• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003 System 3
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003 System 4
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003 is one of the most popular color of Soluble Salt Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, 

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA001/002/003

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

         —— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own                design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000            pcs. 

 

Trade Terms:

• Payment: T/T 50% in advance, balance against copy of T/T,Weston Union, L/C etc.(Payment can be negotiale, kindly to

  contact us)

• Production Lead Time: 15- 20 after deposit paid.

• Shipping Methods: by sea, samples can be sent by express.

• FOB Shipping Port: Foshan, Heshan

• If you want to deal with EXW/CIF/CNF term instead of FOB, please specify. Otherwise, FOB price will be quoted under

  inquiry.

 

Our Service:
• Your inquiry related to our product & price will be replied within 24hours.
• Well-trained & experienced staff are to answer all your inquiries professional in English.
• Working time: 24 hours on line
• OEM is highly welcomed. 
• Your business relationship with us will be confidential to any third party.
• Good after-sale service offered, please get back if you got question.

 

Suggestion:
Please kindly check the packages after you receive the goods, if you got wrong products/ quality problem/ short q'ty, please

get back to us as priority. Please note that you need to send us pictures of the defective items concerning this, and we will

consider to replace or refund accordingly.


Q: Just started tiling my tub surround and I have two very similar layouts graphed up. The actual colors of the tile and listello will be different than the ones shown in the pictures, so don‘t look at the computerized colors since they aren‘t accurate. The layout however, is pretty darn close to what I am planning on doing.
In any tile job, if it doesn't end at a wall you should use a cap tile like in the first picture or a bullnose, whichever fits your particular tile layout. The both have one rounded edge that dies down to the adjoining wall and finishes the job off. If you just leave the tile itself the only option to finish off the tile edge is to lay grout up to it, caulk it, or run some kind of molding up the edge. It costs more to run the cap tile, but in the long run the expense of tiling the wall supports the added expense of cap.
Q: Our new kitchen tile floor was grouted last Thursday (almost a week ago). They did a poor job removing grout from the tile surface - very rough ceramic tile. I‘ve washed and scrubbed, it is cemented on. On top of that I don‘t like the grout color.Nothing has been sealed. So I got some acid wash and a grout stain from Home Depot. The stain says the tile should have been sealed prior to using it, I dont understand why that is. So I dont stain the tile? I‘m afraid if I sealed the tile it would seal the grout, so seems like a bad idea.And the acid wash... is this going to ruin the grout itself? How careful do I need to be about not getting in on the grout? Unfortunately its a large area, kitchen and dining area. 12‘ x 30‘. I‘ll be scrubbing a long time.Any suggestions to make this easier?Thanks!
Wait a minute. If the tile is a natural stone, it should have been sealed prior to grouting to prevent the grout from seeping into the stone. If it's ceramic or porcelain tile, sealing is normally not required. When grouting, it is common practice to remove the excess grout as you go so the stuff doesn't build up and dry on the tile. This is what happened in your kitchen. Consult with your local tile supply or hardware store for the correct product, then use it exactly as directed. It is true that a vinegar solution will remove grout haze from tile, but if there are chunks of grout stuck to the tile you'll need to carefully remove them and then work on the spot with the vinegar. While it may be more work, I'd try the vinegar on a small area before using harsh chemicals. Now, you can buy grout stain that will work if the grout has not been sealed. If it has been recently sealed, you'll have a hard time with the stain. Good luck.
Q: To any DIY‘ers out there!My kitchen has a white tile backsplash and these decorative fruit motifs here and there. (you remember that trend?)There are only eight of them strategically placed, but I‘d really prefer that there were none, and just the plain white like the rest of the tiles. I can‘t really aford to retile the whole backsplash right now, so my question is .. Is there an effective way to cover them or paint them?
Absolutely! okorder / And here's a link for ceramic tile paint: If you find that painting is just too much work, you may want to consider going to Home Depot or Rona. They have these new funky stickers made to stick directly over ceramic tiles... and they last! Not as long as painting, but it will tide you over unitl you redo the backsplash in ceramic or whatever..... Have you considered the new metal tiles you can get now? If you want some info on metal tiles, just email me.
Q: I have a 15x15 tile that is on the floor in front of a gas fireplace (never been used) that has a hairline crack in it. The tile is one of 4 on the floor and matches 8 others that ring the face of the gas fireplace, the bathrooms and the kitchen. I cannot find the same tile to replace it. There is no elevation difference across the crack.Is there a method to fill the hairline crack so it doesn‘t stand out like a sore thumb?
If you must replace it. (because it is not yours and you will have to pay) It can be matched very closely as 15 is not common replace the 4. Being in a different area the difference should no show. Remove the grout around the tile with a grout remover (its a scraper, ask at the hardware store). It can also be removed with a Dremmel tool and carbide tips. Use a center punch and hammer to crack the offending tile into pieces and then pick and scrape the tile and old mastic out. You have to get it ALL out. Be sure not to use surrounding tiles for leverage. You can then place new mastic and eyeball the tile for proper placement or purchase tile spacers when you get the grout removal tool. You should measure how wide the grout lines are. Use a trowel that places mastic at the proper height (measure how thick it is under the other tiles once you have your tile out and the hole is clean) for example if your mastic under the remaining tiles is 1/8th inch that is the notch to use. When placing the tile place enough pressure to make it level with the other tiles. wait 1 day with NO TRAFFIC and re-grout.
Q: Can I use talavera tiles for this? The porch is concrete and was painted at one time. Looks like the last owners removed the paint, but then left it as is. Is talavera tile ok to use on an outdoor porch. I don‘t know much about it, I‘ve only seen pictures and think it‘s beautiful! Thanks!!
any tile you like is okay to use. my advice would be to prepare the surface by cleaning it thoroughly then using a concrete adhesive before setting your tile with white thinset mortar. after grouting , be sure to use a sealer to prevent moisture getting under the tiles. the sunlight will expand the water and cause vaporlock that will pop your tiles. then maintain by resealing at least once ayear.
Q: I don‘t have a ton of money for my kitchen but I feel I can do some minor things. I) Orange countertop MUST go. I am seriously considering due the lack of counter space in the kitchen, what you see is my only countertop space, is move the fridge to the wall on the right, which you cant realy see in this pic, but there is an inside interior wall im going to set the fridge against, and then extend the countertop the wall, and put a base cabinet below it, and one above it to be the same size vertically as the one next to the fridge. A neutral beige-ish countertop, and then probably a range top thing for above the stove. Replace old sink faucet too.My question about making a tile backsplash for above the sink, would ie be more logical to measure it out, and put the tiles on a piece of plywood and screw that 2 the wall instead of grouting the wall and tiles affixed to the wall directly.
With all due respect to others answers, some valid, and to you, and even to the installer, and after having installed thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and miles of grout lines, I have a few things to offer. First of all the installer may have just been a SUB, and not at all liable for what YOU chose. Second: Without knowing the dealer I suggest that any Decent / vaild / reliable Tile sellers would currently have Grout samples of the REAL color choices. Those are usually in a demo kit type form in 1/4 inch strips, maybe 4 inches long. With no offense to you, choosing a grout color from a card is like choosing a paint color from a card, and I've applied thousand of gallons of paint as well. At this point the tile grout stain may be your best option, and may in fact work for awhile over sealed grout. in any case it will be an issue you may have to maintain, just as you would a normal cleaning program for any tile surface and even sealer isn't a forever thing. Personally I don't use sealer. I use a quality poly blend, sanded grout, that once set needs no more than proper cleaning on a regular basis. Steven Wolf
Q: Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!
It's a great look you are going to love it!! Here's what I know. Buy the triangular wedges type spacers. The will hold the tiles up in position better than the X type. you pull these out once the tile is set. Be sure that you start your accent pieces directly 1/2 space over from your tiles, you don't want the lines to accidentally match up, that just blows the whole line appeal out of the park. So cut your first accent so that it ends in the middle of your lower tile. That should give you the proper off set. Be sure to use mastic especially designed for wall applications. Standing up on the wall, it must be more stiff from the start than your flat surfaces. Same goes for the grout, mix it just a tad more firm than you'd like to work with, it will stay up better. Nothing worse than the grout running down. That's all I know. I've done it a few times and am always so proud. What a savings!!
Q: There are 5 red tiles, 4 blue tiles 3 green tiles. whats the probablitiy of reaching into the bag and getting a blue tile and then, without replacing that tile, reaching into the bag again and getting a red tile?
5+4+3=12 4/12=1/3 1/3X5/11=5/33 so, 5/33 is, if I am correct, your answer.
Q: i have ceramic tiles that are loose hollow underneath
Many possible reasons why.. To little adhesive used ( usually a thin set not a grout) .Thin set to dry. Thin set to wet. Under supported tile such as incorrect under layment.Under layment installed incorrect. Incorrect adhesive for the job. Thin set skimmed over during setting and didn t bond to the tile. Installer didn t press and twist the tile into the thin set correctly. Some one walked on the tile to soon after setting and the bond is broke between the thin set and the tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there.
Q: Dont worry about looks with the dollar tile just want to know pricing pretty much on the tile and how expensive it is.
If you are doing the tile work yourself, it will be cheaper than having one of those fiberglass shower enclosures put in. You are looking at the cost of tile (at $1/sqft.), grout ($10 or less), permabase/durock ($9 per 3x5 sheet), mastic ($30 for high quality), and caulk ($4), to get the job done. On an average size shower, this will bring your total material bill in at right around $200. This is based on entirely ripping out your old shower walls (back to the studs), and building an entirely new shower. A complete rennovation for $200. This is what I do for a living, and I can honestly tell you that you will save tons if you are handy enough to do this yourself. One side note on the pre-fab showers (fiberglass, urethane, etc) - we get a lot of calls to come out and remove mold from these types of enclosures. On most that I've seen there are a lot of corners and small nooks that moisture gathers up and sits in. Just something to watch out for should you go that method. Good luck to you, either way.

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