• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 3
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 4
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 System 5
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032 is one of the most popular color of Soluble Salt Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt SA030/031/032

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

         —— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 


Why Us:

• More than 9 years tile exporting experience,RMB 200 million sales every year.

• More than 13 years tile factory running-well management experience.

 

Trade Terms:

• Payment: T/T 50% in advance, balance against copy of T/T,Weston Union, L/C etc.(Payment can be negotiale, kindly to

  contact us)

• If you want to deal with EXW/CIF/CNF term instead of FOB, please specify. Otherwise, FOB price will be quoted under

  inquiry.

 

Our Service:
• Your inquiry related to our product & price will be replied within 24hours.
• Your business relationship with us will be confidential to any third party.

 


Q: hi i live in a upstairs flat,and i want to tile my hall with ceramic tiles,i did a square 4 foot patch to see if the tile would stick or would come loose,well they did come loose,so how do i prepare floorboards for tiling over so the grout wont crack when i walk on the floor thanks
Any tile laid on a flexible base is doomed to early failure. If you are unwilling to pull up the wood floor, do enough structural change and put down a stiff underlayment, put down a flexible floor such as carpet or vinyl.
Q: Bai Peng tiles origin? how is it?
You have not provided the brand we have tested, to provide you with the method of selecting the tile, I hope to help you. 1 election origin Almost tiles on the market come from two places: Guangdong and Shandong. Guangdong brick overall quality is better than Shandong brick, domestic brands of ceramic tile origin is also generally from Guangdong, so a simple choice of Guangdong brick. (Shandong bricks are also good quality, but more need to blink of an eye). 2 to see flatness Flatness is very critical, if the flatness is very poor, it is difficult to shop in the edge of each tile are not the edge of the gap, there is not only the impact of visual effects affected, serious and even cause Ge (gè) feet. Figure tiles flatness is very poor gap is too large Method one: the same paragraph of the two tiles on the face of the table, his hands pinching side, observe the other side of the tilt, tilt the smaller, the higher the flatness. (This method is suitable for fully flattened bricks that do not apply to antique tiles and bricks with special craftsmanship)
Q: I want to lay tile on a house I just bought. What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tile and which one would be the best fit for my house? The tile is going to be in the living room, dinning room, and kitchen. Also, how much is it going to cost me for labor to lay down the tile? Total square feet is going to be around 600 sq ft.
Both can be equally good or bad. Porcelain is usually a harder bodied tile than a ceramic. Overall you ll get a more consistent sizing w/ porcelains. Most all porcelains now are a glazed porcelain as opposed to the real good color thru out bodied porcelains.You ll have to see a tile to fully under stand the difference. What you need to do is compare apples to apples as far as the ratings(0-4). Using a 3/4 rated tile only in the house. This is a slip resistance rating.Then there is tinsel strength ( breakage) . And last is ohms or scratch resistance. Get the fact sand do some comparison shopping. As far as the labor, it can run from3-5$ a s/f depending on the area you live in. This won t include setting materials ( thin sets , grouts, cement board if needed) These are taxable items and each jobs vary as you may or may not need the cement board if your on a slab floor for example. Any other questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications there GL
Q: a few tiles are cracked near the sink. How can i fix it temporarily ( is it worth it?) or should i replace the tiles or the whole thing? how would i go about doing that?
If you can find the same tile, or even very similar tile, you should take up the exising tile and replace it with new ones. You will need to start by removing the grout between the tiles. You can buy a grout removal tool at most hardware stores, but it is 10 times easier if you have a rotary tool like a dremel or rotozip. With the grout near the effected tiles removed, you can use a rigid putty knife to pry the damaged tiles off the countertop surface. You may need to use a hammer to tap the tip of the putty knife under the broken tiles. Try not to touch undamaged tiles! Once the tiles are out, use the same putty knife (and hammer if necessary) to remove all or most of the mortar and grout from the exposed surface. You will need to mix new thinset or mortar to lay the new tile in. Lowes and Home Depot usually sell thinset and grout in smaller packages for small jobs or repair work. If the tiles are small, you will not be able to properly spread the mortar. Put a dollop of mortar in the center of where each tile should go and press the tile ontop of it to spread the mortar around. If it leaks out the side and comes up to the surface of the tile, make sure to clean it up before it dries. Once the new tiles are in place, let the mortar dry for a few hours (longer if it is humid). You can then mix the grout and spread it in the gaps near the new tile. Let the grout dry for about 10 or 15 minutes and then wipe the tiles clean and smooth the new grout with a damp sponge. The mortar and grout can be mixed with just water, especially for such a small job. Some stores might try to get you to buy the liquid additives for each. These are designed to keep the mortar and grout pliable for longer periods of time and are not necesssary for small jobs. Good Luck. If you need more info on a given step just say so.
Q: would cover a 12 ft by 15 ft floor if you choose to use 10 in by 12 in tiles?
you need 216 tiles !
Q: We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
1 - Thinset is the adhesive. You do not need to prep drywall with anything. 2 - You should measure the entire length of where you are tiling. Then divide that in half. That is your starting point. You'll want to lay out the tiles before actually attaching them to make sure you have at least 1/2 tile on either end when you are finished. If you have less than 1/2 tile on either end, move your center point one way or the other. The final centerpoint will be the space between your first two tiles. 3 - Do a straight line from the cabinet that sticks out more. You'll then need to trim the tiles when it narrows but it won't be noticible with only 1/2 inch. 4 - If it's for your wall, you don't need any coating. If it was going to be your countertop you'd need a clear sealant.
Q: Im trying to figure out how to apply (vct) Vinyl tile squares? Whats the best way to start a project? What adhesive do you use if any? Is it like ceramic with some form of grout? etc!
Look you don't have to start in the middle of the room measure across the room. Measure your sticky back tile. Figure out how much you will have to cut off of the two peices of tile on either wall. try to make it so you are cutting the exact same amount off of both peices. Once you have figured it out and laid down the first on one side go across the room. Remeasure the last peice to make sure, if it a little different it is ok. It will look as if both wall peices go under youe wall. and you won't have a full peice at one end and a half peice at the other or just a sliver on one end. Oh yeah make sure you pull up your base board so you can cover any gaps against your wall first, because usually most houses start off somewhat square, but you will still have a small crack to cover up. You might want to consider also putting down a shoe molding (just a thought). Use something like a rolling pin to apply the tile to the floor well. DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE TILE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THAT IT IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE. Try to get the seams as tight as possible. You should do fine just take your time, and you will probably also cut a few tiles the wrong size. It is ok, Use a box knife to cut your tile from the back of it. Score a line, not necessarily all the way through, then simply break it, then come down the front with your knife to make the precise cut the rest of the way through. Have fun.
Q: Should I put in a ceramic tile shower or cultured marble shower? Which would provide a better return when selling the house?
Marble Shower Tile
Q: What is the use of ceramic tile?
2, de-alcoholated TC: curing shrinkage is small, water immersion off small, most of the substrate without corrosion; on the fluorocarbon profiles, steel and white marble, poor adhesion; at high temperatures, due to the reaction rate Fast, resulting in the formation of alcoholic small molecules can not be volatile in time, and the formation of bubbles affect the construction quality. Deoxime type TW: good adhesion can be in the appropriate high temperature construction, will not produce bubbles; copper and mirror industry with micro-rot. And shrinkage than alcohol type. Use restrictions: non-structural adhesive prohibited for use in structural assembly; Should not be used for oozing grease, plasticizer or other solvent building materials surface; should not be used for frost or wet surface, long buried in the underground or long-term immersion occasions; should not be used for paint the surface may be due to paint cracking or Peeling off caused by sealing failure; should not be used for direct contact with food or vulnerable to mechanical wear; not suitable for building materials, surface temperature below 4 ℃ or higher than 40 ℃ when the construction. 3, deacidification type: acid glue should not be used for cement, stone, Because the acid to produce acetic acid curing, and cement, stone and other alkaline materials on the surface reaction to form a chalk-like material, and cause off; substrate expansion coefficient is larger, with displacement or vibration, plastic construction (1) high temperature sizing, high temperature curing; curing speed too fast, the use of high-temperature, high-temperature curing, (2) sizing too thin, less than 6 mm; (3) foam rod (bar) damage caused by foaming (opening), the release of methanol from the colloid in the rate of bleeding, so that the gasification of methanol after the gasification; Type foam); there is water; foam material is incompatible, chemical reaction; (4) sizing irregular, repeated scratched.
Q: Does all kinds of tiles calculate the formula per square meter? For example, a few pieces of 300X600 is a square meter?
1 divided by 0.3 and then divided by the number of 0.6 is the answer you want

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