• Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4457 System 1
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Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4457

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4457

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Product Description:

Key SpecificationsPolished Porcelain Tile SB4457:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.              

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Main Export Markets:

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details  :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Q: I recently put in a wood stove. It was professionally installed and certified to meet fire regulations. I don‘t know anything really about the install just that it doesn‘t require any r value underneath it. It just requires a pad for embers. There was a long waiting list to get it installed but an opening came up and we got it installed sooner than we planned. So we didn‘t get the tiling done. Currently it is sitting on a base made with 2x6s spaced 6 apart covered with 3/4 plywood and a sheet of durock cement board attached with durock screws and all seems taped with durock tape and covered with durock cement plaster. I want to finish it with tile. However, the stove is too heavy for us to lift. Its a pedestal woodstove so would it look okay tile up to the pedestal? If so how much space should I leave against the pedestal? What should I put in the gap? High-heat caulking? I‘m very new to this so any advice is welcomed. Thanks!
when you tile you will also be using grout between each tile this same grout is what will fill the void between the tile and your stove. as to how much space should be between you will want to pick up some spacers when you get your tile as well as the grout,tile adhesive,a spreader,a sponge and a simple tile cutter.ps most places that sell tile will also be able to give advice as to how to complete your project.
Q: so i bought tile but not the bull nose end pieces cause they did not have them for that tile. I tiled all the way out to the edge of the counter and now need a way to finish the edge. I have seen wood edges but what is this called and how do you do it? does it butt up against the tile of does it go over? is a wet tile saw supposed to leave ugly, chipped edges? bought a Brand new blade and it did not help.
some cheaper tiles will chip regardless of your wet saw blade. forget the wood surround. it so 70's. i typically rip those types of tops OUT of houses. go to a reputable tile distributor, and purchase a nice glass tile you can apply as the counter surround. you can bring the glass tile up high enough to cover the bad tile edge and grout the gaps in to finish. also, a better tile distributor, not lowes or home depot, may have a bull nose that matches or have a differing idea, but for SURE would have ample choices for glass.
Q: Or can I just start tiling over the painted wall?
I can't believe I, as the lone female answering, am going to have the right answer. Yes, you need backerboard. Simply put, you are tiling. Have you ever lifted a box of those tiles? And can you imagine one of them on that wall? Now, how about 10 of those boxes? You see, you are putting up tile and tile cement and tile group, all very heavy items, onto what may well be simple sheetrock. Yes, you need backerboard. Specifically, you want cement board, which is specifically designed to be used with tile and be waterproof. You see, in your zest to prove you can do it, you may well have a moisture issue come from an overlooked mistake in the tiling. Maybe it's the caulk at the tub seal, maybe it's in a corner, maybe it comes from an awkward merging of two tiles. Whichever it may be, you want a waterproof surface which will stay intact from such an issue ... sheetrock, no matter how nicely painted prior, simply won't do that. Yes, you need cement board. Ask anybody at your local home center if you doubt me ... and I, as the lone female, will now bid adieu.
Q: I have really old honeycomb tile in my bathroom and it would be extremely difficult to remove it. The surface is pretty flat .Would ceramic tile work best , or something like self stick vinyl tiles?
if it is the falt serface on the floor with the thin tiles with no grout just use leveling agent (lowes) to make the surface flat and level, and that will work perfect. Then u can come back with ur thin set and re tile the floor. using backer boards and such are too $$ and can be avoided as long as the serface is sold and stable.... on the walls hire someone at $8hr and have them tear out the tile in 3-5hrs then come back in the shower with green board and or hardybacker board and re tile it...
Q: We just bought a house and the bathroom tile looks terrible. Its not in bad shape, I just dont like the ugly floral pattern. Since we had to spend a lot of money on other projects in the house we dont have a lot to spend on re-tiling, The bathroom is small, about 5ftx4ft of floor, so I thought peelstick would be a good option. The tiles currently on the floor are peel and stick, should I remove them all before I apply the new ones? or can I just give them a good cleaning and lay the new tiles over them?
I agree that real tile can be nearly as cheap as peel and stick, but much more attractive. Its a lot harder work though! Peel the old ones up. I stuck sticky tile over old sticky tile in my laundry room and now the pattern of the old tile is starting to show through.
Q: I have plain jane 4 white ceramic tile and it does not go with my new room colors for my bath....can this be painted?
you should go and buy matching colour easiest way thanks
Q: The tile is blue and white and are each about 3x3 inches wide?Can you lay new tile over the top or paint it?
you can do either if you paint you need to prime it 1st and use 100% acrylic paint
Q: I‘m installing 13 x 13 cermic tiles. We‘ve laid the tile to try to configure the best layout. However, the one with the best layout with the easiests cuts leaves one very complicated one. The tile lies directly on the air duct, with the cut being a large rectangular hole in the middle of the tile. If we adjusted the layout to have 2 tiles lay over the duct, it creates more complicated cuts everywhere else.How do you suggest I cut this tile?We have only a wet tile saw.
I would go with the one that falls with one tile on the vent. then, go to Lowe's and pick up a ceramic tile drill bit. they have a bit that is specifically made for drilling through glass and ceramic tile, a masonry bit will crack the tile. they are relatively expensive for a drill bit because they have a relatively flat diamond coated tip. using this bit you can outline the cut with bit holes. if you drill enough holes, you can simply break the center out of the tile. just take your time and drill plenty of holes or you will crack the tile. I think that it would look cool if the duct came directly out of the center of a tile.
Q: never installed it before i am putting in mold free dry wall and new fixtures. want to put up tile instead of a surround wondering how hard it is to do thanks
I would suggest getting a good tile book at the book store or library and reading it. Despite what the first answerer says it is not quite easy. I have probably done 75 bathrooms and while it's not terribly difficult it does take some skill and some planning. Especially around corners and other transitions. As was suggested do not use drywall behind the tile in a shower. Study up and then make a decision. Good luck
Q: Tiles on the iron out of the traces of how to remove
I went back to a similar problem, you go back along with the way, you can refer to the next: Decoration in the floor tile on the reason iron frame or aluminum alloy, metal push and pull the focus of small, high pressure, can make the metal traces into the brick surface inside, more difficult to clean, you will appear this situation, , The acid is easy to damage the surface. If it is relatively heavy metal push and pull the scratches, remove the scratches on the tiles will be more difficult, in order to be more effort and faster to remove the metal scratches on the floor, you can first use detergent soak 3 minutes before scrubbing, tiles Cleaning agent and metal scissors will be broken after the decomposition of the loose, with a wet towel stained with detergent to wipe a little hard, clean as a new brick surface immediately show, will not have an impact on the floor tile surface, gloss will not have any change.

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