• Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015 System 3
Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015 is one of the most popular series of Glazed Porcelain Tile, which is one most popular serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas. This kind of tile has structure on the surface.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 1-3%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3


 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wood Floor Series WF6015

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton. We also have different sizes for the wood floor series.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.


3.   How it will be installed? Is it rectified?

—— Normally they are rectified and also easy installation.

 



Q: We just had tile intalled in our home. What products do you use (or recommend) to clean tile? On a regular basis? Spill/Accident basis?Also, can anyone recommend a good cordless sweeper (for tile of course)?
i don't know but i got 2 points
Q: I have a basement about 25X25 does anyone know how much it would cost to put vinyl tile down?
Is the floor sealed properly to prevent moisture from causing tile to lift after installation if not it could cost double the amount assuming that the calculation is correct. I can only assume that 25x25 is in feet so that would be 625 square feet. self adhesive tiles may not stick well to cement so applying glue then the tiles might be a better idea. I am not sure about the price but the last time I checked these where less expensive then the self adhesive tiles. Personal I would consult with the folks at the hardware store talk to one of the older ones as they would have more experience. They will also help you estimate the cost so you can consider the value of your purchase before you decide proceed!
Q: We are thinking of putting nonporous wall tile on walls in our kitchen ... even above the stove. The tile there may get some splatter from cooking so I‘m wondering how difficult is it to clan a nonporous tile? I am assuming it is fairly easy, but would love to hear what the community thinks.
Nonporous tile is very easy to clean. You can remove grease and grime with regular dishwashing liquid...just a drop on a clean sponge. Scrub with this and wipe with a clean wet rag. I think you'll like the tiles. Nonporous tiles are a piece of cake to keep clean. -
Q: I‘m having a small bathroom remodled. The floor isn‘t perfectly rectangular, there are some uneven areas because of the tub. I would like the opinion of a profession tiler (should there be one put there, somewhere)...should the floor tiles always be centered, or start lined up against a wall? Also, should the grout be completely dry before sealing it? Thanks.
It is extremely rare that any floor is perfectly rectangular. That is why we dry fit the tile before we actually lay it. The idea is to lay it out in such a way that you maximize the size of all border tiles. The larger the border tiles, the less you will notice any variances in the walls. So, sometimes the tile will be centered, sometimes start against a wall, sometimes none of the above. Each job is different. I will give you an example of when you don't want to center your first grout line. When doing so will result in very narrow border tiles. In such a case, the contractor has to come up with a solution Make sense? There are many more scenarios I can think of, but I think you get the point.
Q: laying sheet laminate over existing ceramic tile on kitchen counter
The best answer, of course, is to pull the tile. If you want, however, you can go right over the top by gluing a sheet of 1/8 or 1/4 sheet product (lauan or cheap paneling) over the tile using mastic. Making sure it is level and solid, you can then apply laminate directly over the top. I've done it on two remodels on rental properties and it worked just fine.
Q: We just installed laminate wood floors tiles in our open space living/kitchen room. We put ceramic tiles in the kitchen area the wood laminate in the living area. Due to time constraints we had to get the laminate installed first before the tiles. Our tiler was supposed to put something between the wood the tiles but didn‘t. He‘s not being very cooperative about completing this, so we are trying to do something ourselves.What can we put there, so that the grout stops coming apart where the tiles laminate wood meet?Thanks.
Hopefully, your tile guy used a metal edge to end the tile. It makes for a cleaner look for a transition to another floor. If he did not, it just makes it a bit more difficult but not impossible... My suggestion would be to use silicone in between the two floor types. Grout will always crack there if there is no edge installed. The laminate floor moves and the tile doesn't (hopefully, or you have more problems to look forward to with cracking grout...) so the silicone allows the movement. It does depend on what colour the grout is but if it's white, almond, dark grey/black; you can use silicone right out of the tube in place of the last bit of grout or between the metal edge and the laminate. You will have to scrape out some of the grout from the transition area... about 1/16 deep where the tile ends and the laminate starts. If it is not a standard silicone colour, you have to mix clear silicone with some grout powder (on a sheet of cardboard or something... to make a silicone grout that matches...) and force it in the crack with your finger. Use masking tape to cover the laminate edge and the edge of the tile and leaving an open area between... take the tape off while the silicone is wet and rub any excess off each surface. Once it is cured, you can rub off the remaining excess silicone from the tile with your finger. Even if the colour is not exact, grout changes colour (darker) over time... even if you seal it... the seal wears out, most people don't keep up with re-sealing etc... Sounds time consuming yes, but works well and worth the effort as opposed to a threshold trim that will result in a high spot over the joint. Good luck!
Q: I am making a movie for school and i need to hang things from our ceiling to the ground. The problem is is that the ceiling is an acoustic tile and i‘m not sure if it will hold enough. (This is one of the older acoustic tiles with all of the holes in them.
Been there, done that... Can't happen. What you can do, however, is go to the hardware store and buy new ones OR if replacing them is out of the question, get a can of KILZ paint primer. It is the best stain blocker on the planet. Once you cover it with Kilz, it WILL still show through the Kilz, itself, but once you have one or two coats of regular pain over it, you will never see the blood again.
Q: I want to know how to make tile based map in java. Retro games used tiled maps (to ease programming and memory management) but those games were created in assembly language. I know basic java. Now I want to make a 2d game in java, starting with a pretty basic 2d platformer type or top-down type. To do this, i need to know the technique required to make a map, a tile map.I have already searched in google and youtube and stack overflow, but none helped much. What I learnt is that I have to make some tile object and make a 2 dimensional matrix to store position of particular tiles. But this does not helped much. Thank you.P.S. there are many programs available on the internet for making tile maps, and also there are game making softwares and also libraries. i do not want to use any of those since i want to make my game with whatever java provides. Thank you. Also forgive my poor english.
first of all, you need to build different densities of 2D tile arrays according to how much of the map will be in the viewport at any given time. For example, a map at neighborhood level will need a gazillion more tiles than a map at the county level. Then, you need a way of converting the geographic reference at the center of the viewport to the tile that is covered at that zoom level, and for finding the adjacent tiles as well. Then, you'll need to calculate what parts of which tiles you are using will need to be clipped and by how much. Build a canvas using this information. As the map moves, you'll need to add on more adjacent tiles, and discard others, update the clipping, etc.
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q: can you paint over bathroom tiles? if so what kind do i need?
No, I've never seen it and there's a scientific reason. You know the brown stuff between the tiles? And you know how things contract when it's cold right? So because the brown stuff and paint contact in different paces, the paint would crack and it would look really ugly (it would even look pretty bad before it cracks) Just replace the tiles with the colour you wanted.

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