HUAYUAN high-end horizontal biomass boiler--581KW

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This boiler is 581KW one.

Introduction:

The first horizontal biomass boiler in China Brand: HUAYUAN

High-end product---Longxiao series A, B, C

Technical features:

By the great effort, HUAYUAN has developed the first biomass boiler without grate. There are three kinds of hot water boilers as following:

Longxiao Series A: blue touchscreen control system, burning any biomass fuel without dark smoke.

Longxiao Series B: colorful touchscreen control system. motor frequency control system. drain the coked fuel in the combustion procession. burning all coked biomass fuel.

Longxiao Series C: large colorful touchscreen control system. intelligent control system, internet control system. drain the coked fuel in the combustion. burning all coked biomass fuel.

Characteristics:

1. Different from tradition vertical boiler, any parts of boiler could be checked and repaired. Even the fire pipes in the boiler could be replaced without boiler disassembled.

2. HUAYUAN adopts world leading patent combustion system. Boilers without grate will need no more grate transporting to solve coked fuel burning problem.

3. High temperature in the hearth could be controlled to make sure that temperature is enough high to do biomass pyrolysis gasification and complete combustion. With specially designed

airflow spraying, tar will not be attached to the hearth after longtime combustion and pipes will not be blocked by the attached tar, it will do little effect on the boiler's efficiency after long time using, this is what users will neglect. Long-time energy saving is what matters.

4. As store is directly connected to the hearth, many biomass boilers catch fire easily. Applying anti-back fire structure and back-flow prevention device, so that only biomass fuel can be put into hearth, high temperature airflow can't flow into bunker. We are equipped with safety fire protection device, even when the back-flow prevention device fails, automatic monitoring feeding system will start to force high temperature into hearth. Boiler will stop working only after cleaning all the fuels.

5. Change the traditional boiler feeding way, decrease the feeding height of bunker, increase the capacity, reduce the labor strength.

6. Traditional biomass boiler only monitor output water temperature, Longxiao series adopts touchscreen control system, clients can monitor the parameters of temperature of input water, output water, smoke, fuels in bunker, combustion in hearth etc. After the change of relevant data, it will timely remind the user of maintenance, so that to allow user to get more information about running status and energy-saving data.

7. First one to apply internet control system in biomass fuel industry, you can monitor the boiler everywhere with internet.

8. Under intelligent control, boiler will automatically operates from start-running-stop-restart. You could be an online boiler operator with high efficiency and 6 safety protection settings.

Product specification: covers from 10*104Kcal~180*104Kcal （this list shows parts of specifications for reference)

Item		Unit	CLHS0.12		CHLS0.24		CLHS0.35		CHLS0.48		CLHS0.60		CLHS0.73
Rated head		Kcal	10*104		20*104		30*104		40*104		50*104		60*104
Rated discharge pressure		Mpa	0（Normal pressu re）
Rated temperature of outlet water		℃	85
Rated temperature of return water		℃	60
Heat efficiency		%	90
Water inlet		MM	40	50		50		65		65		80
Water outlet		MM	40	50		50		65		65		80
Drain hole		MM	40	50		50		65		65		80
Vent hole		MM	40	50		50		65		65		80
electricity		KW	1.1	1.5		1.8		2.2		2.7		3.2
size	length	MM	2060	2360		2560		2790		2820		3200
	width	MM	650	738		850		1010		1060		1150
	height	MM	1760	1760		1760		1960		1960		1960

Q:1025t / h boiler what it means: Note: meet the requirements is that the design of the boiler, and the boiler in the chromium marked on the rated steam parameters, the general capacity of the boiler there are steam pressure, steam temperature, furnace feed water temperature.

Q:Have a 5 yr old vokera combi boiler situated in cellar of a 3 storey house with some original 4 inch lead pipes. The pressure is always very low - about 0.5 on the dial. Get heating ok (although rads are noisy - a low hiss) and hw after about 45 secs. Should I be worried about the low pressure even though hw and heating are generally ok? Also one radiator doesn't work. Whilst fitting a new TRV, the plumbers discovered a blockage was preventing water flow as when they took rad off and opened up valve no water came out. They suggested the system needs power flushing (at a cost of some ?500!!). Could the low boiler pressure and this blockage be related? Is there a cheaper option than power flushing? Would really appreciate any help on this. I think possibly a combi boiler is innappropriate for the size of the house!: My husband says..... If the right boiler was bought in the first place (powerful enough for the number and size of radiators), then you should be OK. Combi boilers usually run at 1-1.5 bar. 0.5 bar Is low. Not sure what you mean 'always low'.Are you saying it is 0.5 all the time or are you saying you re-pressurise the system to 1-1.5 bar and it drops. If the former, then you can repressurise the system. There should be a pipe with a tap linking the cold water feed pipe with one of the heating pipes. Open the valve slowly. The pressure should start to rise. When it reaches 1.5 bar, turn it off. Don't over-pressurise or you could bust a radiator. If the latter, you have a leak in the system somewhere that is allowing the pressure to drop. Find it, fix it! I cleaned out my system by draining the system down and refilling with clean water and added a flushing agent (available from DIY stores). I then ran the system at maximum for a week (not good in warm weather!!). I then drained the system down again, refilled with clean water and ran the system again on maximum for a couple of hours. I repeated the process a couple of times until the water coming out was clear. I then refilled the system again this time adding an inhibitor fluid (again available from DIY stores). The problem with the radiator could be a sticking thermostatic valve. I had one and cleared it by taking off the adjustment barrel (you may need an instruction leaflet or try the manufacturers web site for instructions as to how to do this), pushing the brass pin coming out of the end fitting attached to the radiator in and out a couple of times with the end of the screwdriver then reassembling the valve. The radiator should then begin to get hot. If that does not work, try opening and closing the lockshield valve (the one at the the other end of the radiator) a couple of times (you never know it may be locked closed). Hope the above helps

Q:What is the kiln? How is it different from the boiler?: The history of thousands of years of human ceramics burning, has accumulated a wealth of kiln style and experience.

Q:Our boiler in the building keeps flicking on and off and on and off and the pipes keep making these loud cracking sounds. Anyone know what causes that? (already waiting to here back from the landlord): The boiler probably has either too much, or not enough water in it. Look at it and see if there is a glass tube that shows water level. There should be a mark on it to show you where the level should be.

Q:i'm thinking of a house i like, but i' not sure about the heating system: Ask the seller how old the boiler is, and to show you when it was last checked. When you have a home inspection as part of the purchase contract, be there to ask boiler questions of the inspector. If the boiler is good, and you like the house, good luck in the future.

Q:What is the difference between the row of the boiler and the hydrophobic body of the body, and what are the other: The row of effluent pipes is located at about 10 to 15 cm below the evaporation surface of the drum. The purpose of the effluent here is to take into account the higher concentration of the furnace under the evaporation surface, which will cause the furnace

Q:now if you have a sealed unit cold pressure at 12 psi and only goes up in psi when on why do u need a expansion tank when the pipes can handle well over, yah i know the relief velve lets loose at 30 psi: If you didn't have the expansion tank the pressure would go above 30 pounds every time the boiler heated.Which would open the relief valve and dump water. That would have to be made up to maintain the correct pressure when it cools.The relief valve is in place so that in the event of a control failure and the boiler continues to heat it can never build up enough pressure to blow seals out or rupture pipes.All this safety equipment is in place because many years ago someone learned some lessons the hard way.

Q:in a bio mass power plant: have you ever done the experiment where you disolve salt in water, then boil the water to only be left with salt? Same concept. The water used has all kinds of sediments in it. When the boiler heats up and makes steam to power the steam turbines, it leaves behind all of the sediment. Too much sediment build up could reduce the efficiency of the boiler or even cause it to rupture. By blowing it down, you remove the sediments from inside the boiler and basically flush them away.

Q:to re-position any replacement to the current 'Diplomat' cast iron model would be very awkward and with an open vented gravity system could I possibly get exemption from John Prescotts 'SEDBUK A/B' ruling by fitting the most efficient alternative (as a condensing boiler might not run at top efficiency anyway without significant modifications all round)Why is there no reference from boiler manufacturers to SEDBUK B grade. I think wet Central Heating is getting too complex and I may consider gas wall heaters instead.Are things improving out there regarding earlier 'teething' troubles with condensing boilers and are conventional boilers still being manufactured?: you make some good points. i myself dont think i would ever retro fit a boiler. if i were to put one in today, it would be in a new home, and designed accordingly. i am fearful of old piping starting to leak. i dont know how big your house is but have you considered just switching to a forced air system? efficiency is also a concern with old piping because of the massive size of it. to do it right , it sounds like it may cost you quite a bit , no matter what you choose. at least with forced air, you would benefit all the way around. just dont know how practical it would be for you...

Q:If a bath is filling upstairs, taps down stairs cannot be used at the same time?: Yes you are right. A combi is a one tap boiler, but you can put as many taps as you like on the circuit, but you will only get a full flow from one at a time. If somebody runs the bath, you have to wait before you fill the sink. But they are only suitable for small places and this is not really a problem, you just have to learn to live with it. The only real problem with them is if you are running a shower and somebody else turns a tap on downstairs, the shower stops running just as you are going to wash the soap from your eyes. No fun that. But all systems have this same problem to a greater or lesser degree. So go ahead and get a combi, as long as you understand they have limitations , they are very good.

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