Roofing Insulation Sheets - Aluminum Foil Composited Insulation Material FBBM1002

Roofing Insulation Sheets - Aluminum Foil Composited Insulation Material FBBM1002 System 1

Roofing Insulation Sheets - Aluminum Foil Composited Insulation Material FBBM1002

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Composited Insulation Material FBBM1002

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

STRUCTURE	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL	MPET /BUBBLE/MPET	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL
THICKNESS	1-4mm	8mm	6.5mm	4mm	4mm
WEIGHT	120GSM	240GSM	180GSM	120GSM	445GSM
BUBBLE SIZE	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM
WIDTH	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY	0.034w/mo	0.032 w/mo	0.032w/mo	0.034w/mo	5.87m2.k/w
REFLECTIVITY	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulation，is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

④What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q: I have a converted loft which is really cold. The roof doesn't have any insulation, just a waterproof sheet, but i don't want to spend too much insulating it with the proper boards. If i use mineral wool and staple it across the roof trusses will it do a good job?: Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.

Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP: All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.

Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: The talcum powder and clothing can only do so much. They can be effective, but can still lead to some itching once you are done working on the job. A cold (then warm) shower should be sufficient for clearing out the insulation and taking care of the itching.

Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?: The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)

Q: Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?: You should not be able to see your roof tiles from inside your house. So no, it can not be done. You can attach insulation to the rafters if that is what you meant.

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q: we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,: i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.

Q: fixing my room up and it gets hot in summer so i want to put some good insulation in the roof so what could i use?: How much access do you have to the attic, or the space below the roof? Are you going to be replacing the ceiling of your room and adding insulation from below, or getting into the attic and adding insulation above your room from there? If there is a large attic space above your room, and not much ventilation, sometimes you can cool the living space by simply installing some ventilation grilles to the roof to vent off hot air from the attic.

Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a &quot;living in condition&quot; with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a &quot;spray-on&quot;insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :): The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.

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