Factory Directly Polished Porcelain Tile

Factory Directly Polished Porcelain Tile

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1324.8

Supply Capability:: 1324800 m²/month

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Specifications

China polished porcelain tile
Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm
Surface:Nano polished finish
Water absorption:< 0.2 %
CE&ISO

China polished porcelain tile

Product Description

Basic Information :

tile type	Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles
certificate	CE, ISO9001
inished	Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished
Size	60x60 80x80
vailable in	many designs, size, colors

Features:

1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, building exterior,

3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4)Material: porcelain

5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

6)Available dimensions

Factory Directly Polished Porcelain Tile

Material	Porcelain
Dimension	600x600 300x600 300x300mm
Packing	Paper packing and wooden pallets
Finish	polished finish with superglossy
Usage	Floor and wall

It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc

We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on

web please there are many new products showing on our web.

Our products are good quality with reasonable price.

We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles

Specification and technology information:

· NANO polished

· Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

· Price terms:FOB Foshan

· Delivery:within 15~20 days after 30% deposit received

· Payment:T/T,L/C

· CE mark,ISO certificate

Q: i need to cut a hole in ceramic floor tile. i have tried many things such as dremel with different ceramic tile cutting attachments and a carbide hole saw.what should i try next?: In the plumbing section of most hardware stores a cable saw can be found its used to cut pipe in hard to reach areas. some will cut tile. In the drill bit area find a Glass/ Tile bit big enough for the cable and go to it. a coping saw may work other thought. use tile bit to start and nippers, files will work as well use water as a lube. I hope someone else has a better Idea for you.

Q: On those tiles, can you skate on them with ice skates. I was thinking about getting them but I wasn‘t sure. Last but not least, is there a different kind of tiles that are cheaper. Thanks!: I think I understand your question, the tiles you can't skate on unless you have roller hockey skates, it's called sport court. I play roller hockey and ice and the tiles for roller SUCK! If I were you I'd just go fin a certain kind of paint I can't recall the name of the brand, but paint the garrage floor with it and you can skate in there and stick handle if you have enough room. Hope this helps

Q: Do they resist stains, scratches/nicks and does it protect it from fading and making it easier to clean?The tiles will be going in my kitchen and pantry.Are unglazed tiles, ideal for high-traffic areas?: pro- easily cleaned. con- horrible glare from sunlight

Q: I have glazed porcelain tile to put in my bathroom, but the thing is... that is is only 1/4 of am inch thick... Is it still okay to use it?...: glazed tiles are fine to use in the bathroom, the important thing to remember is if they are set properly and to set on either mortar base or hardiboard. the main concern though, would be whether the surface is too smooth a finish when used on the floor, especially when the tiles are wet! this could become a hazard to your health! a lot of tiles used in a floor application, have a sanded or rough finish ,just because of that !

Q: I have old, crumbly tile as a subfloor in my apartment. I recently put in vinyl flooring when I took my carpeting out. It now looks as if this tile (wood-like vinyl planks) are taking the shape of the subfloor, which was not perfectly even. I don‘t like that I see shadows of peaks and valleys in the new flooring in certain light. It also doesn‘t feel even when I walk on it barefoot, but I‘m extremely particular.1. Should a coating have been applied to even-out the old tile BEFORE the vinyl flooing was installed? (the company didn‘t want to take these up as they felt it was asbestos. the worker who installed the new floor said the old floor did not need a coating)2. Was this vinyl tile installed correctly?3. If it wasn‘t installed correctly, could this affect the vinyl tile/planks over time -- could it warp, perhaps? 4. What do I do if it was installed incorrectly and the company does not do anything about it without a fee?? (There‘s a warantee on the floor IF it was installed correctly only): Your new floor will look good when new, but will eventually match the surface of the floor that it was installed on top of. How much this bothers you is a matter of personal taste, but your contract should specify the installation standards. If the installation matches the specs in the contract and you simply don't like the way it turned out, you're pretty much SOL. Doubtful you'll get much satisfaction from the installer.

Q: I have kitchen tiles that have long term stains like broth and sauce stains. They won't come out with standard tile cleaner. Should I used bleach or will something else work better?: Are we talking vinyl tile or ceramic? The longer a stain sits, the harder it is to remove. I like oxyclean. Mix some up and soak the stains with it. Then there's Hydrogen peroxide. It works well on some organic stains. Mix up a paste of baking soda and white vinegar, smear it on the stain, let it sit for a bit, then wash it away. You could also go to your local restaurant supply store, most towns have at least one, and check out their industrial strength cleansers. They generally work well, and are not as expensive as commercially sold stuff. You don't need to own a restaurant to shop there. Stain removal is hit or miss. You just have to find something that the stain reacts to well.

Q: I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?: If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...

Q: I‘m trying to tile a map using swing (JPanel and JFrame) but don‘t know where to start. Ideally the map would end up looking like pokemon or 2D zelda games, where there is an invisible, underlying grid, and the person occupies one spot at a time. Does anyone know how to do this?I can get a sprite to move, but that‘s based on pixels, not on tiles. If you know how to do this, can you paste code and explain it?: That's the most efficient way to do it. You use math to calculate positions, so the tiles are virtual. Unless you really need to draw tiles with boundaries, don't show them (like the original Warcraft game). Perform all of your calculations like movement and clicks-to-tile conversions based on pixel location. This is far more efficient that trying to do it with lots of actual Java subpanels merged together. But, note that it's a lot of work and you have to carefully work out your calculations to make sure your clicks are aligned correctly. One mistake I made with a hex map once was I used doubles and I casted them to integers too early, and the slight different (by losing percentage) threw all my calculations off slightly. The trick is to create your background image tiles so that they blend seamlessly together on all sides. That will take a LOT of effort.