Best selling ceramic wall tiles in Dubai market
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1200 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 540000 m²/month
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Specification
Best selling ceramic wall tiles in Dubai market
Advantage:
1. All ceramic wall tile are PREMIUM AAA Grade. We established an independent dept to inspect all goods before shipment.
2. OEM service: We can make your brand on the package or even on the tiles. Also, you can customize your own designs with us.
3. Special dimensions are available according to request.
4. More than ten years experience and very professional team in exporting to ensure your order more smooth.
5. On time delivery, in general 15~20 days.
6. Best service: customer can follow their order situation any time, no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.
7. Own designer team ensure the designs are newest and adjust for pure and right color.
Package Details :
8 pcs/carton
1080 cartons/1*20 GP/with pallet
27 Ton/ 1*20 GP
Product effect:
Factory show:
FAQ:
1. What is your MOQ?
MOQ: one design one container .
Decoration design: one design 1x20’GP, also can mix color in one container.
2. What is the MOQ to use customer design carton?
MOQ: 5x20'GP. if less than this qty will charge for carton design draft fee.
We have own designers to meet your requirements.
3. What is special of your tiles?
More glossy, more shine, more 170g glaze , special technology of tile body more stable.
4. How you assure the quality?
We inspect the quality during incoming material, production process, packing and loading.
5. Where is you market ?
Our main markets are North America , South America , Asia and Middle East .
6. Do you attend oversea fairs ?
Yes, we attend the fair in Dubai, Vietnam , Algeria , Korea ,Brazil and Frankfurt etc .
7. Can you make OEM ?
Yes ,we can .
8. Where is you famous customers ?
Our customers are including The Homedepot, OBI,...
9. What price you can offer?
EXW, FOB, CFR/CIF, ect
10. Do you have quality control team and designers?
Yes, we have 10 QC and 8 designers to guarantee quality and meet your colors and styles need
11. What payment you accept?
Normally By TT, L/C also acceptable.
- Q: What is the preferred method of installing an engineered wood floor over a concrete slab? Float or glue & why?
- First things first. You need to test your slab for moisture that could cause a problem later. Take either aluminum foil or plastic 16 x 16 squares and duct tape them down over slab. Seal all edges tight to slab. Now wait 24hrs.then pull up squares to see if there is any moisture either on the slab or on the back of the squares. If there is - do not install the engineered wood floor. Even if you install a floating pad this moisture will eventually penetrate the foam underlayment and get into the flooring. If there is no evidence of moisture I would proceed with the floating floor system. Using glue can create problems if you should ever loose your heating system in cold weather such as from a storm. The wood and the concrete react differently to temp changes and this could cause the floor to buckle.
- Q: I have what people call a great room. Meaning you can sit in my living room and see the kitchen and laundry room...it is basically all one room, a doorway divides the kitchen from the laundry area, and everything else is open. So can I move my fridge and stove, lay the flooring, and then put it right back, all the while working out towards the living room? Then move living room furniture into already laid dining room, pull up carpet, lay flooring, and then put the furniture back? Or do I need to clean out this WHOLE area and put down the whole floor and then move everything back in?
- Yes, you can do it that way. You will however spend precious installation time by moving the furniture in stages. It's always quicker to completely empty the entire room, then pull up the carpeting (not always an easy job) prepare the floor for the laying of the laminate. My son removed all the carpeting in his home, then put down a laminate floor throughout. It looks super. I hope you're happy with the end result. :)
- Q: We are looking to put in about 600 sq of engineered hardwood floors in our house. What are some of the better brands out there. We heard Johnson hardwood is pretty good. Any thoughts?
- Bruce, Mohawk, Shaw, Bella Woods and Armstrong to name a few to get you started.Now remember each one ( and all ) of these will have a low end and a high end so shop apples to apples. As far as Johnson hard wood, I haven t heard either way with that particular one. GL
- Q: Shop a few years of the floor, was not a sound, and now a few steps up the sound, there is no relatively simple maintenance methods. Check Baidu, most of the answers to such questions in the post to talk about the principle of sound, as well as attention to the floor. The question now is not a new floor, so if your answer is similar, it will not trouble you. Others say that..
- Wooden keel distance too farWooden keel distance should not be too far.
- Q: Solid wood flooring with laminate flooring, which is better
- Stability comparisonBecause the solid wood flooring and laminate floor structure itself, so the stability is also different, the bonding strength of plywood parquet determines its stability, and strengthen the floor completely broke the original wood tissue, destroy the shrinkage characteristics of anisotropic and moisture expansion and drying, the stability is relatively better.
- Q: Home decoration, would like to use wood floors, I would like to ask you what is the difference between solid wood flooring and composite floor ah? Which brand is good
- Solid wood flooringWood flooring using natural wood as raw materials,Environmental protection, high quality, and good visual effect as well.
- Q: I've seen a lot of installations of engineered floors done via gluing down the hardwood or having them float. Can you simply just nail them in? I'm thinking of a doing a self-install in a small bedroom and I don't think I'll be satisfied with floating while gluing is more work that I'm interested in doing. Is there a reason you're not supposed to nail down engineered floors as you would real hardwood, or is it an option?
- They dont really float it just allows for expansion. Sure, you CAN nail them -if you really want rusty nails in your new floor! Why not follow the manufacturers recommendations?
- Q: My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago - about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that give or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn't take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that's what no experience gets you ; ) Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere. Any other suggestions that don't include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?
- you know what to do just drill the hole that's how we do it to flooring expert @ city floor's Houston, TX
- Q: I'm looking at installing floating 3/8 or 5/16 engineered wood floors in an 90 year old house that has perimeter hot-water base-board radiators around almost every exterior wall. These are the units aobut 6 high with a flanged radiant core housed in an overhanging metal housing with an adjustable roof over the core. The rooms are large and the existing floors are sound and fairly level old 3 wide pine boards (NOT tongue and groove.) Normally you'd pull up the quarter-round and wooden base-board and put 10 mm spacers at the wall (which is what we'll do at the interior walls with no radiators.) Pulling out and extending the height of all the radiators would be prohibitively costly (that's why we are not doing 3/4 solid wood). If we just run the boards to just under the edge of the radiators will it be fine? Anyone out there dealt with this situation and how did you handle it?
- Baseboard radiators work by convection, meaning they take in air through the bottom, which passes over the heating core and then the warmer, lighter air rises out the top. This creates a circuit of cool air entering at the floor and warm air rising along the wall. Therefore, you need to have the bottom open for the heaters to work correctly. I'm guessing from your description that you would be reducing the size of the opening at the bottom. Any amount you reduce it won't help, but as long as you still have at least an inch and a half or so, you should be OK. I would just do it, and if the room seems colder when you're done, then maybe you might need to raise the heaters. I would think you can do that after the floors are installed without much problem (other than the pesky cost problem). The metal housing is usually separate and snaps on to the fin-tube and pipe inside. Maybe you can raise the cover (you might have to modify them a bit, cut off the snap on flanges or create new attachment points where they screw into the wall) to maintain the current opening at the bottom without moving the pipes...
- Q: I have engineered wood flooring glued to a slab on grade sub floor. We want to remove this and install a thin profile (that is rated and acceptable for concrete sub floor installation) hardwood flooring. However, the cost and hassle to remove the existing engineered wood flooring is more than the new hardwood itself. Could I simply add an additional layer of plywood on top of the existing engineered hardwood (to get the correct height for nails) and treat this as my sub floor, ready for new installation?
- No. Just go ahead and do it the right way. You are just asking for problems later by just ignoring the problem. Just pull up the old floor.
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Best selling ceramic wall tiles in Dubai market
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1200 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 540000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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