US) ceiling light fixtures that is bowl shaped and takes two light bulbs. That thin tin foil layer came off and now the light bulbs radiate directly on to that fiber/insulation material. Is this a fire hazard? It is one of three and I don't want to replace it but I also don't want to replace the house and my family either if you know what I mean. Can I put some real tin-foil back in its place?
Most likely, the insulation is fiberglass and not a fire threat. However, the foil backing is to deflect light and heat downward, so it is best to replace, and generally easy to do.
Q: The newly bought rough roof is the roof but there is a section of the black bar on the ceiling that is not waterproof
Is likely to be waterproof construction and product quality effects, it is recommended that you choose the East Rainbow waterproof products and standardized construction team, the East Rainbow is the best quality waterproof listed companies
Q: I had the roof replaced last summer, but havent had the energy to get up there and take down the ceiling tiles and the fiberglass insulation. I started removing it a section at a time a week ago, and wow! What a mess!. Gravel is falling down on my head and the insulation and tiles are dry now, but its still hard to pull them out. Should I be wearing a mask? Is there anything in the old dried out insulation and ceiling tiles that I should cover my nose? Its making a really big mess, so any suggestions will be helpful.
Well, the masks are cheap, so why take a chance. I wouldn't want to breathe fiberglass. Personally I would wear an old cap, and a throw away mask. Cheap at any hardware store or some of the dollar stores. There might be mold up in there also, if it was wet. Not good to breathe mold spores.
Q: Can you play a sound absorbing effect with a grid ceiling?
Upstairs that is to use fiberglass, this is if it is home improvement, do not choose this, home improvement on the election polyester fiber cotton, the sound-absorbing effect is also good, according to the upstairs that do, polyester fiber sound-absorbing cotton filled 10 cm about there!
Q: I'm thinking of adding a ceiling to my porch to create an insulation space (the roof alone radiates a lot of direct heat in the summer; the porch otherwise is open) between it and the roof (corrugated fiberglass) but I'd like to still be able to see the roof as I've already painted the roof's interior and like how it contrasts with the supporting frame's color.I'm also looking to paint the exterior of the roof to better waterproof it (some leaks where previous owner screwed it in) and to better reflect light to further reduce heat. Any suggestion on paint or would it be better to just replace the roof entirely with better material? Thanks!
You can many ways could go.
Q: Renovation of living room wall with steel bricks
That is too wasteful, and now is not popular. I think it is good with a big mud, both environmentally friendly and beautiful. The Also save money
Q: I have hanged the drywalls on both the ceiling and walls. My questions is how should I tape the joints between the ceiling and walls? Should I use a regular paper tape, a fiberglass mesh or a paper corner bead (inside corner)?
I do Sheetrock repairs in apartments and houses. I have found that the paper tape works better in this application. after you put the mud in the joints tear of a piece of tape to cover the area you feel comfortable with. Usually five or six feet. Fold the tape in half. After you fold it it will look like a apiece of angle iron. then take the putty knife and push it in place as you press in in place be sure an keep it pushed into the joint so you do not leave a bubble. Then feather the mud as you go .Add another piece overlapping each piece slightly. When you get to the end butt the joints in the corner. Be sure and look back and make sure it stays tight in the groove. Good luck

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