• Aluminum Film Laminated Woven Cloth EPDM Roofing Insulation Board System 1
Aluminum Film Laminated Woven Cloth EPDM Roofing Insulation Board

Aluminum Film Laminated Woven Cloth EPDM Roofing Insulation Board

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1. Description

Three-layer product with bright aluminum coated film to one side, woven fabric as substrate provides superior tear resistance. LDPE (Polyethylene) used in this product provides superior resistance to delamination.

2. Construction & Benefits:

The combination of woven fabric and aluminum coated polyester film by polymer adhesive producing an extremely tough product with superlative tear resistance.

3. Application:

Designed for use as a wall wrap and as a roof covering for commercial and residential building, it could come into contact with wet concrete or mortar, because aluminum film is not susceptible to alkali corrosion.

4. Dimension/Size

[1]. Roll width: 1000mm,1200mm and 12500mm

[2]. Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.

[3]. Core I.D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)

5. Similar products guide

FW780

FWS780

FWM780

FWS1280

Q:The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.
Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Spray in foam could be an option.. you would need to talk to someone who knows more than I do.. but Ive seen great results
Q:if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
Yes,you do need to insulate your attic. Heat rises. If you look around the neighborhood and everyone else has snow on there roof and you do not than you need to insulate your attic because your heat is going through the roof and melting the snow off of it. Easy job to do.
Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
Increasing the pitch will of course result in a larger dead air space therefore more insulation. The greater pitch is also less likely to leak but of course more costly to construct as more material is needed. Install vents at the peaks for more efficiency. Shingles will be less likely to be lifted by high winds with the steeper roof also.
Q:is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
No it is not EVER safe! Roofing material needs to breathe. Anywhere that insulation is applied to the underside of the roof deck the roofing material will warp and then leak. You have to have a cushion of air between the underside of the decking and the insulation
Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?
Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ
Q:we have liq. ammonia storage tank (capacity 40000 ton)having double wall & suspended deck.liq. NH3 stored at temp -33 degree cent. insulation (form ) being provided to annular space (wall ) but not on top roof . can you explain for exact reason.with regardsanvar shaikh
Insulation is less necessary on the roof. The ammonia is mostly a liquid, and a liquid would absorb heat rapidly from tank walls. Above the liquid is vapor, and vapor absorb heat much less rapidly than liquid does, so insulation is less important there.
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
Q:Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck
Q:We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
they sell insulation at the home improvement stores. if you have tried that type then you will need to call a proffessional to insulate with fiberglass and wrap with tin protective cover. depends how cold it gets you may have to use heat tape also.

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