• Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1180.8
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A is one of the most popular color of LP Serie, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being good quality as well as the reasonable price compared with other suppliers.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface flatness as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A


 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1180.8 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.



Q: The house has been living for two years, these days do not know the weather is wet or how the matter, the bathroom tile actually fell a few pieces, but fortunately did not break. Now want to paste it back, I would like to ask, how to paste? With cement? Or what other glue? Do you want to drink again before There is also a problem with the brick at that time, but the closure or other problems? Another: Tiles are Mona Lisa. Thank you!
If the individual tiles fall off, you can re-use the pure cement paste the tiles, but if it is falling out of the tiles of the wall is not on the original cement cleared, then the cement paste will make this place higher than the original Out of the point, and the removal of the original cement with a certain degree of difficulty, because in this piece of empty space at the four corners of the cement is more difficult to remove, confused will not fall off the tiles broken. There is also a way to: buy a group of "AB resin glue", according to the instructions on the plastic tile in the fall of the reverse, in the paste to the original place, and so about 10 minutes after the initial curing, and so on 24 After hours, it will be a very good sticky. But if you use glue, it must ensure that the wall and the place to be tiled are dry, can not have humidity, otherwise it will stick.
Q: Is it possible to remove just the top row of the ceramic tile on my bathroom walls without damaging the remaining tile? I‘d like to replace the top row with glass tiles for a more updated look.
Score the grout pretty good with a putty knife or a dull blade, so when you pop the tiles off, they'll break along that line or you can get a multimaster tool >>>as seen on TV :)
Q: I want to replace my wood flooring with porcelain wood like tile because i have a dog but my uncle who is a contractor said because of the house not sitting on concrete foundation ( meaning you can go under the house) i can only install vinyl or wood flooring again because tile is too heavy but um we have tile in the kitchen and restrooms and my other uncle who has a two story home has tile upstairs so i dont get it
With your pet I would go with Pergo flooring - it is easy to clean, doesn't stain, easy to install and looks amazing.
Q: I had new stone tile laid in my bathroom. 18 x 18 pieces, diagonally laid. One piece by the edge must have been stepped on by one of the tile layers as they were leaving and it got pushed down, so it‘s not level with the rest of the tiles by a small fraction. Its not noticeable if you walk on it with shoes, but if you walk on it barefoot or if you get down and feel it with your hands, there is clearly a noticeable difference. The flooring company refuses to come back and fix it claiming I did it. The piece is on the edge butting up against carpet from the bedroom. Is there any way I can make this tile level myself to avoid the hassle of trying to sue or file complaints against the flooring company? Maybe cut out that one piece without damaging and just put a new layer of the cement underneath it? I don‘t know. I‘ve never done tiling before.
you can pick up a small tile saw at any tile /flooring outlet.it has a serrated edge for cutting into the grout that is around the tile.once you have removed the grout you should be abel to insert a wide blade putty knife under the tile and tap it in easy to loosen the tile once it is free clean the area of any adhesive and reset the tile.it is a shame that the co who did the install refused to come back and do the repair.if i were you i would file a complaint with the better business bureau in your area.good luck
Q: I have strip kitchen floor to sub floor. i am ready to install tiles. My question is: How to do the wet bed for laying ties later on.
I m assuming yo mean a mortar bed or a mud bed for tiles. You don t want to do this for later on as you say. You want to lay tiles soon after it s set so you don t ruin the mortar bed by walking on it. This isnt something you usually just do , it takes practice and a bit of experience and is hard work but worth it when done right. A wet bed is a base of cement that the tiles are installed as you go. Old fashion method rarely used anymore. Now a mud bed is used and then a thin set is used to adhere the tile down. If you want to do a mud bed e mail me through my avatar and I ll guide you through it. GL
Q: Just moved into a house with tile floors, I have fiber mopped, stick-vac‘d, wet mopped them and they still feel gritty on my bare feet. Anyone have any suggestions or will they always feel dirty?
have you checked the grouting, it may be disingrating - and need sealing or replacement.
Q: I have 12x12 field tile and a strip of accent that‘s about 2 high. Everything I‘ve read says that you want to have the accent at eye level, which makes sense to me. Judging for myself, it LOOKS best at eye level. If I place it at eye level, I wind up with a full 12x12 tile above it, or at least, a 12 space above it. So going down to the tub, I would have a 2 1/2 cut tile at the bottom, right above the tub.Everything I have read also says that you want to have the cut tiles at the top and bottom symmetrical.
Provided the tub is fairly level, start a full tile at the bottom and work up. Tile will look fine at a 5 or six foot level ( I prefer 5 ft.) Not every one has the same eye level so the strip will be fine. The tub surround will be a bit different too so what I suggest is measuring on the tub wall the tile heights and stand back and look at it. Use a pc of tape the approx width of the strip and tape it or draw it on the tub wall s prior to tiling. Will give you a better idea. Also take into account any fixtures you may put in such as a shampoo/soap shelf. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. I ve also have down 100s of tub surrounds. GL
Q: tile itself
There is a powered floor scrapper that can be rented. You have to buy the blade but it isn't that expensive. Most good tool rentals have them.
Q: I want to install vinyl over a tile floor. What procedures should I take? What adhesive? What prep on the ceramic?
Not a good idea, the vinyl will conform to the shape of the floor underneath and the indents of the grout lines will show through. If they are the small 1 inch by 1 inch tiles you can buy a product called floor leveler and put it over the tiles to create a smooth surface. It is a powder that mixes with water to create a plaster type mix. Ok for a small ie bathroom floor, huge job on a kitchen floor. The key to success is always in the prep. Make sure the underneath floor is very smooth before trying to put down vinyl. Another method would be to glue shower/tile backer board over the tile. This comes in quarter inch thickness and can be glued down using thin-set mortar, but with the new vinyl you will be raising the floor level by almost a half inch. This may mean that you have to trim doors from the bottom. It is not an impossible task and will be worth it if you really hate the tile. Keep in mind that if you use this method in a bathroom that the toilet will have to be removed and an adapter placed on the flange to make up for the height difference. If you own the house, I would remove the tile, if you rent, I would reconsider and probably use scatter rugs. If you are still going to do it, make a paper pattern or buy a pattern kit at the big box store. Vinyl does not necessarily need to be glued down, but gluing the edges will generally keep them from curling up. Good luck, there is a great deal of self satifaction in improving the look of a room and making it you.

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