• Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 1
  • Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 2
  • Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 3
  • Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 4
  • Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 5
  • Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile System 6
Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile

Wooden Like Porcelain Ceramic Floor Tile

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Specification

Type:
Matt Tiles
Packing:
Carton with Wooden Pallet
Function:
Waterproof, Wear-Resistant, Non-Slip, Anti-Static, Acid-Resistant, Soundproof, Thermal Insulation, Antibacterial
Color:
Brown / Tan
Usage:
Household, Interior Tiles, Commercial, Outdoor, Exterior Tiles, Sports
Export Markets:
Global
Material:
Ceramic Tiles
Size:
150*900mm,150X600mm,600X600mm,400X400mm,500X500mm
Surface Treatment:
Matt
Technique:
Glazed Tile
Certification:
CE, ISO9001
Sample:
Available for Free
Standard:
SGS
HS Code:
69089000
Thickness:
10mm

Wooden pattern floor/wall tile, first class quality.

1) Matrial: porcelain
Surface: Glazed matt

Size: 150*900mm,150x600mm,300x600mm,400x400mm,500x500mm
Feature: Matt, reluster, glazed, acid Resistant, non-slip
Anti-slip:>R10


2)Usage: Household interior, hotel, shopping mall, supermarket, commercial, etc.
Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%-0.8%;
Thickness: 9.5-10mm

3)Transportation: By sea, by land or appointed by customer


No.Inspection ItemUnitProvisions of StandardsInspection ResultQualified or failed
1Length & widthmm± 0.6-0.09%~+0.11%Qualified
± 0.5-0.01%~+0.01%Qualified
2Thickness%± 5+1.80%~+2.97%Qualified
3Squarenedd%± 0.2-0.03~+0.04Qualified
4Water Absorption%Average:0.11%
Individual maximum:0.13%
Average: 0.11%
Individual maximum: 0.13%
Qualified
Qualified
5Breaking StrengthNThickness≥ 7.5mm,not less than 1300N2230NQualified
6Rupture ModulusMpa-Average≥ 35 Mpa individual≥ 32Average:48.1MPa
Individual maximum: 46.6 MPa
Qualified
Qualified
7Report abrasion class and cycles passed-Report abrasion class and cycles passedClass 3 falture visible at 750 revolutionsQualified
8Crazing resistance-RequiredFully resistantQualified


Q: i need to cut a hole in ceramic floor tile. i have tried many things such as dremel with different ceramic tile cutting attachments and a carbide hole saw.what should i try next?
Grinds that carbide right off the bit, doesn't it? One of the previous posts has one technique, that being, drill a small hole in the tile (carbide, diamond-tip) at a slow speed with some sort of lubricant such as water (also cools the bit, but don't electrocute yourself) on the tile. Then you would thread the carbide grit hacksaw blade through the hole and hook up a hacksaw frame and cut away - - slowly. Then the tile will usually break when you are almost done. There are tile hole saw blades made, but they are not cheap, as they wear out relatively quickly. They will work up to a few inch diameter size. If it's any bigger than that, you'll probably want to find someone with a water-jet machine, like a countertop fabricator - person. A water-jet cuts just like it sounds - with water. It'll cut stone up to several inches thick. Hope that helps
Q: my tiles i am using are 13 inch,and i am doing a 4x8 wall,so i was wondering which is the best way to adhere it
It will be fine. I hope that you did not throw the crud away as it is an essential part of the adhesive. If you have, add a little water and stir thoroughly. A good tip with those sorts of materials, paint, varnish etc. is to store them upside down, after making sure you have a good seal. Then, when you eventually come to use them, you turn them the right way up and the settlement is at the bottom of the container, waiting to be blended in. If the ceramic tiles do not have integral spacers, try using 12mm lengths of uncooked spaghetti rather than those plastic crosses. With the spaghetti, the thickness is consistent, the joints are small (less cleaning, more coverage) and you can get rid of any sign of it on the following day; when you should grout; by swiping a trowel or grouting tool across it. Many adhesives allow you to tile straight over existing tiles. Good luck!
Q: I need two more floors tiles to match my kitchen floor. The floor was down before we moved in. how i can find out what type of tile it is?
If you have any loose pcs not yet installed the backs can give me clues as to what it is. Along with the year it was originally installed ( approx) and the exact size of the tile.. Any thing over 8/10 years old you may as well look for some thing close in the exact size. Beyond that your looking at reclaimed tile discount outlets looking for dropped tile lines. There is a few places that specialize in buying and selling of dropped lines of tiles. They change and discontinue tiles every 7/10 years to keep up with changing styles and colors patterns. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We currently have carpet throughout our house, but due to having dogs, we hate the carpet. While hardwood or laminate seems the logical choice, tile would hold up much better to their toe nails. My concern is how having tile throughout the entire house (even in the living room, computer room, bedrooms, etc) would look. I know it is done sometimes, but I just can't picture it in my mind. How do you feel about it? Would the tile (it would be very neutral in color) be okay through the entire house or should we go with laminate deal with the scratches when/if they happen?
Ok I would tile the whole house accept for the rooms that you would not want the dog in like your bed room, my parents have 4 dogs, 2 grey hounds and 2 smaller dogs and with the tile its a lot easier to maintain remember you don't have to keep it one color put borders in different tile borders to show distinctions between the rooms and your Life will be great. why bother with the scratches, and if its done right, making sure you seal the grout first, you will have no problems.
Q: I have thinset my slate tiles in place, and washed any thin set off as best as I can with water. I can‘t seem to get some of the thinset marks off, how important is this? Also, how long should I let the tiles dry before I can seal them? (I want to seal before grouting). One last thing, my sealer product says to grout 2 hours after sealing? This seems fast...will the sealer be dry enough?
Yikes! in case you seal the tile till now you grout, you will have bonding issues, grout to tile. you're able to desire to alter the feel of the floor of the grout to be helpful. The invisible, penetrating sealers won't comfortable out the grout floor, it incredibly is a prerequisite for protecting it sparkling. make certain you have a sufficiant coat to be helpful. as some distance by using fact the kind is going, ask your tile corporation who lays the main tile interior the section. That installer provides you with the final tip on your grout sealer.
Q: Does anyone know where I could find a (preferably antique) terracotta roof tile? I am finding companies that import these tiles, but they sell 100 at a time, while I need 1-3.
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Q: How do you tile anyway? thank you
I have to have the same thing done. No, I would not put the new over the old! Actually, I know that it is expensive, but it would be best to hire someone that knows what they are doing, do it for you. Worth the money in the long run.
Q: I need step by step instructions on how to install ceramic tile in a bathroom on a concrete slab.
I okorder . I'm going to try replacing the tiles in my shower. There is some water damage so I'm going to have to replace the boards, backing, and maybe even wall supports first though. I'm hoping to be able to finish it in a couple of weeks, luckily I have a second bathroom! Tiling is hard, you might have to rent a wet saw too. But it can pay off by increasing the value of your house at a tiny fraction of the $1,000's that contractors would charge. I would only do this project if you are patient and have some experience with DIY projects. If you have lots of time, then go for it!
Q: We are using some leftover floor tile (6x6 size) and some new decorative tile (2x2 and 1x1) to tile our backsplash. Can we use the same mortar that we used on the floor? Also, we used a 1/4 inch notched trowel when doing the floor -- should we use a smaller notch for the backsplash (say, a 1/8 inch notched trowel)? Finally, the floor tile and the 1x1 tiles are porcelain. The 2x2 tile is tumbled travertine with quite a few pits on the surface. We don‘t know if we should fill those pits with grout or not. On one hand -- it will make the tiles easier to clean if they are filled (yes?). On the other, we like the look of the pits and don‘t know if we want the grout (which is a slightly darker color) filling the pits. Any suggestions?
Yes you can use the same mortar I prefer to use the 1/4 inch trowel because I've seen to many tiles not well enough adheard with the 1/8 inch.On the travertine I'm in agreement with you to keep the pits.Simply blue tape over the tiles then grout.Hope this helps 8 yr experienced tile installer.
Q: I am replacing the tile in my kitchen and having trouble getting the old tile up. The tiles are 12 inch squres, I‘m not sure what they are made of, something like linoleum I think. When it was installed it had pre-glued backing and I would like to know the easiest way to remove it. THANKS
Other answers are ok. You can avoid removing the tile entirely by using a concrete based liquid floor leveler. Works great and is self-leveling and easy to use. It dries very quickly and provides a solid, smooth surface to accept the new tile. If you do decide to remove the old tile, determine that it contains no asbestos before you proceed with any mechanical means of removal.

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