• Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel System 1
  • Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel System 2
Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel

Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Specifications

1.Lift parts elevator cable
2.ISO TUV CCC
3. With Nuclear tech
4.National Enterprise Tech Certer
5. 72.6-year-life

Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel

Constructions

Conductor

Compact Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 2 as per IEC 60228

Circular solid Copper Conductor, Class 1 as per IEC 60228

Flexible Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 5 as per IEC 60228

Insulation

Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Filler

Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape

overall Screened

Copper wire

individually Screened

Copper wire

Filler

PP Yarn, or Paper

Wrapping Tape

PP

Inner Covering

Extruded PVC

Armour

Steel Tape

Overall Sheath

PVC

Applications

Compensation conductor or cable for intrinsically safe anti-explosive temperature measurement system applies low capacitance and low inductance material structure with anti-explosive safety performance, which is used for connecting with anti-explosive temperature measuring meter as anti-explosive thermocouple cable in environment of risk of explosion to form intrinsically safe thermocouple temperature measurement system.

Standards

International: IEC 60502-2, IEC 60228 IEC 60840;IEC62067 IEC332,SS299

Other standards such as BS,DIN and ICEA upon request

Technical data

      1. Maximum working temperature of conductor:

Heat resistance level:F46 200℃

Soluble polytetrafluoroethylene 260℃ silicon rubber 180℃

Ordinary grade:PVC 70℃ and 105℃,cross-linked polyethylene 90℃, low smoke zero halogen antiflaming polyolefin 70℃,cross-linked type90℃and125℃.

      2. Low ambient temperature:PVC jacket

Fixed laying -40℃, non-fixed laying -20℃.

      3. Allowable bending radius of cable: no less than 6 times external diameter for cables without armor; no less than 12 times external diameter for copper strip shielded or steel strip armor cables; no less than 10 times external diameter for fluoroplastic insulated and jacketed cables.

Certificates

TUV, RoHS, CCC, ISO 9000,ISO10004 and more others at request

Marking

 According to the customers' requirements

Nominal cross-sectional areas

0.5mm2, 1.0mm2, 1.5mm2, 2.5mm2.

Technical Data

Code, material and insulation color

Compensation wire code

Thermocouple type

Thermocouple index

Alloy material of wine

Insulation color

Anode

Cathode

Anode

Cathode

SC

PtRh10-Pt

S

SPC(Cu)

SNC(Cu-Ni)

Red

Green

RC

PtRh13-Pt

R

RPC(Cu)

RNC(Cu-Ni)

Red

Green

KCA

Nichrome-NiSi

K

KPCA(Fe)

KNCA(Cu-Ni)

Red

Blue

KCB

KNCB(Cu)

KNCB(Cu-Ni)

Red

Blue

KX

KPX(NiCr)

KNX(NiSi)

Red

Black

NC

NiCrSi-NiSi

N

NPC(Fe)

NNC(Cu-Ni)

Red

Grey

NX

NPX(NiCrSi)

NNX(NiSi)

Red

Grey

EX

NiCr-CuNi

E

EPX(NiCr)

ENX(Cu-Ni)

Red

Brown

JX

Fe-CuNi

J

JPX(Fe)

JNX(Cu-Ni)

Red

Purple

TX

Cu-CuNi

T

TPX(Cu)

TNX(Cu-Ni)

Red

White

Model

Name

KX-G-VVP

PVC insulated and sheathed & copper net shielded general compensating cable

KX-G-VRP

PVC insulated and sheathed & shielded general compensating flexible cable

ZR-HsVP

PVC insulated & copper net shielded precision compensating cable(Anti-flaming)

ZR-HsRVP

PVC insulated & copper net separated and total shielded precision compensating cable(Anti-flaming)

KX-G-FFP

Anti-high temperature and shielded general compensating cable

ZR-KX-G-FP

Anti-high temperature and shielded compensating cable(Anti-flaming)

ZR-KX-FFP2

Anti-high temperature copper tape total shielded compensating cable(Anti-flaming)

ZR-KX-GR

Anti-high temperature and shielded compensating flexible cable(Anti-flaming)

KX-Hs-GGR

Silicon rubber insulated and sheathed compensating flexible cable

KX-Hs-FVP2FP2

Anti-high temperature copper tape separated and total shielded compensating cable

NH-KX-Hs-FP

Anti-temperature and fireproof compensating cable

GZR-KX-Hs-FFP

Anti-temperature precision compensating cable(High anti-flaming)

HT-KX-HsFVP

Special anti-heat shielded precision compensating cable

 

Outer diameter referred of Fluor plastic insulated and sheathed compensating cable

Model

 

Number of pair

Sectional area

KX-HsFFP-2

KX-HsFFRP

1

0.75

1.0

1.5

2.5

0.75

1.0

1.5

2.5

2

6.2

7.7

8.2

9.3

6.4

8.2

9.1

10.0

3

11.7

12.8

14.1

16.4

10.7

12.3

13.8

16.8

4

12.3

13.9

14.9

17.4

13.0

13.8

14.8

17.6

5

14.4

15.6

16.3

19.1

14.7

15.7

16.1

18.8

7

15.5

16.9

18.3

21.2

15.9

17.0

18.3

20.0

10

16.7

18.3

20.9

23.8

17.2

18.4

19.5

23.4

12

18.8

21.8

24.7

29.3

20.4

21.0

24.8

29.1

14

21.4

23.6

28.7

33.3

22.0

23.7

27.0

32.1

Lift parts elevator compensation cable for home elevator system/electrical cable/cabel

Q: I have a Karcher power washer which was left outside over night. An animal chewed threw the power cable and so is unusable. I was wondering how to re-connect the power cord together, safely. I do not want to cross wires and use electrical tape. I was thinking of using a connector, but unsure of whether to use a two pinned or three pinned connector.
You can install a plug on the cord to replace the one that was chewed off. Choose one with the same number of prongs as the cord has wires (2 or 3). Be sure to attach each wire to the correct terminal! Splicing the cord is also OK, and tape would not be a problem if applied properly, but I prefer to use heat-shrink tubing. When I do a top-grade splice, I first twist the wires tightly together without making a tail, then I solder them.
Q: On my PSU I have two PCI-E 6 pin cables. I have looked at the motherboard and saw there is nowhere to plug it in and my motherboard manual says of no slots for it but I do have two PCI-Express slots. Do they plug into the cards themselves or something?How do I use the PCI-E power cables?
PCI-E power cables are used for add-on graphics cards that connect to your motherboard. These cables are technically supposed to connect to those cards, NOT the motherboard itself. You don't have to plug in every cable that comes with you PSU anyways, just leave the unused ones aside, and they wouldn't be provided with electricity
Q: I just got done building my new computer, and am putting in my cd-room's.When i plug in the power to them they will open, but when i connect them to the motherboard with the ide cable they wont open.And yes i have everything plugged in right.
did you try a different CD rom? might just be broken.
Q: Calculation method of wire and cable outer diameter
You are talking about the calculation of the diameter of the calculation method please refer to GB / T marine cables please refer to IEC-350 and 353
Q: I tried looking up the the model # and a couple of sites that would sell it but cant find any. Also the player is like 2 years old so hard to find anything about it.
9v is what's called the 'nominal' value, or typical value. Input voltage can dip as much as 20% which would drop 9v down to 7.2v, but is still enough to operate. (If you only supplied a nominal 7.2v, and line voltage dipped 20%, you'd be left with only 5.8v trying to operate a 7.2v system. Not enough.) Basically, every electronic device contains a voltage regulator. Anything more than the minimum is shunted away, but if the input drops, then there is still enough to maintain the minimum voltage necessary to run. But you still need a nominal value higher than the minimum to make sure there's always plenty, no matter what happens.
Q: power wont tuurn on from my amp there is power in the cables and i checked all fuses and wires there good to go nugga
check the remote wire
Q: I'd like to know what type of wire/specs. for a 3 phase high power cable that can handle a 41.6KVa that will be buried under the ground? The voltage will be a 220 volts in 60 Hz. could you show me how to calculate or any charts are really appreciated.
There's not enough information in your question to give an exact answer. Figure the highest current in any of the phases assuming that your load may not be perfectly balanced or it may have a nonlinear current waveform. That will establish the minimum size of the conductors. Another factor to consider is the maximum allowable voltage loss at full current. You also need to know if voltage sags due to startup or inrush currents will be a problem. A long cable will need to have larger conductors to keep the losses within your acceptable range. Don
Q: What happen's when you just yank the power cord out from the electronic (Computer or TV) while it is still running? Does it blow a fuse or something? And what should I do to fix whatever the problem is, assumming that the electronic doesn't turn on after i yank the power cord out?
Electronic devices should be OK if the cord is yanked, as long as it isn't done too often. It would be just like a power outage, the device would turn off immediately. It shouldn't blow a fuse or anything like that. If you pull the plug and it doesn't turn back on later, it could be that the power supply or transformer has gone bad. These are easier to replace in computers than in TVs and often cost less than $50.
Q: can you use just one power (positive) cable cut it and use the rest for your negative
In theory, yes you can do this provided a couple things. I know it seems a simple question, and you may be fine but for safety's sake.... Power cable is usually 10 gauge braided copper. this should cover just about any amp, but as the current draw is thru the ground, this cable is usually 8 gauge and a much shorter run. If you are running a ton of power with this amp, you may want to just splurge and get yourself a run of 8 gauge ground wire, find a good solid ground and for god sake use star washers between the spade connection and the ground to ensure a good solid connection. I have seen many installs fail because of that little detail. A 10 g cable is probably good enough but to get it up to standards use an 8 g.
Q: I have a usb hub that is externally powered that stays on 24/7 even when i shut my computer off. It is buried behind by desk so removing the usb power supply manually each time is what im trying to avoid. Is there anyway i can put a switch in the power cable going to it?
Before you attempt this, make sure you have the following items: -Wire strippers -Electrical tape -Two terminal switch -Scissors IMPORTANT! make sure that the cable is unplugged from the computer and the hub before you do this! 1st, cut the cord halfway with the scissors. Next, remove the outer wire insulation from the two new ends you just cut with the wire strippers. Now strip the small colored wires that are now exposed. Then connect the red wire from one half of the cord to a terminal on the switch. Do the same with the other red wire from the other half of the cord and connect it to the other terminal on the switch. Strip the other small wires and connect them back to their appropriate colored wire. Finally, wrap each wire individually with electrical tape, then wrap the entire gap in the cord with it. Now plug the cord in and try it out!

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