• Glass Mosaic MSC-567 2015 Hot Sale Design System 1
Glass Mosaic MSC-567 2015 Hot Sale Design

Glass Mosaic MSC-567 2015 Hot Sale Design

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m²
Supply Capability:
20000 m²/month

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Our glass stick mosaic tile is the most popular kitchen backsplash decoration material

among customers. In the shape of long and short thin sticks arranged in staggered

rows, this kitchen glass mosaic tile is suitable for decorating the whole wall. Besides, it can also be cut into border

tiles as customer requires and the mosaic borders will go well with the wall tiles.

 

 

 

Item Name:

glass stick mosaic

 

Item No.:

MSC-567

Series:

Vicia cracca

Material:

glass

Chip Size:

multi size

Sheet Size:

298x268mm

Thickness:

8 mm

Joints:

2 mm

Packaging:

11 sheets / box

Coverage:

1 sqm. (10.76 sq.ft.) / box

N. Weight

16.5 kg/ box

G. Weight:

17 kg / box

 

Q: bought home, tiles loose in shower, wonder if water damage is behind it
Tiles originally went on with an adhesive mortar and then grout. I suspect the grout fell out, and water softened the mortar and the tile fell off. Take the tile off and clean any loose mortar from behind it. Don't use the shower for a couple of days and let the area dry thoroughly. Buy some silicone adhesive that is not water soluble and re-stick the tile to the wall. Once it has been in place for 20 minutes, re-re-grout the tiles using a latex grout. Let it all dry a couple of more days and you are good to go.
Q: What is the difference between good and bad tiles
First, from the appearance of the quality of the quality of the tile: size is the standard to determine the quality of the key to the tile, with a tape or caliper to measure the diagonal and four sides of the tile size and thickness are uniform. Color difference, random out of the box to check a few, one by one comparison. There is a slight difference is a normal phenomenon. (Different batches of tiles generally contain color, it is recommended to buy a one-time purchase of the amount.) Can not have cracks, tiles appear cracks in the direction of the main lower uranium cracks, surface cracking, the general quality of the product less phenomenon. Brick to be flat, can not have bumps. The uranium layer of the brick is bright, but there are inclusions in the uranium layer or uranium layer. Followed by the inherent quality of the tile, first look at the water absorption: drop of water on the brick, see the water penetration speed. Good tiles, water droplets will roll on the brick. Listen to the sound: good tiles, sound crisp sound, indicating high porcelain content. If the sound "blah" with a stubble sound, indicating that the brick contains cracks.
Q: Hi Folks,Currently I have a bath tub with a vinyl shower surround. I‘m considering removing the shower surround and replacing it with tile.I‘m just wondering how big of a job this is? I‘ve never tiled before but consider myself handy and have done plenty around the house.Of note, I don‘t believe proper backboard is underneath the surround so I‘d have to put that up also. I‘ve put drywall up in the past so I think that part should be ok.So...is this a do it yourself job? Or is this something that needs to be hired out for. Seems like it should be simple, but maybe I‘m missing something and it gets complicated or difficult to make come out nice?Also, how long should this take if I did it myself (days and hours per day) and how long before I can start using the shower again.Thanks!
You can cut the edge of the tub off and lay the tile right to the top surface of the tub, leave a small gap for grout or caulking. make sure that the backer board is to the edge too. A sawzall will work with a fine blade.You will need to be careful when ya cut though. You can use thin set but there are different grades, use the more expensive one with the polymers in it if you want it to last for decades. You can also fur out the wall half inch or so to make up for the difference at the top of the tub, this will bring the backer board out to where you need it, where it is even with the top of the tub.
Q: I have thinset my slate tiles in place, and washed any thin set off as best as I can with water. I can‘t seem to get some of the thinset marks off, how important is this? Also, how long should I let the tiles dry before I can seal them? (I want to seal before grouting). One last thing, my sealer product says to grout 2 hours after sealing? This seems fast...will the sealer be dry enough?
Ideally you could have sealed your slate before setting (as long as you kept the sealer off the edges of the tiles). This would have made thinset and grout clean-up much easier. You really need to get all the thinset off your tiles. At this point you might need some hot water, a scrungy pad and some elbow grease. If that doesn't do it then you'll need to use a cleaning solution - maybe they have something where you bought the slate (make sure it's safe for natural stone). So after the tiles are thinset free, you can seal - again only the tops of the tile. If sealer gets down the sides your grout will not grab hold as well. Apply enough sealer to coat, but avoid puddling. You can grout after 2 hrs - but you can wait longer if you like. I would seal your grout after it dries as well. Hope this helped... Rich
Q: standard shiny, white 4x4 tiles. I want to redo the bathroom stalls, but heard from some people that it could take forever, and that i might end up messing up the the drywall? to me it sounds simple... just get a spatula or something of the sort and scrape off the tiles... is that how it goes or is it more difficult than that? has anyone out there done this? what tools would i need? what type of tile cutter do you suggest? i‘d like to replace the tiles with something bigger... maybe 10x10 tiles?
Being that your house is pretty new most likely the tiles are on drywall and set using latex glue. However if they were set using thinset cement on drywall it will be a little harder or if the builder used the older method and set the tiles in cement on wire mesh, then it's a beast and everything must come down. Using a stiff putty knife start at the top and tap the putty knife behind the tiles and gently pry away from the wall. You will have some damage to the drywall, apply drywall compound, let dry sand down and paint with primer. NOTE: Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves, broken tile is very sharp. Also protect your tub by installing a piece of plywood on top of it to prevent falling tiles from damaging it. It's also not a bad ideal to just tear out the drywall and tile and install new backer board. Maybe a little more work money but In the long run it will make for a much better job. If you are going to use that large of tile you really should tear it out and use the cement backer board and thinset as your glue as these tiles are heavy. Rent a wet saw to cut the tiles.
Q: I wanted to put ceramic tile over the linoleum (in good shape) in our bathroom (floor is concrete). Can I do this or do I need to remove all the linoleum? Thanks
My kitchen was tiled with ceramic over the linoleum..it has a concrete floor under it..it has no cracks or grout failure after 8 years. The tiler man just cut the curled edges like around the perimeter and he rough sanded the lino so the mortar would stick good. He said as long as the lino is still stuck good to the floor there is no problem tiling over it as long as it is prepped right. He must be right after all those years and still no problems! Removing old lino is a pain if it is still stuck really well.
Q: I am thinking about tiling 2 bathrooms in a rental property and planning to use 12x12 tiles costing $1 each. I want to use the same tiles for bathtub surrounds as well as floor. I am looking for some advice about the size of tiles that may be appropriate.Thanks
I built my entire shower, floor, wall, and even ceiling with 12x12 looks great, but you have to be patient on the walls, and ceiling. I have put many 12x12's on the walls of tubs. Make sure you use something for the spacers for the wall or they will slide down. A thin strip of 3/8 plywood works great. If you ever put them on a ceiling you have to use screws with large washer, and glue. You can take the screws out once the glue is cured. To grout a ceiling you have to use silicone caulk and then dust the grout let dry and then seal. Makes for one cool looking bathroom.
Q: I have ceramic tile in my bathroom and I don‘t like it. It‘s extra slippery and very cold in the winter. Yes I do use a rug but the parts that are exposed are cold. I want to put those peel-n-stick tiles on top of them, but what do I have to do to prepare the floor if it‘s even possible to do this? Thanks in advance for any tips and advice!
If you are going to be in your house forever, use carpet. If not, do not remove it as it is an asset to your property. If you use peel and stick in a bathroom, they will eventually start warping and lose their grip. I doubt the peel and stick tiles will be any better regarding temperature than the tiles you have now. Tiles are valuable when you go to sell and I would advise you not to change that. Use a rug if you want, but do not hide or change the tiles.
Q: I see Dongpeng ceramic tile on the packaging that write what the site, and then write the OF, OB what, I now Tangshan life, we say now Tangshan Dongpeng brick are Shandong, is that right?
Dongpeng factory in Jiangxi Fengcheng Feng mine, the right is the Smick factory, the left is Marco Polo plant!
Q: I‘m looking to replace a ceramic tile floor in my kitchen with a different style ceramic tile. The contractor says I have two options. He can either lay the new ceramic tile on the old, which will be cheaper than bringing up the old tile but then the floor will be raised 1 to 1 1/2 above current level. Or, he can take up the old ceramic tile but then he‘d have to remove the old layer of plywood and put down a new layer, which will be more labor-intensive and expensive. Is there any other issues regarding these two scenarios that I should take into account?
it is never a good idea to overlay anything, but it is your choice... myself i would remove the floor tile, check to make sure that the underlayment is well attached, if not you can screw down all the joints, put down luan board (screw and glue) which is 1/4 inch thick, using the correct thin set for what you have relay the tile floor. if there is any height differences around the cabinets simply use a small 1/4 round around the kick plates at the bottom of the cabinets, this will help with any cosmetic looks. when you get someone to lay the floor make sure they are bonded and insured and get any permits if needed for your area.

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