• Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603 System 2
Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603, Ivory Color, is one of the most popular color in the present market, especially for South America and Middle East. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, as it is high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price. 

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603

Polished Porcelain Floor Soluble Salt 600 Serie CMAX603

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 60* 120 available?

—— Yes, 60*120 is available. This size is mainly used for domestic market and used for cutting into Step and Riser for stair case.

 

2.    What is the glossy degree for this tile?

—— Normally the glossy degree is over 90 degree. We call it high glssy degree.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers.

 

 

Q: What are the dimensions of the tile?
There are many common types of tile are proportional to the 300X300 600X600 800X800 and 1000X1000. Ceramic tile size 300X300 300X450 300X600 there are 100X100. Ask more, why should we know the size of the problem? The Generally this will not be a problem. There are any indoor and outdoor space decoration problems continue to ask
Q: I am replacing a floor furnace and may need to replace some tiles. These are nominally size 11-1/2 x 11-1/2 x 1/2 inch. Thanks.
Hand made terracotta tile can be gotten at most tile shops ( the good mom and pop tile stores, not the big box stores). You will have a shade and variation in the tile but I m sure your aware of that. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: I am renovating, and have always loved white coloured tiles but am now starting to like these light coloured hardwood Tasmanian Oak Floorboards ....I have no idea on prices yet, what would cost more? and which one would look more beautiful??PS- i would NEVER put floating floorboards - they are cheap and nasty!
Hardwoods are classic. You can never go wrong with hardwood floors as far as resell value. I renovated two years ago. We have a 1500 sq/ft home. We did tile in the bath and hardwoods everywhere else. My husband wanted to tile the kitchen as well but we were talked out of it due to labor costs. Cleaning tile grout is troublesome, sealing it is ineffective if you have food stains or mud or something. My tile floors are very pretty but I regret it. Be sure to get real hardwood with NO laminate at all. Some hardwood floors are real wood on the surface but laminated onto a synthetic bottom. Be careful that way. Things to ask before choosing: How many times can they be refinished? Are they glued or nailed? (Glued are crappy, nailing is much more effective.) How do I clean them? (I use a steamer, no chemicals.) Will my subfloor support the hardwood? (we had to install a new subfloor). Oak and Hickory are the best HARD woods to choose from.
Q: I have laminate over plywood right now in a bathroom. I‘d like to peel that off and lay tile down. Do I need the cement board or can I just put the tiles right on the plywood? It would save a lot of time and energy if I can just lay the tiles on the existing wood.
You can tile right over the plywood. It may be difficult getting the laminate off, but if it is 40 or 50 years old, it will be easier. Take an old knife and stick it under the edge of the laminate and see how easily the laminate comes loose. If it's easy, go for it. You may end up with some gouges in the wood, but that won't hurt anything if you're tiling over it. The thinset tile adhesive will fill in any gouges. Good luck! It's fun, and remember this: Grout takes away the sins of the tile, so if the tile looks rough once it's down, the grout will fix it beautifully. Have fun, too.
Q: ive never tiled anything before. i was thinking of replacing our old tiles around the fireplace and puttnig in slate ones. i am wondering if its a bigger project than it seems. will i have to remove the mantle to do it. is it harder to tile something on the wall or fireplace than the floor? should i just seek a professional or is it easy?thanks
This okorder /... Bottom line? Maybe this isn't the best project as a first project.
Q: If I start in the middle, I will have to cut tile for both sides. I think I should start in the upper right corner, but my neighbor seems to think it will look out of balance.
Start in the exact center. This is where most people's focus will be and so you want to make sure it is centered properly. You'll have to cut the tiles to fit against the walls, but not many people will notice that.
Q: Does all kinds of tiles calculate the formula per square meter? For example, a few pieces of 300X600 is a square meter?
This is like a primary school students will be considered it! 300X600 unit is centimeter right, that is, 0.3X0.6 = 0.18 square meters, 1 square meter ÷ 0.18 = 5.555, that is, five and a half more than a little bit.
Q: My kitchen is 15x11 and I am buying 18x18 tiles I need to know how many to buy.
Rob S has the only correct answer. My only additional comment is that you should allow for more waste. I would order 90 tiles.
Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
I have to agree with answer 1. I tile every day of my life, and while greenboard certainly should be used for the balance of a bathroom, I stopped using it around tubs and showers, years ago. Concrete backer board is an industry standard, is not more difficult to install, and actually aids in tile/mortar adhesion properties. While you have the walls gutted, you might add a vapor barrier as well. The issue with patching over the damage is that it may become just as degraded as the original substrate, and I suspect cause you to be unhappy. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q: Meaning, I was just wondering if you can lay a thin set of mortar then place vinyl tiles on it, and then grout it? This mabye a stupid question and most people would say why not just use real tile if your going to go through all that trouble, but just wondering?.Thanks
Vinyl tile you use glue. Some have the glue adhesive on the back, some you have to put the glue down your self with a 1/8 or 3/16 trowel. And like the other person stated they are very thin, meaning if you did try and set them in mortar and one little piece of mortar didn't mix good after a few weeks of use and maybe not that long that will create a lump and eventually ware through your vinyl. Don't even think about being able to grout. Now I have used glue with ceramic tile in certain cases. I don't recommend that either though. I use liquid nails or a pl 400 type glue in a tube to do risers on a stairway but the treads I used mortar. If you go to Home depot or Lowe's and pick out what type of flooring they should be able to lead you in the right direction on the glue vs mortar. good luck. you can do it

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