Polished tile Pilates stone series,6P009

Polished tile Pilates stone series,6P009

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: Pilates stone

Item No.: 6P009

Size: 600× 600mm / 800× 800mm

Thickness: 9.8mm

Surface: Polished

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.3 %

Polished tile Pilates stone series,6P009

Effect Picture:

Polished tile Pilates stone series,6P009

Packing details:

Size(mm)	PCS/CTN	M²/CTN	KGS/CTN	SQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt	4	1.44	28	1382.4
600×600-Double loading	4	1.44	30	1296
800×800	3	1.92	50	1036.8
1200×600	2	1.44	45	864
1200×600-Thin tile	3	2.16	22.5	2592

BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.

FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.

Q: I now want to match the tile and extend it into my living room and dining area. How would I go about finding the same tile?: yea take it to menards hd or lowes and ask the people in the flooring dept. if they have ever seen anything like it.

Q: My family and i are thinking about replacing our floor tile this year and putting in something nice. How difficult is it to take out the old tile. What would I do with the tile once it is pulled up? Order a construction dumpster? And do we have to pull up the base board?I have seen it done on DIY network, doesn‘t look that difficult and seems like we could save money. And any suggestions on good looking tile that we could get cheap, maybe an outlet store.What‘s the difficulty level: beginner, intermediate or expert.: If you do not plan on replacing the old baseboard with new, then you should gently remove it using a small pry bar and mallet. If you can't find the pry bar, a flat head screwdriver works alright.. Once you have pulled it away from the wall you might need to remove the nails to get it off without damage. If your tile has been on there since the beginning of time, you might have a little trouble removing it as back then the mastic used was quite different then what is used now. It really stuck! I am guessing you are talking about ceramic and not linoleum or vinyl tile. You can get a long handled scraper at just about any hardware store and they don't cost that much. That will save you allot of time. If you do not plan on saving the tiles, a 8 lb . sledge hammer will do the job of loosening the tiles from the floor but please make sure you wear eye protection. Then just scrape them up as you go along. If your tiles are the vinyl ,peel stick, or linoleum a good hot hair dryer works to soften the adhesive allowing you to scrape up the tiles. I'm sure a professional would recommend a heat gun though. I have removed and replaced both types and just to let you know it is not a easy or fun job. Wear rubber gloves if you can and keep a bottle of baby oil close by just in case you get the mastic on your hands.

Q: Is it possible to remove just the top row of the ceramic tile on my bathroom walls without damaging the remaining tile? I‘d like to replace the top row with glass tiles for a more updated look.: It is possible, but be prepared to replace the entire thing. Hammer and chisel is the only way.

Q: newly installed ceramic tiles did not adhere to the tile adhesive: were they walked on before they dried? .. or maybe the thinset wasnt put down thick enough to make a good bed or mixed incorrectly .. all i can think of .. sounds like a mess ..

Q: We have a big problem with our tiles in our bathroom, they wont stick.We have painted the floor with the pva. used (waterproof athesive) don‘t know if thats the correct name for it. my boyfriend has let his dad do the tiling as he knows how to do it. i told him to get a profesionals. but he wants he‘s dad. so now we have been having this problem. if any one knows what should we do or use different glue or something, that would really help., thanx: First off, PVA glue is a BIG NO NO! it is a craft glue and should never be used for installing any kind of tile unless its in a doll house! The glue will not stick to the tiles and will come up soon after you walk on them!!! Stick your finger in that glue and wait for it to dry, You will be able to peel it off and almost have the same shape of your finger! Pretty cool but not good for tile installation! What kind of tiles are they? Ceramic or stone? You should be using thinset to install the tile! VCT tile? you should be using VCT contact cement/glue! Remove the tiles, Peel any Glue off the tile and floor (should be very easy to do) and use the proper adhesive for the tile you have!

Q: I was looking at the glazed tiles at Lowes, they‘re so nice looking, and they‘ve got so many colors.I‘m looking to tile my living room floor...I‘ve read glazed isn‘t good for floors, it‘s more for walls and counter tops. Can anyone tell me about this? I don‘t have any experience with tiles, what is the norm, the standard for floor tiles?: I agree with the above answers. Tile in a living room is not what I would call common. However, if you are committed to going with tile, I would avoid anything with a high gloss or shiny finish since any scratches will show right away. If your living room doesn't get much traffic or you are careful with it, it probably isn't that big a concern. Tile is pretty tough so I wouldn't make my decision just based on that. However, I would also recommend going with something that looks a little more natural or stone-like. I'm no decorator but have recently remodeled our bathroom and we did a good bit of homework looking at tile options. Natural or stone are the popular looks right now. As another option, have you considered a laminate floor instead? There are a number of brands that look like wood, stone or tile. It can be a little more per square foot than tile (depending on the tile you buy), but the installation is 10 times easier. Also, there's other expenses associated with tiling a floor that bring the cost up to at least the same price as the laminate. Lastly, if you sell you house in the future, most people would not be surpised by a laminate floor in the living room but tile would be a bit different unless you were in a very hot climate or maybe located on the coast.

Q: We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.: Well, please take my advice as I used to work at a popular Australian tile franchise. Number one - make sure the porcelain you are laying is pre-sealed, as porcelain is a natural stone and is 'porous', so harsh staining can will occur if they are not sealed. If they are just 'Glazed Porcelain' tiles, they don't need to be 'sealed' as they are on a ceramic biscuit and just have a glazed protective coating, which are quite 'hardwearing'. In which they are 'ceramic'. Number two - YES!! you must fully take out all fixtures to lay in the bathroom and kitchen, tiles will almost usually be there many years more than a vanity or a fridge. If you replace your kitchen cabinetry, well all floor space should be tiled. Many people run into problems of the 'previous owner' not doing the job properly, and down the track they wan't the same tile.....well the life of a tile is around 4 years then they become extinct., even if you can get the same tile, it will not be of the same batch/shade. Trying to fix up half-hearted jobs isn't as easy as some people think!!! So please tile ALL floor area and order enough so you have a couple of spare boxes left over, for future repairs. Because you will never get that same tile batch/shade ever again!! You'll also make it easier for the next person who lives there. Also, if you find out that if it is true polished porcelain and there not pre-sealed, buy a 'reputable' tile sealer and seal them before laying. As when you grout the tile (if there not sealed) you will create a grout haze around all your joints and will be a nightmare to remove and your lovely porcelain won't look so 'lovely'!! HAVE FUN......

Q: Why should the tiles be soaked before the tiles?: Tiles of water need to split the water absorption in terms of water absorption <0.5% in the paving when there is no need to soak, and kitchen and bathroom with glazed tiles and tiles, water absorption is generally greater than 10% It is necessary to carry out soaking (if the porcelain wall for the brick, water absorption of less than 0.5%, of course, no need to soak). As consumers asked in the morning, you can have the following answer: Eno polished brick water absorption rate of 0.5% or less, can be ignored for the non-absorbent, the bubble will be the surface of the anti-fouling wax washed, the construction of poor protection It will pollute or draw the brick.

Q: Can you give me your opinion? White beveled subway tiles with dark gray marble floors, or mahogany brown large rectangular floors with matching size walls in beige tile? I was thinking of adding a glass border for accent, the tile store lady told me to put it up high, one right below the last cut of tiles as opposed to between the faucet and mirror. Do I still stick with the white toilets and bathtub? PLEASE help!Thanks: Hi Mrs K, I would choose as you said, White Subway tile. But, I would choose Light Grey for floor tile. With a very light color grey grout as well. I agree to add the glass accent tile above within the white subway tile. I would choose the white toilet and bathtub. Any other colors that you choose are easy to match with this color scheme ( lilac or green towels are a thought that look great with the white grey combo). Over the years, all your accessories can be easily matched and changed cost effectively.

Q: I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?: If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...

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