• Beautiful Products + Polished Porcelain Tile + Low Price 8H01 System 1
Beautiful Products + Polished Porcelain Tile + Low Price 8H01

Beautiful Products + Polished Porcelain Tile + Low Price 8H01

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 PCS
Supply Capability:
100000 PCS/month

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 Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:
1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile
2.Certificate:CE ISO
3.W.A. <0.5%
4.Material:Porcelain
Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:                        
1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm  Porcelain tile
2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile
3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.
4. Engobe(water proof)
5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP
6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)
7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT
8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.
9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request

Q: 1 package tiles can paste the number of square brick
The amount of tiles used, there are two main factors: First, the roughness of the base surface, the second is the use of smear tools. The more flat surface, the use of the less. Toothed scraper is the best tool for the construction of ceramic tile, the smaller the mouth, the smaller the amount. In the relatively flat base, De Gao's technical engineers measured, 6mm wide and 6mm deep tooth-shaped scraper dosage of about 3.5kg / ㎡, 10mm wide and 10mm deep tooth-shaped scraper dosage of about 5kg / ㎡, 12mm wide 12mm deep tooth scraper dosage is about 7kg / ㎡. To Tak Tak tiles common 20Kg package count, you can paste 3 to 7 square meters. Should pay attention to the big mouth is to paste a large tile, heavy brick, ordinary home decoration, with a small mouth of the scraper on it.
Q: i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
Tile, tile cutter, tape measure, chalk line, square, marker, measure your kitchen first and times width by length to get square footage so you will know how much tile to buy. Depending on the tile you may want to have someone at the store help decide what would be better in your room. You may need a spreader, tile cement, or mortar mix and grout , grout sealer etc.....
Q: Is there a low price in imported tiles?
One of the top ten brands of tiles: gold platinum Riley tiles ????Gold Platinum Rally Gambarelli Group has been committed to product development, has been three international patents: Double Face (double face), Oxygena (atmospheric purification brick), MetalStone (metal brick). These three patents represent the Gambarelli Group in product technology research and development achieved important results, its leading other brands of products in the frost resistance is also a good embodiment of high-tech technology. At the same time, the Italian Ministry of Environment has admitted that tiles containing titanium dioxide are environmentally friendly (see Official Gazette Document n 84/04) and cited the valid certificates of the Gambarelli Group as an effective standard for the industry. One of the top ten brands of imported tiles: Gardine tiles ????"Gardner" was formally established in 1961. From the beginning, "Gardner" is committed to design and development, its number of designers is all Italian factories, and even the world's largest ceramic tile factory, and "Gardner" also often employ world famous design As a theme design consultant. In terms of style, "Gardner" always adhere to the European court gorgeous and elegant design style. In terms of production, "Gardner" has always adhered to local production, never to reduce costs and set up factories overseas. It is precisely because of this insistence, "Gardner" has become the benchmark for the world tiles. One of the most proud of the Gardner honors is that Gardner is the first factory in the world to show tiles with a model, which changes the way the world displays tiles.
Q: is it better to rent a wet saw, or will a tile cutter be less expensive and less messy
It depends on what kind of cuts you need to make. A tile cutter is fine for straight cuts, but inevitably you will have to make some sort of crazy cut that you can't make with a tile cutter. A wet saw can be rented for a fairly reasonble rate and makes the job a lot easier.
Q: I need either of two types of tile one was a sheet of multicolor mosaic tiles the other is a creamy colour with a beige sort or swirly thing going through it
Matching dis-continued tile can be a big problem..This is why whenever I do a tile job I leave extra or open boxes behind...The only thing i can say is check every tile store you can find.....Perhaps one has an odd lot left of leftovers...If you know who made the tiles that would help the search....If you E-mail me a photo to my profile I will take a look around my area when I am at the tile stores...Usually shipping can be arranged.
Q: I am laying ceramic tile over subflooring using 1/4 inch wonderboard. I am trying to not to have to move or modify existing floorboard trim. If I have 1/4 inch thick tile, 1/4 inch thick wonderboard how much thickness should I assume for adhesive? I have an existing 11/16 gap between subfloor and bottom of floorboard trim. Will I be able to use adhesive to close the gap to make fill the gap or are there other options?
Although I don't think things will work out like you planned, you could use 1/2 inch wonderboard instead of 1/4 inch. That should help. The thin set that is used to adhere the tile won't fill any gaps. It is a thin layer.
Q: I‘m planning to tile up my space. It‘s a 27 square meters. I‘ve calculated the number of tiles. It will be around 140 to 150 pieces with extra tiles. How much or how many bags of tile adhesive will I consume for the 27 square meters space using 150 pieces of tiles? or What is the area a bag of tile adhesive could cover? Can you show me a computation.
You don t say what size tile it is and what your going over as far as a substrate. It makes a difference. Since I familiar with the coverage in s/f and your post suggests you came from the states I ll use a s/f format and some generalizations. Assuming you have a larger tile you should be using a larger notched trowel.1/4x3/8 but you may want to use a larger 1/2x1/2. I ll go off of a 1/4x3/8 trowel. A standard 50# bag of thin set will cover an area of 60/70 s/f using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. Splitting the difference and using 65 s/f per bag, divide 65 into the 290 s/f you have. Or 4.46 bags. So you ll need 5 , 50# bags of thin set using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. If your using a different size trowel , all bags have a coversion chart on the back to figure your coverage. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Do I start in the middle like normal tile? What happens if I don‘t start in the middle due to the uneven wall?
hi, I did my get right of entry to way approximately 2 years in the past with peel and stick tile. It exchange into fairly common. I wasn't as professional and did not initiate interior the middle, i began in a nook on the wall closest to the door and then ended up slicing all of the tiles on the different wall besides the undeniable fact that it nonetheless seems effective and that i think of exchange into greater handy. I additionally did not do away with the molding witch I ought to have in hindshigt, it may of made the sides smother. you purely ought to save them aligned and determine the floor is sparkling. My area exchange into approximately 10x8 and it took me (on my own) all of approximately 3 hours and that i exchange into 8 months pregnant (i exchange into nesting hehe). on your case, i could paint the partitions first to keep away from getting it on the tile. I purely decrease the tiles with wide-unfold scissors yet whilst your are thicker you will be able to need a container cutter. in case you have previous tiles or lanolieum or something else under the carpet then you certainly ought to do away with that first yet whilst not, the tiles bypass at once on the floorboards. solid luck!
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q: I‘m looking to replace a ceramic tile floor in my kitchen with a different style ceramic tile. The contractor says I have two options. He can either lay the new ceramic tile on the old, which will be cheaper than bringing up the old tile but then the floor will be raised 1 to 1 1/2 above current level. Or, he can take up the old ceramic tile but then he‘d have to remove the old layer of plywood and put down a new layer, which will be more labor-intensive and expensive. Is there any other issues regarding these two scenarios that I should take into account?
it is never a good idea to overlay anything, but it is your choice... myself i would remove the floor tile, check to make sure that the underlayment is well attached, if not you can screw down all the joints, put down luan board (screw and glue) which is 1/4 inch thick, using the correct thin set for what you have relay the tile floor. if there is any height differences around the cabinets simply use a small 1/4 round around the kick plates at the bottom of the cabinets, this will help with any cosmetic looks. when you get someone to lay the floor make sure they are bonded and insured and get any permits if needed for your area.

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