Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4593 System 1

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4593

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Product Description:

Key SpecificationsPolished Porcelain Tile SB4593:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Main Export Markets:

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Q: What are the tiles to note? How bad is it?: Look at the material of the product, the surface flatness, the three-dimensional color, the surface finish, the edge is not deformed

Q: Specifically wall tiles in a bathroom: this is being told me by my mom, the Tile Queen! Go to Home Depot on Saturday, and take the FREE Tile Setting class! Next, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, USE MASTIK TO STICK THE TILES,use mortar. Mix your OWN mortar my mom was reduced to tears of frustration and anger the first time she tried to tile a bathroom because of the idiot who said to use mastik. It is an easy, foolproof job if you take your time Take a basic class, watch a DVD of it, have a tile book beside you, and GO FOR IT.

Q: What supplies would you need to install Ceramic Tile to a kitchen floor.: What okorder /

Q: How does the tile stick up? The benefits of stickers? What is the difference between sticky and wet stickers? Do i want to be thin: Dry paste only refers to the floor tiles, wall tiles are not posted, dry paste is the first layer of dry mortar, and then in the floor tile on a layer of cement paste, paste on the dry mortar, this paste the floor Brick deformation is small, wet paste is on the ground directly with cement mortar paste floor tile, this paste is easy to deformation. If you want to stick thin, use wet stickers.

Q: How to distinguish between true and false tiles: Can determine whether the factory agent or distributor or sell fake. 2, to see the back of the tile signs and packaging, there are manufacturers logo, there are manufacturers on the packaging and some formal content, such as grade, etc., you can consult the above manufacturers service phone. 3, won the fine heavy brick, you can look at its work and so on, the intention to feel, I hope you can buy assured brick, decoration smoothly.

Q: We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?: I am just real curious how you are going to hold the new backing in place. If you have that figured out I would suggest cement board. Sheet rock won't last and green board is little better. Use a clear sealent from the old to the new. (If you leave a little space - 1/8 inch or so, you can squeeze the sealent in.) Make sure non of the sealent is on the surface of either backer. Let it set for 48 hours. Tile and grout. My mother's folks all did tile work for a living. They would tell you to take the tile down for the entire wall and start over. In the long run, that is probably the best thing to do. Steven's answer was posted while I was writing. His recommendation and suggestions make great sense.

Q: I have a few ceramic tiles on my kitchen backs plash that do not match my new kitchen color. Can I paint them? If so, how? Thank you.: Hi! Just saw this post on another forum: Painting tile will work IF... * It's very clean/dry/dull, and the grout is the same. * Soooo, sand the tile with a 220-sponge, remove all dust, and inspect/repair grout. Lightly wash other areas too let dry. * Prime all areas with BIN (shellac-based) primer from Zinsser.

Q: I have a very outdated bathroom with pink tile covering just about every wall. I love to do DIY projects but can‘t afford to replace the tile. I can however afford to paint it. I read up on it and found the paint directions but don‘t want the end result to look tacky. Has anyone done this and liked the results?: Go for it! It won't look tacky if the instructions are followed. Be sure to very thoroughly clean the tile with a cleaner made for tile and grout, and use a scrub brush to scrub the tile and the grout lines well. If you plan to also paint the grout, you must let the grout dry for at least 48 hours. The longest lasting paint for this application, and one that with withstand peeling the longest, is oil-based paint. The cleanup process for oil-based paint could be a drawback, but for a long lasting finish it is the way to go. If you don't want to go with oil-based, water-based paints that contain a urethane resin are good paints to use as well. I would strongly recommend not painting the tile on the walls of the tub/shower, as the finish will not last due to the moisture and humidity in the shower. For this area, you can use a tile epoxy paint (usually available in white and creme color) and it will look good and protect the tile from the water. If going this route, be sure to ventilate the area as best as you can as the fumes are strong...but they will go away after 1-2 days. You can do this project, and it will look good. Best of luck!

Q: I applied sealer to Mexican tile and within a few hours, it rained.The finish on the tiles now is cloudy. Will this clear with time as everything dries or should I bake the tiles to burn off the water trapped in the sealer?: Unfortunately the cloudiness will not likely go away. The problem is that there is moisture in the sealer and the top of the sealer is not smooth. You may be able to fix this by just polishing the tiles with some steel wool (not the kitchen kind, the 00 or 000 polishing kind). Basically, just use the steel wool like sandpaper and rub out the finish. Rubbing out your finish is something that most woodworkers do to get a smooth and clear finish on their work and it also works for any other type of finish. If the steel wool doesn't work then you will want to either sand off the finish or use a finish remover to get the finish out. If you bake the tiles to burn off the water then you will likely yellow the finish or, depending on the finishing product, burn and blacken the finish.

Q: Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.: Anything you've used that has already scratched the tiles will only result in hard water deposits clinging to them again, as the glaze has been compromised. CLR full strength is really the only thing that works that won't damage the tiles although it requires repeated treatments to clean them. Take an extra fine media abrasive (0000), mix a 50/50 solution of a product called Barkeeper's Friend and CLR and try this. You may have to treat it several times but the hard water scale should dissolve without damaging the tiles. I've heard of mixing a solution of scratchless cleaning powder and kerosene, but you don't want to apply that to plastic and you don't want to use VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) in confined spaces. A better solution would be to break out all the plastic tile and have it replaced with ceramics, but since you're renting and your landlord probably doesn't want to spend money on remodeling this is your best bet.

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