Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading TileCMAX XN0609 Hot Sale

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading TileCMAX XN0609 Hot Sale

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1382.4

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Features

Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading TileCMAX XN0609 Hot Sale

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:How to calculate the loss of tiles: Number of wall tiles algorithm: 800 tiles Square number * 1.6 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) 600 tiles Square number * 2.78 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Toilet kitchen ground Specifications: 300 * 300 square number * 11 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Bathroom kitchen wall tiles Specifications: 300 * 450 square number * 7.4 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Specifications: 300 * 600 square number * 5.5 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (added loss) Specifications: 250 * 330 square number * 12 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss Waistline Specifications: 30 * 30 weeks long * 3.3 * 5.5 = quantity (plus loss) Under normal circumstances we still have to look at the specific size of the number of units to calculate the loss of these generally when you buy tiles when the Purchasing Guide will be specific for your account

Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!: This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.

Q:My family began to paste tiles, the budget has been bought more than 2 square, and buy back the tile is now posted enough and also a lot worse, would like to ask the forum friends, the normal paste tile loss is how much? Thank you first!: General your decoration company will give you the amount of assessment, because the process of paving will be damaged and other issues, so the exact number is also very troublesome.

Q:currently have vinyl tile glued to concrete on grade. Want to install bamboo floor / engineered wood. Can we go on top of existing vinyl?: Possibly. The vinyl tile must be well installed (not coming loose or bubbling or open seams, etc.). If the vinyl tile is a no wax or smooth surface, it may still need to be prepped with a palm sander and 80 grit just enough to give it some tooth. And finally, make certain to contact both manufacturers' reps or technical services to make certain that the new glue is compatible with both the vinyl and the bamboo... and to make certain that this endeavor will not void your warranty. Good luck.

Q:the tile squares have come off and I need to re-stick them. Which glue should I use?: The thin floor tiles? Sometimes you can heat the tile back and floor with a hair drier then stick them back in place one by one. If that doesn't work then carry a tile to a flooring outlet and ask them what to use and do. There's different types of adhesives. Some can be re-activated with heat while others need to be removed then a fresh application trowled on.

Q:I am about to renewing my kitche.I plan to install tile.Well I have no tile cutter but I do have a simple, regular cutt off electrical tools and a diamond blade.Should this be enough for it?: A okorder /

Q:CAN YOU LAY TILE OVER TILE: If your existing tile is tight to the floor and in good shape (no cracks, loose tile, loose grout) yes you can. You need to use a thin set with a very high latex content like TEC Superflex. Be sure that the existing tile and grout is perfectly clean and there are no sealers left on the grout. This is an industry accepted method.

Q:I ripped up all the existing tile, it was small tiles that I had to chisel up. There is quite a bit of thinset that is bonded to the wood floor and its impossible to get it all up. If I try and chisel it all off I end up ripping up the wood and making it worse.I think the wood sub floor is sitting on another older piece of sub floor but i‘m not sure.What are my options here?- put cement board over it (do i need to put waterproof membrane?) and then tile it? If I do this the bathroom floor will be slightly higher then the hallway floor.- Can I use self leveler on the wood subfloor and then tile over it? it would probably be the ideal height.- Do I chance ripping up the subfloor and doing cement board and then tile?Am I missing any other options?: go to Lowes or the HoDepot and take the FREE tile classes .... those instructors are very good .... NUMBER ONE you must float the floor with the tile preparation cement to seal the wood and have a flat surface to lay tile ....

Q:Hi Folks,Currently I have a bath tub with a vinyl shower surround. I‘m considering removing the shower surround and replacing it with tile.I‘m just wondering how big of a job this is? I‘ve never tiled before but consider myself handy and have done plenty around the house.Of note, I don‘t believe proper backboard is underneath the surround so I‘d have to put that up also. I‘ve put drywall up in the past so I think that part should be ok.So...is this a do it yourself job? Or is this something that needs to be hired out for. Seems like it should be simple, but maybe I‘m missing something and it gets complicated or difficult to make come out nice?Also, how long should this take if I did it myself (days and hours per day) and how long before I can start using the shower again.Thanks!: I, too, have a shower that needs tiling. I hired a friend of a friend and he began the job and abandoned it 1/5 along the way. One of the problems you may encounter is that you will have to have the proper equipment to cut the tile that goes around the shower head, etc. Also, this guy started from the top and I was told that you always start from the bottom of the shower. There is a certain type of adhesive that you need also for adhering the tile (forgot the name) but it is not thinset. Make sure you measure twice so when you cut you will only have to cut once. Oh yeah, and don't forget your spacers. You tile one day and grout the next. I think the grout needs 48 hours to totally dry. That's all I can think of.

Q:I found answers about laying tile and a backer board over linoleum I didn‘t know if they would be the same. What would cause tile to crack if it‘s places directly on concrete?: If a homeowner asked me to lay any kind of tile other than vinyl over the top of vinyl I would not warranty anything. The non vinyl tile will be adhered extremely well with the thinset to the vinyl tile, however, the vinyl tile, while it's stuck to the concrete, does have movement. If the sub floor moves something in the thinset, grout or porcelain/ceramic tile will have to give. If the thinset gives your tiles will come loose. If the grout gives you will spend the next 15 years replacing grout once a month. If the tile gives you will have cracks in the surface of the tile that creates a sharp edge to cut your feet on. Or a combination of the three. You must remove the vinyl. You can purchase a removal tool at Home Depot for a couple bucks. You can also get a day laborer that you will have to watch but will do the work for you for probably $75 or so. Once you have the tiles up and the floor cleaned (you don't have to be neurotic about the cleaning as the thinset will float over some things on the concrete) you'll need to inspect for cracks in the concrete. If there are cracks you'll need to purchase a crack mitigation kit. You can find them in the tile section of Home Depot. You'll need the package as well as the primer. There are instructions on the package but basically you cut the stuff to fit with a utility knife. Paint the primer on the floor and let dry as per instructions. Paint on the glue and lay the material over the glue. Let dry as per instructions and you're ready to tile with no worries about cracking tile.

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