Competitive Price Hot Sale Best Price Solid welding wire ER70S-6
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 20 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 30000 m.t./month
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Quick Details
Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)
Model Number: AWS A5.18 ER70S-6
Approved by: CCS,ABS,LR,TUV,DB,FBTS,CWB
QMS: ISO9001 ISO14001
Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Details: | Packing: net weight_1kg, 5kg, 15kg precision layer wound on plastic spool, each spool in a box, then boxes on wooden pallet. |
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Delivery Detail: | within 20 days after confirmed orders |
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Specifications
solid welding wire ER70S-6
1)Size:0.8-1.6mm
2)Suitable for vehicles,bridges,construction,machinery etc
3)spool pack
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Quick Details
Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)
Brand Name: DA Yunhe
Model Number: AWS A5.18 ER70S-6
Approved by: CCS,ABS,LR,TUV,DB,FBTS,CWB
QMS: ISO9001 ISO14001
Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Details: | Packing: net weight_1kg, 5kg, 15kg precision layer wound on plastic spool, each spool in a box, then boxes on wooden pallet. |
---|
Delivery Detail: | within 20 days after confirmed orders |
---|
Specifications
solid welding wire ER70S-6
1)Size:0.8-1.6mm
2)Suitable for vehicles,bridges,construction,machinery etc
3)spool pack
Product Description
| YH49-1 | YH50-6
| YH50-6 (YHG4Sil) | YH-60 | YH-70 |
| GB | ER49-1 | ER50-6 | ER50-6 | - | - |
| AWS | | ER70S-6 | ER70S-6 | - | - |
| DIN | | SG2 | SG3 | | |
| ISO EN14341 | | 3Si1 | 4Si1 | | |
GaugeΦ(mm) | 0.8-1.6 | 0.8-1.6 | 0.8-1.6 | 1.2-5.0 | 1.2-5.0 |
Welding wire chemical composition (%) | C | ≤0.11 | 0.06-0.14 | 0.06-0.14 | ≤0.12 | 0.07 |
Mn | 1.8-2.10 | 1.40-1.60 | 1.60-1.80 | 1.40-1.80 | 1.56 |
Si | 0.65-0.95 | 0.80-1.00 | 0.80-1.2 | 0.50-0.80 | 0.55 |
P | ≤0.030 | ≤0.025 | ≤0.025 | ≤0.025 | 0.012 |
S | ≤0.030 | ≤0.025 | ≤0.025 | ≤0.020 | 0.003 |
Cr | ≤0.20 | ≤0.15 | ≤0.15 | ≤0.45 | 0.07 |
Ni | ≤0.30 | ≤0.15 | ≤0.15 | - | 0.94 |
Mo | - | ≤0.15 | ≤0.15 | ≤0.30 | - |
Ti | | ≤0.15 | ≤0.15 | ≤0.15 | 0.012 |
Cu | ≤0.50 | ≤0.50 | ≤0.50 | ≤0.20 | 0.15 |
Mechanical properties of deposited metal | Yield Strengthσs(Mpa) | ≥372 | ≥420 | ≥420 | ≥450 | ≥530 |
Tensile Strengthσb(Mpa) | ≥490 | ≥500 | ≥500 | ≥570 | ≥650 |
Elongationδ5(%) | ≥20 | ≥22 | ≥20 | ≥19 | ≥20 |
Akv impact J(℃) | ≥47 (room temperature) | ≥27(-30) | ≥47(-20) | ≥27(-20) | ≥40(-30) |
Shielded gas | C02 | Ar+C02 | Ar+C02 | C02 | CO2 |
Application | YH49-1 | Used to welding steel for ship building)A32,E32,D32,A36,E36,D36) and mild steel products with strength at 490N/mm2 degree, such as mild alloy steel 16Mn,15Mn etc. to produce turn ace, rubes for vessel, contained building etc. |
YH50-6 (3Sil) | Apply to ships of steel (A, B, D, E, A36, D36, E36) and at the same level of intensity of low-alloy steel welding important structures. Such as containers, vehicles, construction machinery, semi-automatic and automatic gas shielded welding. |
YH50-6 (YHG4Sil) |
YH-60 | Used to coal machinery and heavy machinery for welding, oil pipe lines etc. |
YH-70 | Used to coal machinery and heavy machinery for welding, oil pipe lines etc. |
- Q: So I need to tap a few wires, and cut 1 wire and join it with another wire..What would be the best way to approach this? Here are the full instructions so you guys have an idea on what I'm trying to do.quot;On the TAN plug there is 1 ALL PINK(E7) wire you need attach the WHITE wire from your relay to that but don't cut the PINK wire just tap the WHITE into it.Next go the the GREY BCM plug there are 3 WHITE wires.
- The instructions seem pretty straight-forward. T-Taps and squeeze-connectors are basically the same thing; achieving the same results, which is to add a connection to an existing wire without interrupting the line. Just make sure you use the right size and type, meaning; don't use a low-voltage connector for a high-voltage application... You'd just fry it up. For the cut wires, I'd use crimp-connectors and some shrink-wrap. Again, using the correct connector. You can use wire-nuts, but the crimp-connectors are a more permanent fix. Good luck to ya.
- Q: Source 115V 20A breakerI have 12/2 wire and want to wire this:GFCI 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacleI have basic wiring skills, just need reassurance. Thanks.
- Do you have 12/2 with ground? Use three wire cable. Start at the last receptacle. Connect the black to the brass colored screw, white to the silver screw, bare to the green screw. At the middle receptacle, use a wire nut to connect both blacks to a 6 inch piece of black wire. Fasten that short wire to the brass colored screw of that receptacle. Connect the white wires together with a 6 inch piece of white wire and connect that to the silver screw. Do the same thing with a 6 inch bare wire to the ground of the middle receptacle. Secure those receptacles to the boxes and put the little sticker (GFCI protected) on the cover plates. On the GFCI receptacle you will find two terminals across from each other marked load. Connect the black and white wires going to the middle receptacle to those terminals, keeping them on the correct side. The terminals will be marked. Connect the white and black coming from the circuit breaker to the terminals marked line. Again keep the white and black on the correct side. Use the 6 inch piece of bare with the 2 bare wires to connect to the ground screw on the GFCI. Fasten the GFCI into the box and put the cover on. Now go to your panel. Put the white wire in an empty lug on the neutral buss with all the other white wires. Do the same with the bare wire to the ground buss with the other bare wires. Connect the black wire to your new circuit breaker with it turned off. Turn it on and test the GFCI by pressing the reset and then the test button to make it trip. Reset it. That's it. William, many local jurisdictions require pigtails in this case. I don't know where MMike is from, so I used the more restrictive code. And in my humble opinion, when you shove 4 stiff 12 ga wires on screws back into the box, you have double the chance a screw is going to turn and loosen, giving you a bad connection, not NEC code there, just me and over 45 years experience. Thanks Russ.
- Q: hello,i have lots of 8 gauge wire resting at my closet. And i'm very interested on doing the big 3 upgrade to my 2000 mitsubishi eclipse gt. May i see any improvement with 8 gauge wire?...i know that at least 4 gauge is recommended...but i dont want to spend money.
- You probably won't see/hear a difference even if you use 1/0 wire, but there will be one. 8 awg big three will probably at least double the current carrying capacity of your stock wiring. To say it would be a waste of time would be ignorant IMO. It certainly won't hurt anything and will make a significant reduction in resistance compared to what's already there. I did my big 3 with 8 awg. I'm running 1500w rms with a stock 130A alternator.
- Q: Most of the peoples know that i am a tv junkie and love to watch episdes wire episodes and others as well but what if i want to watch wire episodes online.i mean what would you guys make most use and also like to recommend?
- See okorder / ..its an okorder site...for all all kinda stuff on tv shows
- Q: I made a kill switch for my car. All I need to do now is cut the wire that goes into my engine control module and join it with the switch I made. Would it be fine if I just use wire nuts or some sort of tape to join the wires instead of soldering? The instructions say quot;Step 6: Attach the killswitch wires one to each side of the wire you just cut. Step 7: Tape up all new connection.quot;It says to tape the new connections, but should I use exactly?
- Solderless crimp-on butt connectors. $3.00 at Home Depot or Autozone.
- Q: A wire has a resistance of 21.0 ohms. It is melted down, and from the same volume of metal a new wire is made that is three times longer than the original wire. What is the resistance of the new wire?
- The resistance of the new wire is (in terms of its length, area resistivity); R2 = pL2/A2 And the resistance of the original wire is; R1 = pL1/A1 The ratio is;(resistivity will cancel because its the same for both situations) R2/R1 = L2A1/L1A2 given L2 = 3L1 R2/R1 = 3A1/A2 To find the new cross-sectional area ,require the volumes to be equal; L2A2 = L1A1 3L1A2 = L1A1 A2 = (1/3)A1 Sub this into the R2/R1 equation to get; R2/R1 = 9 R2 = 9R1 = (9)(21) = 189 ohms
- Q: there is different gauge wire sizes in the power/ground and speaker wire? which is better? what is the difference? buy ground power and speaker wire the same gauge?
- the 4 gauge is twice as thick as the 8 gauge.and the speaker wire should be speaker wire not 4 or 8 gauge wire.and 4 gauge is the way to go for power and ground off your amplifier.you can buy heavier speaker wire for your sub woofers from any car audio dealer by the foot.whatever thickness wire you use to power your amplifier is the thickness you use to ground it.and ground your amplifier as close to the amplifier as possible to a clean steel area with a self tapping screw and a o ring clip on the ground wire.both power and ground should be the same thickness.the speaker wire is up to you.
- Q: I bought a bathroom fan timer and tried to install it. It has four wires and the wall switch circuit has only 3 wires. What do I do?
- 4 Wire Switch
- Q: im installing an amp and i have no clue what to do with thw power wire.... I read to cut open my steros power wire (usually the blue) and wrap my power wire around it... I found the blue wire but there was a tag... Caution Remote output only... This is not the wire for power supply. please connect this wire to the remote for the amplifier... Does this mean i just connect this wire directly to my amp?
- ok wait hold up. so the only wire that should be hooked from the amp to the headunit is your speaker wires, remote turn on wire, and your rca cables. ....What you need to do is get the power cable(usually red) run it from positive on the battery to the POS on your amp. next put your ground wire from the GND on the amp to bare metal on your cars chasis.
- Q: there is a loose wire in my labtop charger wire. can i fix it or prevent it from happening.
- Loose wires just happen - from the way a cable is bent, moved, stored,wrapped, etc... I think (providing it doesn't happen right after you get the product) that it's pretty much normal wear and tear over time. You could try to repair it, but it would involve removing the cable sheath and re-attaching the loose wire which may need soldering. You're probably better off just buying a charger. In my experience, cables tend to last longer if you don't tightly wrap or twist them during storage; I generally just loosely fold them.