• Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation System 1
  • Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation System 2
Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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1.Structure of Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Description:

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil consists of two layers of aluminum foil with plastic bubble laminated between the aluminum foil,provides excellent insulation: Reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction, convection and radiation. The two side aluminum foil forms an effective barrier against moisture, air currents and vapors.

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil is an economical solution for a wide range of industrial, manufacturing and consumer applications.

2.Main Features of the Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil:

Bubble Foil Heat Insulation

Excellent insulation

Industrial Furnace and Special Equipment heat insulation

Good Quality

Competitive Price

3. Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Images

 

4.Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Specification 

 

Product name

Bubble foil heat insulation material

Material Structure

AL+Bubble+AL

AL+Woven Cloth+Bubble + Colored Foil  

AL+ Woven Cloth + Bubble + Woven Cloth+AL

Bubble Size(Diameter*Heihht)

10mm*4mm

20mm* 7mm

20mm*7mm

Bubble Weight

0.13kg/m2

0.3kg/m2

0.3kg/m2

Roll Width

1.2 m (customized)

1.2 m (customized)

1.2 m (customized)

Thickness

3.5mm

6.5mm

6.5mm

Weight

256 g/m2

425 g/m2

500 g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04 COEF

0.03-0.04 COEF

0.03-0.04 COEF

Thermal Conductivity

0.034W/Mº

0.032W/Mº

0.032W/Mº

Apparent Density

85 kg/m3

70.7 kg/m3

83 kg/m3

Reflectivity

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013 g/m2Kpa

0.012 g/m2Kpa

0.012 g/m2Kpa

Corrosion

Doesn't generate

Doesn't generate

Doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98 Mpa

16.85 Mpa

35.87 Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5 Mpa

15.19 Mpa

28.02 Mpa

 

5.FAQ

①Are you a manufacturer or just a trader?

We are a professional manufacturer.

②How about the quality?

The quality is very good. We have large and advanced product line.welcome to visit our company.

③How about the delivery time?

We will delievry soon once we receive your deposit.


Q: Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?
Hell yes it should. A lot of contractors skimp on insulation though. Every singe area in your attic under your roof needs fiberglass insulation or you will lose heat and air and your electric bill will be higher. Heat rises and u will lose it fast in the winter if there is just one small spot without it.
Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?
you should have insulation on the attic. ot should be right against the occupied ceilings. The attic cavity needs to be for the most part ventilated. That is a common building approach. Ive seen insulated sheets of plywood the roof shingles are nail to. You can call that roof insulator. You still better off with the common industry approach. Make sure you have an attic fan to level the attic temperature to the outside.
Q: if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
remember the front of your house is the back of your neighbors house across the street when looking at the roof
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?
Q: What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
Insulation is to not let air from the outside seep in and does not let air on the inside seep out. The purpose is so in the winter, cold air does not get into the house through cracks (saves gas/oil/electricity need to heat the home) and in the summer, it does not let cold air from your AC escape unexpectedly which saves electricity to cool your home. Insulation is a great way to save money, but if you have your windows open, then it does nothing. XD Hope that helped.
Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
Your best angle is to go with blow in fiberglass. ownes corning and Johns mansville both make good blow in fiberglass. Menards and Home depot in our area will lend you a blow in machine for free but make sure you have 2 people to run it and that you have a TIGHT sealed face mask for the guy in the attic along with safety goggles. No way around it either that guy in the attic is gonna get itchy, so expect that now. I put blow in cellulose over my attic fiberglass bats to bring it up to R-50 but i regret it now. I should have stuck with fiberglass. I did some research after the fact and there is some flammability issues with the cellulose i used and on top of that it is seriously dusty so i cant store anything in the attic space anymore. Cellulose was cheaper and the "green" choice but if i could reverse time I would have gone fiberglass blow in.
Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.
Q: fixing my room up and it gets hot in summer so i want to put some good insulation in the roof so what could i use?
If okorder / what they are finding, along with shingle manufacturers is the spray insulation is not allowing enough air movement in the attic to cool the shingles on the exterior of the house and the shingles are literally baking themselves on the roof! Now, if your room is not the attic and you are simply looking to add insulation to cut energy costs and change the temperature of the living space of your home- I would definitely go with the batten style (or roll) insulation- its an easy install, inexpensive and works really well.
Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.

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