Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX607

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX607

Ref Price:: $3.50 - 3.60 / m²

Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603, Ivory Color, is one of the most popular color in the present market, especially for South America and Middle East. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, as it is high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price.

Product Features

Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX607

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, what is the MOQ for each model?

—— Normally, the MOQ for each model is one 20' container. However, for some popular series, we could go with 3 models for one container.

2. What is the glossy degree for this tile?

—— Normally the glossy degree is over 90 degree. We call it high glssy degree.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers.

Q:My new home has a kitchen with glazed ceramic tiles covering most of the walls.The colour is basically honey brown, but there‘s a hideous purple border (in the same tile size shape) running horizontally vertically all over the place - I‘d say that 20% of the tiles are this colour.I want to reduce all the tiles to one (new) colour.Two guys (both pros) have this to say:GUY 1: Cheapest solution (and least noisy/disruptive) is to use a ‘glass enamel paint‘ over the tiles. I went online and found several manufacturers of this stuff.GUY 2: Scoffed at this and said there was no other way than retiling the whole kitchen.Guy 1 is adamant that it can be done, and the job will last if enough care is taken in preparing the surface.Is he right?Has anyone tried this ‘re-enamelling‘ technique, and were the results OK?Thanks!: Just my 2 cents. A couple of months ago I saw a bathroom with painted tile and it looked really different. It looked really cheap. I think you would be disappointed if you spent the time and money to paint the tiles.

Q:It has been installed on a concrete slab for about five months now, could the slab not have cured right or is the tile layed wrong?: here's the deal about laying tile over a concrete slab. either the tiler has to essentially build a floor over the slab (slab, then firring strips, plywood subfloor, thinset, backerboard, thinset, tile), or must use what's called an 'isolation membrane' to install the tiles directly on the slab (slab, then membrane, thinset, tile). the isolation membrane is a self-levelling rubbery substance that thinset can adhere to, that allows the slab to crack underneath without the cracks propagating upwards through the thinset and cracking the tile. if the tiler did neither, it's almost a guarantee that eventually the tiles over the slab will crack. (yes, if the slab had not fully cured, that might have caused the crack underneath; however, most all slabs will eventually crack even if everything else is perfect. that's the reason for the isolation membrane.)

Q:How to divide the tiles?: The state of the ceramic tile by the tile level is divided into A, B, C and so on. 1, A level. Class A use of the scope of unlimited, can be used in various places of home decoration. So the environmental performance of indoor tiles must meet Class A standards. The standard for the use of tiles for radioactive use is GB6566-2001. Class A decoration materials in the natural radionuclide radium radium-266, thorium-232, potassium-40 radioactive specific activity at the same time to meet the IRa ≤ 1.0 and Ir ≤ 1.3 requirements for the A class of decoration materials. 2, B grade. Class B decoration materials do not meet the requirements of Class A decoration materials but at the same time to meet the requirements of IRa ≤ 1.3 and Ir ≤ 1.9 for the B class decoration materials. Class B decoration materials can not be used for the interior of Class I civil construction, but can be used for the outer surface of Class I civil construction and the interior and exterior of all other buildings. 3, C level. Class C decoration materials do not meet the A, B class decoration materials requirements but meet the Ir ≤ 2.8 requirements for the C class decoration materials. Class C decoration materials can only be used for exterior finishes and outdoor use. Ir> 2.8 granite can only be used for monsters, seawalls, piers and other human rarely involved. According to the national standard level, tiles can be divided into two levels: 1, A grade goods A grade is the best grade, A grade is divided into AAA level, AA level and A level, AAA level is the best level. 2, B grade goods Class B products are slightly flawed products. Whether it is tiles according to the radioactive or standard provisions of the tile, we can find different tiles or have their own different nature.

Q:I am building a deck outside my living room am#92;nd the dimensions are 8‘ wide by 24‘ long.It is 14‘ up at the highest point as I am on a hill. I‘m using 2 by 6 joists with 2 by 12 headers. Here is what I want to do: someone told me to use a 1/4 in slope over 8 ft. for water run off. I want to tile the deck. Iwant to know what size plywood I should use and if there is some kind of waterproof fibreboard I can use as a base for the tile in lieu of laying down rubber for the base. I dont want sand or pitch due to the weight factor. Is there something fairly lightweight and waterproof suitable for a base for the tile? If so what is it called? and where can i get it? Thanks.: In my opinion the installing of tile over a wooden deck will probably not stand the test of time, because no matter how well you water-proof it, moisture will eventually rot out your wooden support, causing the tile to sag, crack, or break. The moisture may not come from the top as it will be absorbed into the wood from below the deck. If you have your heart set on this and you're willing to replace it all one day, I'd waterproof the deck first. There is a marvelous liquid rubber-like liquid called Red guard that can be painted on with a brush- cover it well and don't miss any spots. When dry, screw down some concrete backer board- it comes in 3 by 5 sheets, and you'll probably be better off to use 1/2 inch thick goods, as you need the support and non-flexibility of the thicker goods. If I were doing it, I'd coat this finished installation with Red guard too, and let it dry before you start setting the tile.Make sure to use exterior grade thinset mortar the best quality you can afford, and make sure you get tile suited for exterior applications, because there is a difference. I think the most important thing that should be mentioned is that your deck needs to be very strong to support all this extra weight that will be placed on it-beef it up extra if you intend to do this. Best of luck!!

Q:Im trying to figure out how to apply (vct) Vinyl tile squares? Whats the best way to start a project? What adhesive do you use if any? Is it like ceramic with some form of grout? etc!: Look you don't have to start in the middle of the room measure across the room. Measure your sticky back tile. Figure out how much you will have to cut off of the two peices of tile on either wall. try to make it so you are cutting the exact same amount off of both peices. Once you have figured it out and laid down the first on one side go across the room. Remeasure the last peice to make sure, if it a little different it is ok. It will look as if both wall peices go under youe wall. and you won't have a full peice at one end and a half peice at the other or just a sliver on one end. Oh yeah make sure you pull up your base board so you can cover any gaps against your wall first, because usually most houses start off somewhat square, but you will still have a small crack to cover up. You might want to consider also putting down a shoe molding (just a thought). Use something like a rolling pin to apply the tile to the floor well. DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE TILE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THAT IT IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE. Try to get the seams as tight as possible. You should do fine just take your time, and you will probably also cut a few tiles the wrong size. It is ok, Use a box knife to cut your tile from the back of it. Score a line, not necessarily all the way through, then simply break it, then come down the front with your knife to make the precise cut the rest of the way through. Have fun.

Q:i;m going to install a medallion and i need to cut circle on four tiles. is there anything else besides a hand grinder that will do the job, ( cheap) i don‘t want to spend 300$$ just to cut 4 tiles to make a circle for the medallion to fit. thanks: Maybe take them back to where you bought they along with the medallion and see if they will do them for you. NOt an easy job!

Q:My wall tiles has been for more than 20yrs owned by first owner. Due to limited budget,i have not replaced them when i bought over as 2nd owner, but have done a coat of spray paint on it thru contractor, Now after 5 yrs, some of these spray paint are coming off, any suggestion what i can do , i do not want to hack the wall and replace new wall tiles very costly, someone suggest buying bathroom tiles stickers on those tiles with paint coming off.. anyone with better suggestion on DIY ..plse help---: remove all of the silly paint with a heat gun and plastic putty knife, dig out the grout and regrout. Unless the tile are loose, then you will have to pop out the loose ones and re-adhere them to the wall with construction adhesive or thinset. painting is not a good plan. Especially if you paid someone to do it. It would have been cheaper to install new tile yourself than pay someone to paint it.

Q:I redid my floor in november using the sticky tiles I purchased from Family Dollar. I wanted to take the tiles off. Is there a easy way to do this without spending lots of money?: Heating the tiles up will make for easy removal.But you cant just use a standard hair dryer. Rent a commercial heat gun. It ll heat the tile up for easy removal. Most people think a regular dryer will work, it wont. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

Q:We live in Phoenix and have a tile roof; most likely concrete tile. One of the tile on the lower level roof has somehow gone missing and I am trying to find one to replace it with. I don‘t think HD and Lowes sell roof tiles and I have tried to look up in yellow pages and am only finding roofing contractors. Where do you think I can just go and buy one tile. I won‘t need an installer as I can do it myself as it is on the lower level roof that I can access with a small ladder. Also tile is the one at the bottom so I won‘t need to climb up on the roof either :) Only logical suggestions are appreciated.: HI, H.D. OR LOEWES MAY HAVE THEM . IF NOT, CHECK OTHER HARDWARE STORES OR ASK A CNTRACTOR OR ROOFER WHO USES THOSE TILES. A BUILDING SUPPLY CO, NOT H.D. OR LOEWES WOULD HAVE THEM FOR SURE.

Q:Should I put in a ceramic tile shower or cultured marble shower? Which would provide a better return when selling the house?: I would go with the tile. In fact, we just ripped out our tuba and shower to replace cultured marble. The marble is a little dated right now and will only look more so in the future. Our house is only about 10 years old but the cultured marble looks a little too '70's and '80's to me. Also, there are many more choices for style and color with tile and it gives you the opportunity to customize the look with much more detail. Let's put it this way, when my wife and I were looking for tile ideas, I visited quite a few new home constructions sites in nice areas....houses in the 700K to $1 million dollar range. In every case, all the bathrooms were tile jobs, not a single cultured marble bathroom. If you do decide to tile, you probably want to consider tile that would appeal to most people. You want to stay away from the shiny, 4 ceramic tiles in bold colors that were popular years ago. Today, natural stone or natural stone looking ceramics are very popular.

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