• Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls - Heating Insulation and Fire-Proof Rock Wool Board System 1
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  • Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls - Heating Insulation and Fire-Proof Rock Wool Board System 4
  • Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls - Heating Insulation and Fire-Proof Rock Wool Board System 5
Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls - Heating Insulation and Fire-Proof Rock Wool Board

Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls - Heating Insulation and Fire-Proof Rock Wool Board

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000000 m²/month

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Heating Insulation and Fire-proof Rock Wool Board

1.Structure of Heating Insulation and Fire-proof Rock Wool Board

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Heating Insulation and Fire-proof Rock Wool Board

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Heating Insulation and Fire-proof Rock Wool Board Images

 

 

4. Heating Insulation and Fire-proof Rock Wool Board Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

 

Q: I live in central florida. I plan on installing R-30 insulation to the floor of my attic. How effective is it to install reflective insulation to the attic on the roof side? Is it worth the price?
do not insulate your roof,it will cause the roof to get VERY hot,this will damage the roofing,shorten its life,,the temp in your attic should be within 3-4 deg of outside temp,,,insulate the floor Only and have plenty of ventilation
Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP
i'm designing a house it quite is a retangle on the 1st floor with an L shape on the 2d and installation into that L i choose to have a greenhouse related. My plan is to apply 2x10 or 2x12s for my floor joist that way i can insulate the ceiling of the room it is under that and the two partitions that are related to the greenhouse. no longer a lot to learn any warmth from it,yet to have plant life. If i choose to get any image voltaic benefit illl in simple terms open the door to the domicile
Q: Why is the most insulation needed in ceilings or roofs? Just wanted to know
well insulation in general is to keep the inside temperature different than the outside. since hot air usually rises, i think it is to keep warm air form escaping in winter. also you don't usually have a heater in the attic, or air conditioning so insulation will keep the air in the attic from having an effect on the air within the house. that is my idea as to why
Q: if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
remember the front of your house is the back of your neighbors house across the street when looking at the roof
Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?
I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it
Q: does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
I don't get the connection between R-Value (insulation) and shingles that are exposed to the outside!
Q: What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
Neither, it is to not let heat through.
Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
Because air can circulate, (it's called convection) and transfer a lot of heat. In other words, air alone is a very poor insulator. .
Q: We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?
They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

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