Reflective Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil with LDPE for Bubble Foil Facing Production

Reflective Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil with LDPE for Bubble Foil Facing Production System 1

Reflective Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil with LDPE for Bubble Foil Facing Production

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 12 cm²

Supply Capability:: 33412 cm²/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Aluminum foil facing insulation for Roofing Insulation

1. Aluminum Foil Facing Description：

The production technologies and products performance of aluminum foil facing have been up to international advanced level. The aluminum foil facing products are mainly used for HVAC system, refrigerators, building thermal aluminum foil facing insulation and laminated with glass wool and rock wool to increase the insulation function.

• FSK aluminum foil facing is mainly used for duct wrap in HVAC system and other fields, such as vapor barrier etc., and suitable for off-line lamination of glass wool or rock wool. By special processing, the facing will have excellent flame retardant property.

• Heat-sealing aluminum foil facing is used for duct wrap without applying extra adhesive and suitable for online lamination of glass wool and rock wool.

• The PSK aluminum foil facing, whose structure is white polypropylene/ fiberglass scrim/ kraft is mainly used for metal building insulation and suitable for the insulation of ware-house, factory, supermarket, office and so on.

• Double sided aluminum foil facing vapor barrier, whose structure is aluminum foil/ high strength kraft /fiberglass scrim /aluminum foil and laminated together by special flame retardant adhesive, can be used for roofing, wall insulation of house, warehouse, cold storages, factory and others.

2.Main Features of the Aluminum foil facing：

• Light weight

• High manufacturing accuracy

• High strength

• Small inertia resistance

• Strong heat dissipation ability

• Good visual effect

• High reflective insulation

• Heat resistant, water proof, stable at high temperature;

• environmentally friendly,no smell and not-toxic;

• Smooth and clear surface;

3.Aluminum Foil Facing Images

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil facing production

4.Aluminum Foil Facing Specification

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828
Burst strength	N	43	ASTM D774
Reflectivity of foil surface	%	95	----------
Temp. Resistance	-29°C 66°C	No Delamination No Delamination	ASTM C1263
Water vapor permeance	ng/N.s	1.15	ASTM E-96
Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828

Width: 1.0m, 1.2m, 1.25 m, 1.30, 1.37m

Length: 200m, 500m, 1000m, 2500m, 2750m, 3300m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1), 72mm ±1

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

1. How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil facing and is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil facing bases in China. Annually more than 1000 containers of aluminum foil facing are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan.

What is the storage condition?

1,The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

2, It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

3, The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within four working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.

Q: I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.: Best way and easy cheap way is just roll out unpapered fiberglass over top of joist at right angles to existing insulation

Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.: You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.

Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?: The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)

Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.

Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?: The warm air that collects in the attic is in close contact with the roof, heat is conducted through the roof and lost to the atmosphere.

Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.: Blown in is easier, cheaper and can be a DIY project. Just make sure you don't block the soffitts that allow air to circulate.

Q: We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?: They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!

Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!: You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.

Q: Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?: No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit