• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 3
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 4
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 5
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 is one of the most popular color of Soluble Salt Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

         —— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 


Why Us:

• More than 9 years tile exporting experience,RMB 200 million sales every year.

• More than 13 years tile factory running-well management experience.

 

Trade Terms:

• Payment: T/T 50% in advance, balance against copy of T/T,Weston Union, L/C etc.(Payment can be negotiale, kindly to

  contact us)

• If you want to deal with EXW/CIF/CNF term instead of FOB, please specify. Otherwise, FOB price will be quoted under

  inquiry.

 

Our Service:
• Your inquiry related to our product & price will be replied within 24hours.
• Your business relationship with us will be confidential to any third party.

 


Q: Would they be easy to remove and not damage the floor (ugly linoleum) when I have to move out at the end of the year?
Damage? No. But how are you going to get them and the adhesive off when you go?
Q: Someone spilled a cleaning liquid on my marble tiles and the glaze came off. Does anyone know how to get the shine back to normal. Right now some parts look regular, and other parts are white. With a certain angle you can clearly see the glaze is taken off.
Normal okorder
Q: How to identify the quality of ceramic tile and standard
Ceramic tile quality identification and standards are as follows: (1) glazed: carefully watch the glazed, glazed should be smooth, delicate; (2) color: a few pieces of ceramic tile together, in the light under a careful look, a good product color is very small. The color between the products are basically the same: the poor product color difference, the color shades of different; (3) porcelain degree: the color of the tiles, color clear and natural, that porcelain high degree of color is not clear, the porcelain degree is low; 4) color: color patterns to be delicate, realistic, no obvious lack of color, broken, dislocation and other defects;
Q: We just bought a house and the bathroom tile looks terrible. Its not in bad shape, I just dont like the ugly floral pattern. Since we had to spend a lot of money on other projects in the house we dont have a lot to spend on re-tiling, The bathroom is small, about 5ftx4ft of floor, so I thought peelstick would be a good option. The tiles currently on the floor are peel and stick, should I remove them all before I apply the new ones? or can I just give them a good cleaning and lay the new tiles over them?
You are in for a long project if you try to pull those tiles up. If they are all firmly down (no corners peeling) it is going to be a chore to get them all up. They will not come off in even chunks. If you do decide to take this on, you might want to consider real tile after you pour a floor leveler down (vs trying to replace a new peel and stick on what will be an uneven surface.) My advice is for a quick fix, peel and stick over the current floor (off center the tiles from the ones down now). When you decide to do a more major overhaul, 2 layers of peel and stick tiles with not be any more difficult to remove than one layer. It's a quick fix and should work fine for you. I did both my laundry and basement peel and stick over existing peel and stick tiles 2 years ago--no problems in what is a moisture filled area. Clean the floor really well though with a vinegar and water solution. Good luck.
Q: i have the material that is needed to tile my home but cannot pay for it to be done so i need information on how to do this
start by measuring to the center of ea room, [from each wall] use a chalk line to snap a line , so you end up with a plus + line in each room start at the corner of the plus, [square line] lay the tile, from the center out, cut the tile at the wall,s
Q: How can I find out how many tiles I need to buy?
It is sold by the s/f ,even if you buy a 8x8 tile for example. Some places will only sell in whole boxes.You ll need extra for cuts and waste anyway. When buying from the big box places ,look and make sure you get all the same dye lot and run number. If you buy from the mom and pop store, you ll get the same dye lot always. Should you need help figuring the area send me the measurements and tile size and I ll figure it for you. Go thru my avatar to get my e mail GL
Q: We‘re renovating an old house, and the ceramic tile on the bathroom walls is just awful. I‘d like to replace the wall tile with beadboard. The tiles appear to be mortared directly onto the drywall. Is it a good idea to install the beadboard directly over the ceramic tile? Or should we chip of the tile or remove the lower portion of the drywall? I‘d like to do this as easily as possible, but not at the risk of shoddy workmanship.Also - all the beadboards I‘ve looked at are either painted or primed on the front surface, with a bare wood surface on the rear (glued to the wall). Is it advisable to paint/prime the rear surface as well before installation? With all the steam and moisture in a bathroom, I can envision the panels buckling. Is there a particular paint/primer that seals off from moisture particularly well?
I'm just a DIYer but I've laid some tile and installed beadboard (both the panels and the planks). I am getting ready to do exactly what you ask about.. vering tile with beadboard. In my situation I have a single row of tiles along the floor and then they run up and around the tub into the large field. That field is staying, for now. My issue is if I leave the tiles, which I am leanng towards, how do I frame out arund them. The tiles along the floor aren't a big deal, I'll just fir out from the top but along the vertical row I need to figure out a good looking transition and trim....but there's no reason you can's cover the tile if the surface is sound, and the area is dry. You are probably using the panels because you need to glue directly to the tile...and there may be some buckling, not because its a bathroom but just because this material can buckle. The panels are a better choice, imo, because the are thicker and have some adjustment to them. They aren't hard to cut or install and I think they just look better. You probably don't need to seal the individual boards, but as others have noted, a coat of something, anything really, on the backside of the panels won't hurt. Balance that, however, against the loss of adhesion for your glue.
Q: I am building a deck outside my living room am#92;nd the dimensions are 8‘ wide by 24‘ long.It is 14‘ up at the highest point as I am on a hill. I‘m using 2 by 6 joists with 2 by 12 headers. Here is what I want to do: someone told me to use a 1/4 in slope over 8 ft. for water run off. I want to tile the deck. Iwant to know what size plywood I should use and if there is some kind of waterproof fibreboard I can use as a base for the tile in lieu of laying down rubber for the base. I dont want sand or pitch due to the weight factor. Is there something fairly lightweight and waterproof suitable for a base for the tile? If so what is it called? and where can i get it? Thanks.
Use treated 3/4 inch thick plywood that comes in size 8' x 4'.Then after thats on put contractor grade plastic paper probably 8mill thick;thicker plastic the better.When you put this over the plywood you still have to put the cement board on for the tile to adhere to.All this can be purchased at your lumber store,Home Depot or Lowes,etc..To help keep moisture from getting under neath..3M sells a under coat spray paint in the can for cars;you can spray all the wood that you see under the deck when finished(buy at auto parts store).
Q: I almost bought porcelin tile but I know ceramic tile is much more popular, what about the endurance factor between the two? I want to get something that will last and still look good.Does anyone know about flooring, and could tell me which is best?
Porcelain is a more dense tile with less water absorption. I prefer porcelain over ceramic. In most cases when/if you get a chip in porcelain it is much more noticeable. In any case, your taste will most likely determine your choice. However, tile has ratings, i.e., 1 thru 5. 1 being less durable and 5 being most durable. 1's and 2's would be a wall tile and 3-5 would be a floor tile. Ask your supplier when you see something you like. If he doesn't know, go somewhere else.
Q: Hi,We put porcelain tiles on our kitchen floor.Unfortunately the contractor did not do a great job. He did not clean it properly and now the grout is all over the tiles. its been 1 month the they put the tiles. How can I take grout off the tiles? I got a grout cleaner from Home depot but its not working as it should be. Please advise
You can use Muratec acid, but use it carefully. Wear rubber gloves, and use it slowly, try and take it off in small layers. Don't pour it on and let it set too long. Porcelain has a continuous color all the way through, so there might be a little dulling in the sheen from the glaze being removed, but just re-seal the tile. If your contracted through a tile outlet, and they recommended the contractor, he is responsible for the install and final product. Take photos before you try to clean it, and take them to the store and have them repair it. There is no sense in you trying to fix what should have been done right the first time. I have had to go behind other installers that did a slop job -grout lines crooked, tiles cut wrong, wavy floors to repair them-sometimes having to completely rip up the whole floor and start over at the company expense. Be sure when having any contracted work done that you are satisfied with the final work, once you sign off on it and pay them, you are releasing them from obligation from that point on.

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