boiling water pump L3D-20-80-H

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 300 sets set/month

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Product description:

Product: Boiling water pump

Model:L3D-20-80-H

Appilication:

for hot water over 400 degree

for boiling water which needs 8 bar

Product specification:

flow rate：20m3/ hour, 480m3/day.

Pressure: 1bar - 8 bar

pump diameter: 296mm

Pump installed on the ground, outlet size:3"

with AC motor, motor power:5.5kW, 380V , 3 phase

but only need motor power:3.2kW(while Grundfos pump needs at least 7.5kW power, our pump can save more than 50% power,save USD3715 per year for electricity fee.

Material:

Pump inside: stainless steel and wearable nylon,it enables our solar pump to have 10 years sevice life and undertake 400 degree high temperature.

Motor : AC motor, 380V , three phase , 50Hz. The pump also can connect with solar power.

Certification:

3 International patent

ISO9001

Warranty:2 years

Q: I live in Scotland. I know it's summer but I am still cold. My heating is not working. I want to have a bath and there is no hot water. My boiler is pretty new and was working fine yesterday. What is the deal?: Check the fuse/breaker. Is it on a timer? If it is gas, is the pilot lit or is it self igniting?

Q: because the fact at high altitude water boils faster, steam generated will be much faster, is it true?: No. The temperature at which water boils in the boiler depends on the pressure inside the boiler, not on atmospheric pressure.

Q: What are the boiler pressure parts! The: Drum Boiler: Boiler, header, water wall tube, down pipe, convection tube bundle, buried pipe, return steam pipe, superheater, reheater, economizer, desuperheater and so on.

Q: when I wire a two stat system one for wood boiler and another stat for furnace and central air my central air is getting back fed power, how do I resolve without putting in a winter summer switch?: The exact setup is dependent on several elements to include make and model of thermostats, make and model of the central air system, make and model of the boiler, and the type of wiring used to connect the systems. Without knowing the specifics, nobody can provide you with an adequate answer. It is possible that your system setup would require the use of a isolation switch when operating the central air.

Q: Classification of boilers: Boiler classification methods are many, according to the use of the boiler points, can also be the structure of the boiler, fuel types, but also by the water cycle, pressure classification

Q: The total heating BTU of my radiators totals to 62,000 BTU'S.Can i get away with installing a 60,000 BTU boiler as it is also going to run the hot water.. or should i go for the next size up?? (preferably vaillant boilers)Thanks: as a vaillant boiler engineer this is the minimum i can recomend 80000 btu's is approximate to 24 kw if you add water to your heat requirement you will need around this. vaillant appliance suitable to you are - ecotec pus 624 (sealed system) i.e no heaer tank in loft but radiators and water cylinder ecotec plus 424 (open vented) as above with header tank in loft and pump outside boiler ecoted pro 24 (combi boiler) ecotec plus 824 (combi with flap) these are minimum requirements an all these modes have higher powered machines

Q: I have a Procombi boiler and for some weeks now the green light has been flashing intermittently every 0.5 seconds (but working fine). Now however, it is a constant red and fails to work. I suspect this may be an issue with needing to re-pressurise the system (2.3 in the users manual) since the pressure seems low (around 0.3 bar) but I’d like some confirmation of this!Is this something I can sort out easily myself?: Hi if you look under your boiler you will see a filling loop it is a flexible silver pipe with a valve at each end, it will look like this: www.google .uk/imgres?imgurl=ht... sometimes they only have one valve. all you need to do is turn the valve tap until it is perpendicular (straight) to the pipe , this means it is open, open both, you may hear water running. watch the pressure gauge when it is just above 1 bar turn it off. do not put more than 1.5 bar in as the water needs to expand (about50%) when it gets hot. Now your boiler will work again. NEXT thing to do is look for the cause of your problem. firstly bleed all of the radiators it may just be a build up of air causing the pressure loss. this is simple and can be done with a Radiator bleed key. then check the pressure relief valve, it will be a pipe coming out of the wall behind the boiler, check to see if this is dripping water, if it is: your pressure relief valve will need to be replaced. check all the valves to the radiators you are looking for a very small amount of water from one of these or a sign it has been leaking, ie limescale/staining if you find one that is leaking tighten it up or replace it. the only other option after this is a concealed pipework leak, look for damp patches on your floor or in the ground floor ceiling. leaksalant can be added to a system to remove small leaks but this is a job for a Professional as this can cause damage to the boiler/pump if done wrong. good luck, stay warm.

Q: I asked a question here on replacing my boiler and got a great responce! THANK YOU!My question now on my system which is a baxi (i think) back boiler, on the front fire there is a pull off panel to which reveals the thermostat, this goes from low,1,2,3,4,high, all my radiators have control dials to which i can control temperature, does this back boiler thermostat just control the water temperature or does this affect the radiators also? also on the other end of my radiator is just a cap with a + and - symbol , a user Robert J has gave me advise to not have these fully open which THEY WERE! so i will sort this tonight! thanks guys: That thermostat probably sets the internal water temperature in the boiler. It most likely controls both the hot water temperature and the temperature of water circulated through the radiators. Try the manual valves on the radiators at about half a turn open to start with. Turn the thermostatic valves to maximum while setting up so they do not confuse the test. All the radiators should get warm at a roughly equal speed when set right, so if one gets hot noticeably faster close the valve on that a fraction and open it a touch on the slowest until they are something like even. Once all the radiators are hot, set the radiator thermostatic valves to the appropriate temperature. Quite a few are marked 1 to 5 with 3 being around 21'C and roughly 3'C per number. Once a room gets to it's set heat and the radiator flow settles, you should find that the top centre of the radiator is noticeably warmer than the bottom at the middle. Without thermostats on the hot water tank and in a room, the boiler will be running or staying hot all the time the heating or hot water is enabled, and the pump running for heating, which costs money. If you have a friendly electrician, the wiring for room and tank thermostats is quite simple. The link below has info on this the first link 'Gravity hot water wiring diagram' has the electrical info. My setup is based on that, but with a modern 7 day programmer rather than the simple time switch. If you do that, it needs to be a programmer than has the option for 'Gravity hot water' - not all do. The heating output feeds the room thermostat and the hot water output feeds the cylinder 'stat. The parts cost should be under ?100 and you will see immediate savings on your gas bill.

Q: Sorry it's not much detail but i thought an experienced engineer would recognise the symptoms.: Wish you would put make and model when asking these type of questions. Many boiler have there own little problems some more than others. If the system has a bypass on the heating side then the water can return to the boiler without the full system getting up to full working temp. Is the boiler a PUMA 80 /100 if so it could be the wax operated diverter valve this will make the rads sluggish to warm up and also affect the DHW. Next I would look at the water temp sensors, these make the boiler modulate the heat output some in a stepped fashion (High, Med. Low, Off ) they can go strait from high to off in one step . A low output on the pump will give a similar situation the water is heating up faster than it is passing through the boiler. One other thing to all that post questions of a technical nature would be the location UK USA etc. things are so different across the water. CORGI Reg. engineer

Q: We have all our windows open 45F outside and it's 85 inside. A bathroom remodeling contractor was supposed to replace our hot water baseboard today with a towel warmer (Hudson Reed - it's gorgeous). Anyway, he called me today and said he felt uncomfortable draining the system since there was no shut off valve and he wanted to call in one of his HVAC guys. Then he later said he didn't want to leave us without heat for the weekend so they left it alone. I feel like some sort of override switch must have been thrown - the thermostat is not controlling the system. We set it down to 55F and it's still pumping out fire. I see some switches in the ceiling, but I don't know what they do. On looks like a dual push button (probably one or the other is always depressed). The other looks like a light switch and it is flipped to ON. I don't even want to think about what the gas bill for this is going to be, let alone what it could be doing to the boiler itself.: What is the best way to shut off the gas? I can flip the lever on the pipe to off, or use one of these switches I mentioned above??

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