• Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8161 System 1
Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8161

Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8161

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 PCS
Supply Capability:
100000 PCS/month

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Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:

1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile

2.Certificate:CE ISO

3.W.A. <0.5%

4.Material:Porcelain

Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:                        

1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm  Porcelain tile

2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile

3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.

4. Engobe(water proof)

5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP

6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)

7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT

8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.

9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request

Q: So I have the substrate ready, the room is a L shape 253 x 148. Where do I start the tile, I am assuming the center of each on a chalk line. Is this correct?Bond
Kosh has a very good point that I was going to bring up that no one else has. When dry laying tile out going off a center line and you end up w/ less than 1/2 a tile at your longest site line then shift over a 1/2 tile and remark your lines. Dont just go off your longest site line and lay whole tile. Yes a few more cuts and a bit more time but it s your own job and you want it to look the best.. As far as a grout joint you didn t say what you are laying ..Soft bodied tile w/ lugs are butted together( leave just a hairline space to make adjustments for sizing . ( unsanded grout only) With hard bodied tile stay in the 1/4 inch 3/16 range any larger and it looks gaudy I think. Any smaller and it s harder unless you have a good tile and or experience working w/ tile.. GL
Q: I have hot water radiant heat in a concrete slab that leaks occasionally so I can‘t put carpet on it. Do I dare put ceramic tile over it? Maybe the tile would keep the moisture down.
You could I would do some research though you need to make sure its not a water soluble adhesive and that the ceramic tile wont get super hot. I know that ceramic is very hard and it should stand up. I am not sure about the adhesive though you would have to ask someone about that. Some one at like Lowe's or home depot should be able to tell you that though. Lay some of the tile out and let it sit on the floor see if it is the best material to use for tile and if it holds the heat like you want it to.
Q: My dad layed tiles in his kitchen recently. He had some plywood type stuff that he layed them on top of so they are on a flat, even surface. But then someone told him he should have put a netting type stuff underneith the tiles too, to keep them from breaking. Is that very important, will his floor be ruined now?
Its called wire mesh. Its not used as much anymore. What makes tiles or grout crack is the wood below the tiles. If the floor joists are too far apart and the plywood is not thick enough it can cause the floor to move. Even a little bit of movement can cause the tiles and the grout to crack. The wire mesh will not help if the floor moves.
Q: Dont want to lay down the rock. Want to attach strait to the plywood due to dish washer stove and cabinets. What is the best way for long lasting tile strait to plywood?
You should not apply tiles on plywood, you'll be doing a great mistake, use a cement mortar directly on a concrete base, they'll last almost a lifetime....
Q: I am installing some mesh mounted 12x12 glass tiles sheets on one wall of my kitchen (behind the stove). I was reading online how to do it and I have a question. Some sites say to put the bottom tiles flush with the counter top and some sites say to use 1/8 spacers between the countertop and the bottom of the tiles and fill in with grout colored cauk. Which should I do? Thanks
Definitely use the spacers! It will give it a much more professional look. You'll be glad you did
Q: Tomorrow I will be laying porcelain tile in my kitchen and need help in figuring out how to cut a hole in the tile for the floor vent? Any input would be appreciated.
I've done this: I've used an angle grinder to cut a rectangle in one bathroom tile. Straight cuts are easy using an angle cutter and a diamond wheel designed for cutting tile. I've even cut a round hole for the commode. But the commode had a tile seam under it, so I wasn't cutting a hole in the middle of a tile, I was able to cut and nibble away until I had a semi-circle in each tile. Just make sure you have more tile than you need. If (when) you make a mistake you have more to work with. And don't try to accomplish the entire cut all at once. Take little passes at it until you work your way through. Hope this helps. 'av'a g'day mate. '')
Q: I need to remove several tiles for repair and replace the tiles with as little damage as possible
if its in the middle, drill a hole in one, then chisel it out, once you have one removed the rest are easy
Q: We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out
Q: Our kitchen isn‘t that big and I hate the tile. My fiance says it‘s a huge big deal to remove the tile but not so hard to put new tile in.About how much does it run to remove tile, say from the average size kitchen.... it‘s about 7 foot by 18 feet.
it is not the tile removing that would cost the money,it is the making good afterwards as you need a straight flat wall/floor to be able to retile it.If your tiles are sound,well stuck and not falling apart/moving then tiling on top is an option.that creates it's own problems tho,in the end edge,on a wall where the tiles just stop, you will see 2 tiles thickness as opposed to one only.If it is floor tiling you talking about then you will have a small problem by the doors,where the new tiling will be a bit higher than whatever is on the other side of the door.If the tiles are stuck on marine ply,make sure you use flexible adhesive and grout for the new tiling.
Q: Tiles of various formulas If a square how much money a square need to have a number of pieces of tiles a brick with a number of squares of various formulas
Square = length x width. For example, the specification for the 300x450 tile algorithm is. 0.3x0.4 = 0.12 per tablet is 0.12 square. If you want to use 50 square with 50 by 0.12 will use 417 pieces

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