• Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1105.92
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24 is one of the most popular color of COTTON ILLUSION series, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in our portfolio. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its anti slippery.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile, Color Body

  Only Grade AA available

         Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Plywood Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus:  35 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

        Slip-resistance: From R9 to R13

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 32 Ctns/Pallet, 768 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1105.92m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie GREY FOG CIGR24


FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1105.92 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers. 



Q: What is the best tiles?
Champion, Dongpeng Tiles, Nobel Tiles, Mona Lisa Tiles, Marco Polo Tiles and other top ten brands Not the best, only the most appropriate, different parts of the selection, the characteristics of different tiles, there is no need to be the best, neither economic nor nicely suitable for paving parts
Q: I had subway tile installed over a standard size tub. The tiler used 2 x 6 bullnose for the vertical boarder rather than maintaining the staggered look by using 3 x 6 bullnose short as I initially intended. Is there a most common approach for the vertical subway boarder around a tub?
I am going to assume the border is a 2x6 turned vertically. Normally a border tile is used and the grout lines rarely line up because of size. However, if you instructed the setter how you wanted it to look. That is what should be done. I belive you are paying him not the other way around. They do have tiles with the bullnose on the short side(left or right). Find a new tiler. Ask for money back. Stand your ground. I build new homes for a living. This kind of crap drives me nutz! Good luck.
Q: Hi, I was wondering what type of tile is easier to lay down on a bathroom floor, large, single tiles or small tiles that are connected together by mesh. I have never done anything like this before, so any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
The easties size is 12 x 12. Small tiles on the mesh are a real pain, each tile must be moved to get even. The tiles move around when you set in the morter. Tiles larger than 12 x 12 take extra care to keep level. Go slow.
Q: I want to install hardwood in all my house, except bathrooms.I currently have ceramic tile flooring. I know removing it and installing solid hardwood will be expensive.Can I install floaring hardwood over the ceramic tile?? I went to Lowe‘s, and the flooring assistant recommended me to to that. With the correct underlayment should be not trouble at all.Have you install it that way?? WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE??
Removing tile isnt all that hard, or expensive. It just takes some muscle. A good sturdy floor scraper willl pop most of the tile and grout loose, once you get a few tiles up. Once you get some space to move your scraper, they will start popping off. The toughest part will be removing the tile adhesive, depending on what was used, but not a major problem. The flooring assistant will be happy to sell you all sorts of pieces to a flooring sytem. You really dont need it. The fewer things you have under your wood floor, the better. The fewer things to go wrong down the road. Wood flooring, being tongue and groove, is hard to remove and replace if you have a problem with whatever is under it.
Q: Dont want to lay down the rock. Want to attach strait to the plywood due to dish washer stove and cabinets. What is the best way for long lasting tile strait to plywood?
You should not apply tiles on plywood, you'll be doing a great mistake, use a cement mortar directly on a concrete base, they'll last almost a lifetime....
Q: Currently the stairs are carpeted. I have heard that if this is not done properly the tiles will crack. How do I ensure that the stairs are level and stable enough for the tiles? Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
I am with Ronk on this one, leave tiling the stairs well alone.
Q: We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out
Q: What is the best thickness of the tile?
In Wuhan decoration online network looked at: tiles are generally divided into polished tiles, antique tiles, tiles three categories. Each type according to the size of the size of the thickness of the thickness are not the same, the general 800 * 800 polished tiles in the 9mm - 12mm or so, Seiko jade in the 15--18mm or so; tiles 300 * 450,300 * 600 in general 7-10mm or so; antique brick and polished tile thickness difference is not much, each manufacturer's specific brick thickness is not the same.
Q: Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.
try using Zud cleaner. found in Home Depot.
Q: I installed tile couple of days ago in my shower. I was wondering isn't it better to put bathroom caulking instead of grout since it is flexible and it will last longer and provide better water resistance. Does grout make tile stronger or is caulking only applied on edges? Would I make mistake if I used bathroom caulking between tiles? Thanks
Grout Vs Caulk

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