• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt  Serie  CMAX-SS074 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt  Serie  CMAX-SS074 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt  Serie  CMAX-SS074

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt Serie CMAX-SS074

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
700 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt Serie White Color CMAX-SS074 is one of the most popular color of Soluble Salt Serie, which is one popular serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line&Packing 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt  Serie  CMAX-SS074

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt  Serie  CMAX-SS074 


 FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.  What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

Q:We want to put ceramic tile on our front porch, its fully covered but we were told you had to put porceline tile outside not ceramic. Does anyone know or have you done this?
Actually, it can work. But once the linoleum is there, the tile will be worthless. It will be easier and cheaper to just rip up the entire floor tile and all and start over than it will be to clean all the adheasive off of the tile. If you are sure you want the linoleum anyway, you can go to a place like Home Depot, and get a floor leveler system that is ok to be used over tile. They have it, I have purchased it before. If the tile is glazed (shiny and slipery rather than rough feeling) then you will more than likely need to remove the glazing with sanding or grinding, or etch the glazing with an acid compound such as a muriatic acid mix. I have done this sucessfully when installing 12 x 12 natural stone tile over existing glazed tile in a rental unit before. It work VERY well, as the original tile was in excellent shape and had a concrete backerboard under. Once you have the glazing etched or removed, if needed, and have the floor leveled... you don't absulutely have to, but it would be an excelent idea to install a special plywood underlayment designed for use under linoleum or vinyl flooring. This will have to be glued to the prepared tile surface with a special adheasive. They have this at the Home Center as well. After that, it is just as simple as glueing the flooring down just as any other installation. The reason I wrote all that was to show that it is in fact possible and the outcome is very satisfactory if done right. In the end though, most times it will be easier to rip it up and install the linoleum. Hope that helps.
Q:Glass glue and tiles
Glass glue and the United States seam agent glue gun can be universal, but the real porcelain must use a special glue gun, South Korea imported porcelain stitch without glue gun such as: Chunlan winter rain porcelain dress
Q:I have a purple tub and purple tile through out the bathroom ,how do I change the color ,is there paint I can buy
there are special enamel paints just for glass and tile. try a craft store.
Q:We‘re putting in new porcelain tile floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Should the tile go under the refrigerator? Should tiles go in before or after the new vanities in the bathroom? Any other general tips for a first-time tiler?
Well, please take my advice as I used to work at a popular Australian tile franchise. Number one - make sure the porcelain you are laying is pre-sealed, as porcelain is a natural stone and is 'porous', so harsh staining can will occur if they are not sealed. If they are just 'Glazed Porcelain' tiles, they don't need to be 'sealed' as they are on a ceramic biscuit and just have a glazed protective coating, which are quite 'hardwearing'. In which they are 'ceramic'. Number two - YES!! you must fully take out all fixtures to lay in the bathroom and kitchen, tiles will almost usually be there many years more than a vanity or a fridge. If you replace your kitchen cabinetry, well all floor space should be tiled. Many people run into problems of the 'previous owner' not doing the job properly, and down the track they wan't the same tile.....well the life of a tile is around 4 years then they become extinct., even if you can get the same tile, it will not be of the same batch/shade. Trying to fix up half-hearted jobs isn't as easy as some people think!!! So please tile ALL floor area and order enough so you have a couple of spare boxes left over, for future repairs. Because you will never get that same tile batch/shade ever again!! You'll also make it easier for the next person who lives there. Also, if you find out that if it is true polished porcelain and there not pre-sealed, buy a 'reputable' tile sealer and seal them before laying. As when you grout the tile (if there not sealed) you will create a grout haze around all your joints and will be a nightmare to remove and your lovely porcelain won't look so 'lovely'!! HAVE FUN......
Q:No more tiles on the table, you‘re behind on points but can place your last tile while opponent still has tiles they can‘t place. Thanks!
If out of tiles wins, then why even keep score? The highest total, after adjustment wins. In competitive play, the total of the tiles left on the opponents racks is doubled ad added to the score of the player who went out. If neither player goes out, then each player subtracts the tile total on his own rack from hi own score. @ Jay: not quite. Sam also recieves 6 points from Bills rack. Game box rules.
Q:I redid my floor in november using the sticky tiles I purchased from Family Dollar. I wanted to take the tiles off. Is there a easy way to do this without spending lots of money?
The previous owner of our house, unfortunately, tried to renovate and improve the recently refinished and refurbished original clear-vertical-grain fir floors by sticking self-adhesive vinyl tiles to them to create area rugs of faux parquet and faux marble. After scraping, heating, and using a variety of solvents, I hit upon this far easier and relatively non-toxic method: dry ice. Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
Q:What is the best tiles?
Champion, Dongpeng Tiles, Nobel Tiles, Mona Lisa Tiles, Marco Polo Tiles and other top ten brands Not the best, only the most appropriate, different parts of the selection, the characteristics of different tiles, there is no need to be the best, neither economic nor nicely suitable for paving parts
Q:Can you lay down those adhesive floor tiles on top of existing tiles? If so, what kind of prep do you need to do to make sure they stick properly. I‘m not sure what type of tiles are in place now, but they are similiar to the types used in schools and other institutions. Very cheap, flexible, and bland. I want to lay something down in place of them, but don‘t want to rip them up. Is that possible? Thanks!
That partially depends on how heavy the tiles are and the reinforcement of your wall. I remember when asking about putting tiling in my kitchen that for large areas of wall tile you need a special drywall or wall reinforcement. You may also need a special adhesive to add in addition to the self adhesive since the floor tiles will be put up in a manner that they are not truly designed for.
Q:I have ceramic tile in my bathroom and I don‘t like it. It‘s extra slippery and very cold in the winter. Yes I do use a rug but the parts that are exposed are cold. I want to put those peel-n-stick tiles on top of them, but what do I have to do to prepare the floor if it‘s even possible to do this? Thanks in advance for any tips and advice!
If you are going to be in your house forever, use carpet. If not, do not remove it as it is an asset to your property. If you use peel and stick in a bathroom, they will eventually start warping and lose their grip. I doubt the peel and stick tiles will be any better regarding temperature than the tiles you have now. Tiles are valuable when you go to sell and I would advise you not to change that. Use a rug if you want, but do not hide or change the tiles.
Q:We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)

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