Highest quality for Portland Cement of Type IP Standard
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 500000 m.t./month
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PORTLAND CEMENT
Portland cement is the most common type of cement in general use around the world, used as a basic ingredient of concrete, mortar, stucco, and most non-specialty grout.
It is a fine powder produced by heating materials in a kiln to form what is called clinker, grinding the clinker, and adding small amounts of other materials.
Several types of Portland cement are available with the most common being called ordinary Portland cement (OPC) which is grey in color, but a white Portland cement is also available.
Application
CNBM Cement can be used for all types of architectural or structural concrete construction. Such application as pre-cast panels and systems, cast-in-place, masonry units, tilt-up panel systems, roofing tiles, terrazzo floors, highway median barriers, tile grout, swimming pools, stucco, culture stone,colored masonry products, cement paints and coatings, and ornamental precast concrete items.
CNBM INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION (short for the Company) is a subsidiary of China National Building Material Group Co., Ltd. (short of CNBM Group). China National Building Material Group is a state owned enterprise under directly management of the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of the State Council, and ranked 187 in the world's top 500 in 2019. China National Building Materials Group is the world's largest comprehensive building materials industry group, the world's leading new material developer and comprehensive service provider, and has the strongest scientific research strength in the field of building materials and non-metal new materials. CNBM INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION is a brand-new platform built by China National Building Materials Group that focuses on non-metallic materials trading.
Q:Are you a trading company or manufacturer?
A:CNBM is a large-scale central governmental industrial group with its own manufacturing sector, research and development sector, trading sector and logistics sector.
Q:I have some special requirement about specifications.
A:We have a well-rounded product range, which endows us with the capability of applying many special specifications. Please feel free to contact us with yours.
Q:Do you accept OEM service?
A:Yes, we do.
Q:What is your delivery time?
A:It depends on the size/complexity of your order and our own production schedule. Usually we provide a faster delivery than the industry's average.
Q:What is the payment term?
A:TT and LC are both Okay.
Q:Can I have my own logo on the product?
A:Sure, we can apply your own logo on the products according to your drawings.
- Q: I spoke to a tile guy recently and he told me that only cement board is acceptable for use in bathrooms. He said that green board is not. Why do the sell the greenboard if you cannot use it in bathrooms or areas that will take moisture?
- Greenboard is moisture and mildew RESISTANT not proof. Many local buildings have banned the use of greenboard in high moisture areas due to the fact that they can and many times do break down in time (average 10 years) Cementboard, wire lath and plaster are much better and more permanent solutions. Good Luck
- Q: do i have to put any thing down on the painted floor FIRST?
- if the floor is concrete then apply thin set ( this is not cement applied thinly) with a notched trowel. back butter the tile and drop in in. you can't install ceramic or stone directly to wood or plywood. even painted. you could use wonder board or hardie backer applied first, but I've had this stuff fail before. old skool way for wood get expanded steel mesh ( wire lath ) and put it on floor and nail or staple it to the floor. IT IS SHARP so wear gloves. you don't need to get it real neat and a gap uf a few inches is ok as long as that's not a grout line. then apply a good quality polymerized setting mortar, right hrough the mesh, such as versabond. you don't need additives just water.. you could also use flexbond if you want a little extra quality. when the floor sets up you have a very durable monolithic piece on the floor. I have been doing floors this way for years and I have never had a failure. I've even used it in applications where the deflection of the floor over it's span has exceeded the amount allowed. no failure and that's my ex, you gotta know that she would let me know. been 10 years if you don't get it right or skip the underlay or use mastic the floor will fail.. as noted by the grout coming out. the only cure for this is rip it out and start over.
- Q: will it peel off? or will it pretty much rip your flesh off?
- Rubber cement will rub off easily. You should get it off as quickly as practical. The glue does contain chemicals, and isn't the best thing to absorb.
- Q: and also does the cement have an affect on the water quality, such as ph, hardness...etc?and also if i do build it out of cement, do i still have to put down a pond liner?and also does anyone have any advice, or info on building a pond out of cement?THANK YOU
- Cement-by which I presume you mean concrete, is fine for building a pond. It Will have an effect on the ph of the water. Cement is alkaline so the lime content would be very harmful to fish and aquatic life in the short term. Eventually it would become neutral but you would need to waterproof it with something anyrate which would keep the water away from contact with the cement. You can use bitumen which you paint on or a sheet of strong plastic is often enough.. Dig out the shape you want first and then shovel the concrete into it but if the sides are steep then you will have to make the concrete very dry to prevent the concrete running back into the bottom. You can always then give a thin coat of wetter cement to the sides later if you prefer
- Q: I need to semi-permanently hang items on a cement wall. What is the best way to go about doing so?
- Hook and loop (velcro) tape. Glue one side to your item, and one side to the cement....larger pictures will need tape around all four edges to be secure, but it does work - I've done it before. Hope this helps. Good luck!
- Q: My father has been using a really loud and strong nail gun to mount stuff in our new place that has cement walls. I did some research and found that you should drill a hole and do a bunch of other stuff as safety precautions. The website i found said that if there was an earthquake, the walls would crumble if you used a nail straight into cement. Is this true?I live in an area where we dont even have earthquakes often at all, which is Southern Ontario, Canada, but im still a little concerned because we had one last summer. Also, We live on the 10th floor, so if an earthquake does happen, it would shake a lot more up here. He also has been mounting stuff on the cement ceiling as well.Should I be concerned?
- No. Always drill into cement or concrete. Drilling makes a cleaner hole without cracks. When you crack cement, water and get in and when it freezes and melts it expands and contracts, further cracking the cement and allowing more water in. Salts in the water and also dissolve chalk in the cement and water can rust the re-bar if it gets to them. If you think about it, a drill uses a screw to pull material out of the wall. A nail merely pushes it out of the way. Since cement isn't that flexible, it tends to crack when expanding or deforming. A drill hole also makes a more secure anchoring point, since you don't have cracks around it and the spiral hole gives more grip on bolts you wish to put in it. There are lots of how to videos on this, but use a concrete bit and use liberal amounts of water on the bit. This both cool the bit and helps dampen the vibration caused by the drilling.
- Q: Im screwing masonite to sheetrock then going over the masonite with a sheet of 4x8 laminate. This is on a wall. I want an adhesive that will give me at least 30sec to get it set right and square. But i dont want an adhesive I have to have constant pressure on for an hour either. Someone told me linoleum adhesive ? I do not want to use contact cement im a newby and need the workability time to get it on right.
- Contact cement is the way to go. Use wood strips to hold the laminate off the wall until ready to attach. Then just working down, remove the spacers. NO pressure need just rub down with a smooth block of wood in a towel. DONE. Did this method numerous times working in restaurants. Laminate makes a washable surface that lasts for years.
- Q: So I started taking pottery classes in my high school and like there was some weirdo drug in there so i just started buggin out. than this guy started rubbing cement all over me and now when ever i see wet cement or someone like mixing something that is going to get hard i get this weird sexual sensation what DO I DO!!!!! there recently was road work so i couldnt help myself but just jump into the cementy-goodness. ahh and now i have to pay a fee! what the hell am i going to do? this is involentary i cant even control my love for things that turn hard
- next time you have some cement, get some--must be wet and ready to dry; form it to whatever you would like(use imagination), let it get hard, (it should be big enough to keep in your pocket or purse) so whenever you feel this sexual urge or sensation getting hold of you hold it, rub it, cress it, or do what you need to do with it so that you can relax and feel fulfilled.
- Q: the concept is very difficult to understand wat is happening in the hydration of cement....its difficult catch up the points
- In the hydration of cement, chemical changes occur slowly, eventually creating new crystalline products with heat evolution Tricalcium silicate + Water ---> Calcium silicate hydrate+Calcium hydroxide + heat
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Highest quality for Portland Cement of Type IP Standard
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 500000 m.t./month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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