• PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 1
  • PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 2
  • PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 3
  • PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 4
  • PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 5
  • PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN System 6
PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN

PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
20000 m²/month

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PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN

PORCELAIN RUSTIC FLOOR&WALL TILE GRANITI DESIGN

Product informations

  • 600*600mm  rustic glazed porcelain  tile   

  • Sizes: 600 x 600,600*1200mm,  GRADE:AAA

  • Thicknesses: 9.5-10.5mm

  • Water absorption: 0.5%

  • Surface: smooth

  • Min. order quantity:500 SQM

  • Certificates: CE and ISO9001

  • Usage area: Be suitable for market, hospital, metro, school, office building, hotel, real estate, bar and living room etc.

  • Package: standard export paper carton with wooden pallet

  • Payment terms: T/T or irrevocable L/C at sight

  • Delivery time: With 20 days after deposit

  •  

Product Parameter

Surface Finish

Glazed

Size

600x600mm    600x120mm

MOQ

3-4 items can be mixed in 1x20Gp is in   stock

Packing details

850CTN-1224M2/20GP

OEM

Designs can be produced according to your   requirement

Payment terms

T/T,L/C ,WESTERN UNION

 

Test Item

GB/T4100.1-2010

Test Result

Length Tolerance

Length

599.7~600.0

Side Straight

±0.2

-0.04~+0.05

Right Angle

±0.2

-0.05~+0.04

Surface Flatness

Center curvature

-0.04~+0.04

Surface Quality

Aminimum of   95% of the tiles

shall be free   from visible defects

No visible defects

Water Absorption

Mean value E≤0.5

0.08

Breaking Pressure

When the   thickness is ≥7.5mm,

the average   shall be ≥1300

1764.6

Modulus of Rupture

Mean value ≥35

37.2

Luster Degree

≥55

70-73

Abrasion Resistance

≤175

131

Resistance to Frost

No crack or peeling

No

Resistance to   Household

Chemical   Reagent

Not lower than UB level

UA level

Resistance to Chemical

of Swimming Pool

Not lower than UB level

UA level


SIZE/mm

PCS/CTN

KG/CTN

SQM/CTN

CTN/20

SQM/20'

KG/20'

600x600

4

32

1.44

864

1244.16

27000

600x1200

2

35

1.44

768

1105.92

27000

 

Q: Tile TV wall is good
Tile TV wall is very suitable for use in the living room, bedroom Style can be used according to personal preferences Pattern is also a lot of options In general, tile background wall is still very good home improvement options
Q: Has anyone every used Ceramic Tiles to re-do bathroom floors? I‘ve seen it done on HGTV but just wanted to knw if it was really that easy?
We've tiled a few rooms, it's not hard, but it takes time and practice. Here's what you need to know: Laying out the grid can be time consuming, but very worth the trouble. Cutting tiles straight across or boxy is easy. Curves are more challenging- don't expect a perfect arc. You don't have to do glue down the tiles all at once, but you do want to do the grout all at once. DEFINITELY use the spacers that you can put ONE in the middle of the four corners and stick above the tiles to pull out easily. The tiles need to dry in the glue at least a day before grouting. Consider the color of your grout as carefully as the color of tile you buy. Mix the grout carefully and use a tile sponge to get the grout smooth. Carefully clean as much grout as possible off the tiles. The grout must dry at least a day before sealing. You should re-seal your grout to maintain your floor as directed on the sealant. The spray on sealer is magic for smaller areas. A large area might get expensive and more time consuming?
Q: We are wanting to get rid of old wood floors. We are debating tile vs. concrete finished floors. Pro/cons? What about cost difference.
Tile can cost from about $1 and sqaure foot plus, thinset and grout plus the cost to install it. If you do it yourself it's free of course if you hire someone then it can cost from about $2 a square foot on up. so, it depends on how manyh sqare feet you have. Concrete flooring looks okay. It has an industrial look. It cracks very often and costs around $3 a square foot according to a friend of mines estimate. I say go with tile. It's a lot easier to clean and more durable and lasts a lot longer.
Q: I have large granite tiles on my counter that don't go all the way to the edge. Ceramic ones complete the lip. Unfortunately, to get my old dishwasher out from under the counter I had to break some. How do I remove what's left of them without damaging the really nice granite ones? Is there anything else I need to be careful about?
The force from removing the broken tile can be transferred through the grout onto the granite tile. So first try to clear out the grout between the 2 rows of tile. Use a hammer and chisel (and safety glasses) and swing away from the tile you want to keep. If there is a mud job with thinset between the mud and the tile, try to chisel the thinset off, leaving the bottom mud-job in tact. If you're lucky, you won't have to repair it and can start laying the new tile right away.
Q: I have never laid tiles before and I would like to work from the ceiling down. In the shower I am going to use thin set. the rest of the bathroom is green board. which I intended to use a tile adhesive.the reason I wanted to go from ceiling down is I think the layout will look better
Thank You all for your answers. saaanen I'll let you know how it comes out. I'm going to start at the bottom.
Q: are there any products made for removing grout off of tile because we forgot to clean the grout off of our tile and it dried over night and now its hard and is stuck pretty well. does anyone know of any acids or anything made for this?
use a small palm sander. Do not take it all the way down to the tile. Just 90% of the way and use goof off to finish it off. Good Luck
Q: I ripped up all the existing tile, it was small tiles that I had to chisel up. There is quite a bit of thinset that is bonded to the wood floor and its impossible to get it all up. If I try and chisel it all off I end up ripping up the wood and making it worse.I think the wood sub floor is sitting on another older piece of sub floor but i‘m not sure.What are my options here?- put cement board over it (do i need to put waterproof membrane?) and then tile it? If I do this the bathroom floor will be slightly higher then the hallway floor.- Can I use self leveler on the wood subfloor and then tile over it? it would probably be the ideal height.- Do I chance ripping up the subfloor and doing cement board and then tile?Am I missing any other options?
In the UK tile adhesive is made for cement and wooden floors combined as this has a latex type compound in it that makes it harden but stay pliable as well to allow for a bit of movement under the tile. If you have cleaned most of your thinset off and are left with some still on but not higher than say 4mm (preferably less) then I would say just to lay the tiles as if the floor was completely clean. If worried about how to lay the adhesive on an uneven floor do what I have done which is to apply the adhesive to the back of the tile first, using a tile cement applicator with ridges deeper than the high points of the thinset, flip the tile over and lay/tap/level into position. Don't walk on for 36 hrs minimum after laying.
Q: My mothers house has 9 tiles on her bathroom floor and I understand they are made with asbestos. Some of the tiles are starting to lift and I am concerned about how to remove and dispose of them, any suggestions?
Professionals seal off the room with heavy plastic and even have a separate chamber to change into white suits and respirator and then they shower afterwards . You shouldn't be messing with it!
Q: Yesterday I bought tile from menards and they are sticky on the backs of them, my question is do I need to use other glue as well? If so what kind of glue?
Peal and stick tile need no other type of glue. If fact , another glue may react to the glue on the tile. These work best when installed on new clean ply wood surface. A surface that hasn t been sealed by other glues or other substances. Best to use a heavy roller to help embed the glue on the back of the tile into the new surface. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.GL
Q: I am replacing the tile in my kitchen and having trouble getting the old tile up. The tiles are 12 inch squres, I‘m not sure what they are made of, something like linoleum I think. When it was installed it had pre-glued backing and I would like to know the easiest way to remove it. THANKS
Other answers are ok. You can avoid removing the tile entirely by using a concrete based liquid floor leveler. Works great and is self-leveling and easy to use. It dries very quickly and provides a solid, smooth surface to accept the new tile. If you do decide to remove the old tile, determine that it contains no asbestos before you proceed with any mechanical means of removal.

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