• Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H System 4
Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60H

 


FAQ  

                 

    1. Q: May I have my own design?

      A: Of course. But the pictures or samples of the products should be offered by your party.

    2. Q: Can wall tile be used on the floor?

      A: Not in most cases. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.

    3. Q: What are your payment terms?

      T/T: 30% deposit and the balance should be paid before loading to container.

      L/C: L/C AT SIGHT.

Q: OK here is my problem. I want to switch my bath tub to an all-tile shower and wonder how to do it. So far the tile were set onto a cement board that was itself put on top of the drywall. I am wondering if this is a common thing. From all my research, it looks like tile should be on the cement board, but there is no use for extra drywall behind it. It actually makes things tougher because you need some sort of corner tile instead of normal bullnose since the cement board and the rest of the wall are not at the same level.My second question is: is there an order to do all this i.e. should I make the shower pan (sort of rubber sheet filled with cement), before or after I install the cement board on the wall. Is there a specific angle used for the drain?Thanks in advance for all your tips.
take off all tile and wallboard down to the studs.move all plumbing,use a pvc liner which bolts to the drain flange.when nailing the liner to the studs run the liner about a foot up the wall.no fastners 9in or lower or it will leak.put up your concrete board,remember no fastners 9in or lower concrete will hold the bottom.form a curb using 2x6s run the liner in the middle of the form. use a 2x6 braced against the back wall inside the shower to hold the form inside the shower. fill with concrete on both sides.i use quickcrete sand topping mix.let the curb dry for 24 hrs.pull the form.now pour concrete inside the curb. your pan should have a pitch of 1/4 in.for every foot from the drain.let dry again for 24 hrs.do not use wall mastic as adhesive for the tile, use mortar.i also use hydroguard 1 from dal-tile in the corners and seams.you can brush it on.now your ready to tile.if you dont have any bullnose ,you can use a metal trim. i use dal-tile #a100.get a mosiac tile for the floor so it will wrap the pitch of the floor.use a sanded grout on the floor.you can butt the tile joints on the wall but if you do, use a nonsanded grout.silicone all corners.putting in a custom shower is one of the hardest thing you can do in your home,
Q: self stick floor tile, vapor barrier
you don't need a vapor barrier. you need a extremly flat surface luan is great for tile. if you don't have a good surface then put luan down. use ribbed nails so they don't pull out of your sub floor use floor leveler to fill the seams unless you run tile along the seam
Q: Can I install vinyl tiles in a bathroom. Will it shift over time and look bad. How does moisture affect vinyl tiles?
It depends on the surface you put them on and the quality of the tiles. In most cases, with cheap peel and stick tiles that adhere to the surface below, they will tend to shrink, curl up at the endges and peel back after a while. It's not so much moisture as temperature changes and poor durability of the thin vinyl and poor adhesive. I'd recommend you use the Home Depot Allure line of peel and stick floating vinyl floor tile that is made by Trafficmaster. I just did a friend's bathroom with that product last weekend and was very impressed. The tiles stick to each other instead of the floor surface beneath so you can put them down over any solid surface and moisture will not effect them. They have a 25 year warranty also. At about $1.79 per square foot it is a pretty good deal and installation is a snap. We covered her entire 6' by 8' bathroom floor in less than 2 hours, including all the cuts around the toilet base and doorway. All you need to install it is a metal framing square or tee square, a sturdy pair of scissors, a measuring tape and a utility knife. Cool product. They make versions that look like tile and others that look and feel like real wood. We used the wood and it looks great. I've also used the Trafficmaster direct adhering commercial grade peel-and-stick tiles in areas that had moisture (an entryway and a powder room) with no problem but I made sure I had good birch plywood underlayment and I sealed it before laying the tile and also ran a bead of silicone caulk around the edges.
Q: I‘m looking to re-tile my kitchen... I would like to get good quality tile, at a good price. Can I trust tile purchased at any particular large hardware chain, or should I seek out a specialty flooring store? Or does it even matter that much - is tile just tile?
If you want a good price, go to Home Depot or Lowes. If you want a selection and expertise, to to a tile specialty shop. I live in a town with 350,000 people and we have about 6 shops that deal only in tiles. They will have enough options to make your head spin, and their sales people will know what they are talking about. If you like a particular tile at the shop, you can of course go and see if it is carried at a big box store and compare price. In my experience big box stores are short on selection. FWIW, installing tile isn't as hard as some of the other posters make it sound. I did my first DIY tile job in a bathroom at my first house. It turned out so well I have since done 3 more jobs and they all look professional quality. If you want to try to lay them yourself, just do some research first. Once you set your first course of tile, it is no different that putting a jigsaw puzzle together....and your design has no limits. Advice: if you are laying natural stone tile (slate, marble, granite) you have to seal the surface of the tile before gluing them down, or you will have an impossible time cleaning up the mastick. Ceramic or glass tile isn't really a problem.
Q: I am making a movie for school and i need to hang things from our ceiling to the ground. The problem is is that the ceiling is an acoustic tile and i‘m not sure if it will hold enough. (This is one of the older acoustic tiles with all of the holes in them.
If it's a suspended ceiling you're talking about, with the tiles held in metal framing, you can buy special little hooks that clip on to the metal framework. You should be able to get them at Home Depot, and probably office supply stores. You can also simply use a piece of thin wire and tie that around the metal frame, squashing it in a little so the tile sits flush again. If whatever you're hanging is too heavy for that metal framework, you have to take out a tile and find something higher in the ceiling that's sturdier. The ceilings are usually suspended from pretty strong wire. Find where that wire or other support is and you know where the strong point of the suspended part is. If it's acoustic tiles over a solid surface, you have to find a structural part inside the ceiling. A stud finder will come in handy for that but unfortunately you'll have to make a hole in the tiled surface to hang anything.
Q: I had asked the guy I am seeing to go somewhere with me tonight and he said he had to prep the floor before laying the tile? He has been working on a flooring job, but what do you do to prep a floor? Is this the same whether with tiles or hardwood?
Floor preparation in order; removing old flooring, removing foreign objects, cleaning, leveling and installing required under layment.
Q: tile itself
if it's ceramic/porcelain, go to home depot. Rent a hilti jackhammer with 2 different bits (they'll know which ones to give you). one is a narrow chisel that pops the tiles up. the other is a wide blade that will remove thinset. sometimes the wide blade works good for removing the tile, also. whichever works best for YOU. They will explain how to use it. It is WAY easy to use and you will NOT regret it! You will want to plastic off areas that you are not removing tile completely, there will be dust. good luck! don't be cheap and buy the handscraper! you'll hate yourself.
Q: How the gold fritters tiles
on the quality of tiles, but also concerned about the sale of goods, such as delivery To teach you some simple identification of brick quality is good or bad way: 1. to see the origin (the general quality of Guangdong brick better); 2 to see flatness; 3 to see if there are pores, particles; The earth tiles 30 to 40 pounds, the heavier the weight of the brick the greater the degree of porcelain, the higher the quality of the higher the quality of the theory is better); 5. listen to sound; 6 to see the water absorption (all ceramic tiles should not absorb the back of the water); Test slip resistance (in the case of water)
Q: We are renovating our bathroom and I don‘t want to take out the existing vanity just update it, we were considering tiling the countertop, can we go right over the existing laminate or should we remove the whole counter top, or is it possible to just take off the laminate?
I tiled over the laminate in my kitchen by sanding the laminate with coarse sandpaper....priming with oil-based kilz-it and then tiled and grouted. It's still in the kitchen for over 7 years. You could also remove the countertop from the cabinet and replace with 1/2 plywood topped with 1/4 cement board but you would have to cut out the whole for the sink. Tiling over it is much easier. Just figure out your tile layout. I used 12 tiles for my custom countertop in my bathroom.
Q: we‘re moving into a new home that has hot pink ceremic tile as the kitchen counter top and back splash. Can we paint over the tile or do we need to remove the tile and start over with a new counter top.
Don't do it. Remove the old tile and start over. You have to live with this for a long time (I'm assuming you own). Don't live with something thats not what you want. Even if you think down the road at resale value....a painted tile (I don't think you can even do it) would be a real black mark against the property.

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