• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Due to its simple design, this model has been exported to many countries in Middle East and Africa, and is also widely used in China domestic market. It could be widly used for interior floor and wall.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, EN 14411

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 500x500mm, 7pcs/Ctn, 890 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1512m2/20’Fcl

 

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5502

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 60*60 available?

—— Yes, the size 60*60 with many models is available. For some model, the size 80*80 is also available.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q: How can you cover ugly wall tiles??
a okorder /... read this you can do it yourself.. pratice on a piece of plywood outside.. and then with what you learn you can now create a wall that will make you happy. ok gilermo
Q: On those tiles, can you skate on them with ice skates. I was thinking about getting them but I wasn‘t sure. Last but not least, is there a different kind of tiles that are cheaper. Thanks!
I think I understand your question, the tiles you can't skate on unless you have roller hockey skates, it's called sport court. I play roller hockey and ice and the tiles for roller SUCK! If I were you I'd just go fin a certain kind of paint I can't recall the name of the brand, but paint the garrage floor with it and you can skate in there and stick handle if you have enough room. Hope this helps
Q: How can I remove ceramic tiles from a bathroom wall without damage the wall itself, as I want to paint the wall. Would steam help loosen the glue used?
If you are just concerned about removing the tiles, and don't care if they are damaged during the removal, then chisel and hammer would work. However! If you are trying to keep those old tiles in tact, it's a much more difficult process. Secondly, you said the walls were plaster (and lathe behind that?) Once those walls are compromised, it's a lot of work to re-plaster. Other options: 1. Call a company who resurfaces old tiles with another colored ceramic coating, 2) Cut out those sections of walls and install other materials, like granite, abbatibi (sp?) , fiberglass sections, or 3) pull down the old walls, put up new greenboard and re-tile with the tiles of your choice. If you want an excellent result, I'd go with the third choice, but it is A LOT of work. A few weeks if you are working part time and really know what you are doing. If it's not really important to have it last for say, more than 7 years, I'd just have a company re-coat the tile. It'll take them 1-4 days and will cost equal to or less than the other options. Good Luck! It' an ambitious project.
Q: In order to be able to tile the windows (instead of the white moulding) like in the second kitchen, what steps would I have to take? Just remove the moulding on the inside then tile?
You are exactly right just remove the old moldings and you will have to make sure you fill any cracks for water to get in but you just install the tile instead of new molding.
Q: standard shiny, white 4x4 tiles. I want to redo the bathroom stalls, but heard from some people that it could take forever, and that i might end up messing up the the drywall? to me it sounds simple... just get a spatula or something of the sort and scrape off the tiles... is that how it goes or is it more difficult than that? has anyone out there done this? what tools would i need? what type of tile cutter do you suggest? i‘d like to replace the tiles with something bigger... maybe 10x10 tiles?
It okorder /... You can also just nail the WonderBoard over the top of the greenboard, but you will need the bull-nose tile to finish the edges of the board. I looked closely and I believe that is how it is done in the picture that I posted. The cement board is on top of the greenboard instead of the greenboard being cut out. You need to let a tile professional do this for you. You could remove the old tile and let the professional do the backer and the new tiles. If you watch him work, you could learn how to do it yourself.
Q: I want to install Travertine tile to a fireplace surround. This would be travertine tile directly to sheetrock, painted with flat latex paint. This areawould never see moisture other than something the wet grout and sealer. Is this OK? Will the sheetrock hold the weight of the tiles? What prep is needed? Or am I asking for trouble?
NO. You need to put cement board under the tile. You can buy 3 x 5 sheets that are 1/4 thick. If you put it directly onto the sheet rock they will fall off and/or crack. Do it right the first time
Q: i‘m having an investigatory project and its all about making tiles out of broken glass and rice hull. help me pls.
sounds odd, I wouldn't use broken glass in an indoor tile, nor rice hulls on an outdoor tile. you may be able to laminate (make layers of) rice hulls in mortar on lower layers and then embed the glass on the top for traction for an outdoor tile. use a 1 foot square wooden box, lay down a very thin layer of mortar (thickness of a quarter?). then lay down layers of your rice hulls mixed with mortar, then carfully place the glass on top, making sure it is in the mortar enough to be secure. this is more like a terrazzo floor common in south florida and italy Good luck with your homework
Q: how do i do the measuring and lay out on a 10 foot by 6 foot floor when laying the tiles diagonally?
A 10x6 room requires 60 square feet of tile to cover the floor. On a normal square to the walls pattern, I would order 10% more tile to cover waste. On a diagonal pattern, you will have more waste. I would order 15% to 20% more tile to cover waste. To set up to lay the tile, I start by picking the most obvious sight line in the room - maybe from the next room through the door and chalk a line perpendicular to the far wall along that sight line and parallel to the side wall. Then you chalk a line 45 degrees wall to wall through the center point of the center of the first line. This is your 45 degree pattern. Chalking a line wall to wall 90 degrees from the second chalk line through that same center point gives you your grid pattern to set your tile from. Ignore the first line - that was for reference only - line two and three are the lines you set your tile from. Set out tile dry with spacers to see if you like the effect. I will sometimes set out all of the whole tile possible in the room and walk around to see if it looks good. If it doesn't look right or you end up with too small pieces along the edges or in the doorways, you can move your initial start point and rechalk your lines.
Q: More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
when i lay tile i cut as close as i can to the base board it looks much better than having a wide grout line next to the base board that's how it should be done good luck
Q: i needed some vinyl tile but i saw that vinyl roll was a lot cheaper.is a vinyl roll just vinyl tile that hasnt been cut?
No it is two completely different things. Vinyl tile is solid vinyl all the way through. Sheet vinyl is a composite of a vinyl wear layer and a base substrate, and many times even having a cushioning layer, so it is a little easier on your feet, sort of a mini anti-fatigue mat. In much the same way as formica has a top wear layer, and a (usually) brown substrate. Vinyl tile is much more durable than sheet goods, you will almost never see sheet goods in a commercial environment, also when damaged, tiles are easier to repair. A tile will gouge or scratch, where as sheet vinyl will tear when heavy appliances are dragged over it. The sheet goods DO give you some cushioning, this is because of the composite backing.

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