• CCTV RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire System 1
  • CCTV RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire System 2
  • CCTV RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire System 3
CCTV RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire

CCTV RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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Specifications

RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire 
Application: Minitor cables supply the power and transmission. 
Standards: SCTE

RG59 Coaxial cable +18AWG Power Wire

Coaxial cable RG59+Power cable

1.Application: Minitor cables supply the power and transmission.
2.Standards: SCTE
3.Swept test: 0--1000MHz

4.Cable description


CABLE DESCRIPTION


Inches

mm

Center conduction

Material

Solid bare Copper

Diameter

0.03188

0.81

Insulation

Material

Foamed PE

Diameter

0.1456

3.70

Outer Conductor

Material

Copper Braid

Coverage

90%

90%

Jacket

Material

PVC

Diameter

0.2323

5.90

2C

Center Conductor

Material

Stranded bare copper

Diameter

0.04724

1.20(7×0.4)

2C

2×Insulation

Material

Stranded or Solid Insulation PVC

Diameter

2×0.07874

2×2.0

2C

Jacket

Material

PVC

Diameter

0.2125

5.40


5.Electrical Characteristics

1)Nominal Impendence: 75 Ohms

2)Return Loss: >=20dB


Q: I recently purchased a new power cable for my HP laptop (v6000 series) due to the disappearance of my old one. When I first plugged in the laptop, I noticed that it did not charge. I thought this might just be due to the fact that the battery has been dead for an extensive amount of time, but after leaving the computer plugged in over night, nothing has changed.What can I do to make my laptop's battery charge?Do I need to have a more powerful power cable?Thank you all for your help.
Maybe there are something wrong with your new power cable. Are you sure if the compatible is ok? I think you must take it to the seller and required he to explains.
Q: ok so i'm building a high gaming computer. my question is i'm a getting a Full moduler power supply my question is do i have to buy the cables for power does the componets i buy come with them??? oh and by the way just curious what happens if you touch thermal paste with your finger???
PSU wattage rather capacity no longer something. even with a 1500W psu, you nevertheless might have difficulty powering a 100w equipment if all that power is placed on the three.3 and 5v rails. Like ninety 5% of computer factors use the 12v rail for power. So any high quality PSU could have maximum the flexibility going to the 12v rails. (like ninety%+ of the entire wattage could be on the 12v rail). that one and all which actually concerns, is the entire mixed 12v rail amperage. Now often the better wattage the PSU, the better amperage the 12v rail is going to be by capacity of default, even on crap psu. while you're making plans on getting like a 3930K and overclocking it to the max, and getting like 2 gtx670s and overclocking them to the max, then you need to to look right into a 1200W psu, or you dont even want close that quantity of wattage. for many any computer setup, 750-850W is genuinely adequate for multi snap shots enjoying cards in case you have a high quality psu. identity recommend seasonic or the corsair HX/AX sequence psu. And so which you already know, working CFX/SLI doesnt even come close to to doubling the overall performance. Now making use of a z77 board, with an ivy bridge cpu, and pci-3.0 snap shots card, there is adequate bandwidth to double fps working multi enjoying cards. yet thats additionally assuming the pastime has finished sli/cf help. EDIT: nicely your first mistake is procuring an fx8150 (much less gaming overall performance then an i3-2120), and your 2nd is even thinking a 7970.... a gtx670 is extra efficient and $2 hundred extra much less high priced... and makes use of much less power... and runs cooler... and has a plenty bigger overhead for overclocking, so hmm...
Q: can i cut my computer Power Supply cables/USB and HDD cable to add an extension myself? They're all short.
No chance in hell. besides the fact you would have to extend the wires in the data cables with the EXACTLY same lenght, the chances to break the shielding is 100%. Not mentioning the fact that the power cables do not support the extra load given by makeshift connectors.
Q: How can we make out the physical size of a power cable if the cable is said to be 4 core, 150 sq.mm ??? How will we measure the diameter of this cable ???? please suggest......
If the size of the cable is 4 core, 150 sq.mm; = the cross sectional area of each core is 150 sq.mm. The diameter of each core is gotten from the formula C = ╥d. From this $ substituting values for ╥ and C; We find that d = 150 / 3.142. = d = 47.74mm :. for 4 cores, diameter of cable = 47.74 * 4 = 190.96mm However, note that this is only mathematical. On the field, the dimension of a cable is usually specified based on the number of cores it has, and the cross sectional area of one of the cores as the cores are all of the same size.
Q: How can i fix it and how much would it cost?
Well... It depends. First things first, never move your laptop with the ac plug connected to the laptop. This is why the plug stopped working. The connection is very fragile, it cannot withstand very much abuse. To get it fixed, you would have to bring it to one of the local computer repair shops to have a new AC jack soldered to the board. You will probably have a hard time finding a larger repair shop that will do this for you. You would be looking at around $120-180 just in labor. The jack will probably run around $10.
Q: I need to resolve a debate- is there a power/telephone line under the sea running between the UK and USA? Or is the communication just done by satellite?
**Power** cables, no. But transatlantic telephone cables still exist and are still in use.
Q: I got two hard drives. The cable connecting the hard drive has 2 connectors, does it matter which connector goes to the master drive and which goes to the slave drive? same question regarding the power supply. 2 connectors on the power cable, the order matters?
Master HDD connects to the end of the ribbon cable. Slave drive connects to the mid-connector. It is best to connect master to the power connector closest to power supply (less wire resistance).
Q: I've got a 1967 Sears-Kenmore sewing machine with a power cable that a cat chewed through (previous owner). The damage is near the end of the cable and the copper wires are showing. I shopped around and found a replacement pedal/powersupply but I really like the antique pedal I have with it. Thank you in advance.
If it's near the plug end, the one that goes into the wall, it's easy. You can buy a replacement plug, cut off the old one and wire on the new one. Wire strippers would be handy but you could strip the wires with a carefully used sharp utility knife, and you will need a screwdriver to deal with the plug itself. If it's very close to the foot pedal end or the machine plug side, that might be a bit harder, depending how much wire there is between the damaged cable and the pedal or plug. You could cut away the damaged portion, splice the wires with wire nuts, cover firmly with electrical tape and be done. If there isn't room to do that, you might have to take the foot pedal apart and re-attach the wires from the rest of the cable. Shouldn't be that hard to do. Just note where the wires went inside the foot pedal.
Q: My power cord for my computer and all usb cables i have seen have these cylindrical things on them. What do they do?
Those are called ferrites. You can learn more about them from a company called Fair-rite (I put their link down below). A ferrite is really nothing more than a magnet, but one specially tuned depending on the frequency of signal running down the cable, or the current if the cable is a power cable. Electro magnetic interference (EMI) is all around us, especially with all the electronic devices we have running in the modern home. EMI flies through the air and, when it contacts something metalic, it runs along that metalic line. In the case of a cable, imagine the clean signal picking up fuzz as it runs down the line. That's pretty much what happens. A ferrite stops the fuzz from getting through to the end of the cable, thus making the signal much cleaner when the end device gets to it. On a power cord, the ferrite helps prevent too much EMI from leaking out at the end and interfering with the device that the power is for. I should mention that a ferrite is always optional on a line, in other words the cable will work without one. However, ferrites aren't expensive and they do help with the signal, so most companies will just add one on to the product just in case.
Q: How to choose the type of street lamp cable specifications, anxious
laying the dark tube should be used when the steel pipe or flame retardant PVC pipe

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