• Anticorrive Material Monel 400 (Uns N04400) System 1
Anticorrive Material Monel 400 (Uns N04400)

Anticorrive Material Monel 400 (Uns N04400)

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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Product Description

Characteristic as below:
Monel 400 is an extremely combination property that use for largest amount and most widely corrosion resistance alloy. This alloy in the hydrofluoric acid and fluoride gas medium with excellent corrosion resistance, as well as to the hot concentrated alkali. At the same time, is also corrosion resistant to neutral solution, sea water, air, organic compounds. An important feature of this is generally do not generate a stress corrosion cracking, good cutting performance.

Monel 400 Metallurgical structure
Monel 400 alloy is high-intensity single-phase solid solution.

Monel 400 Corrosion resistance
Monel 400 alloy in the fluoride gas, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrofluoric acid and their derivatives have a very good corrosion resistance property, and possess better corrosion resistance more than the copper alloy in the sea water. Acid medium: Monel 400 have corrosion resistance in less than 85% consistency of sulfuric acid. Monel 400 is an important material that resistant to hydrofluoric acid. Water corrosion: Monel 400 alloy in most corrosion cases of water, not only excellent corrosion resistance, but also less pitting, stress corrosion, the corrosion rate less than 0.025mm / a. High temperature corrosion: Monel 400 for the work of the highest temperature at about 600 º C in general in the air, in the high temperature steam, the corrosion rate less than 0.026mm / a. Ammonia: Monel 400 can be resistant to an hydrous ammonia and aminate conditions corrosion below 585 º C due to the high nickel.

Monel 400 Application field:
Monel 400 alloy is a multi-purpose material in many industrial applications:
1. Seamless water pipe in the power factory
2. Sea-water exchanger and evaporator
3. Sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid environment
4. Crude distillation
5. Sea-water in the use of equipment and propeller shaft
6. Nuclear industry and used in the manufacture of uranium enrichment isotope separation equipment
7. Manufacturing hydrochloric acid equipment used in the production of pump and valve
Specification: Plate, sheet, strip, rod, bar, wire, tube.  

Do you provide free samples?
Yes, we can provide a free sample for testing, If we have sample in stock, The quantity based on the material type, The buyer should bear all the shipping costs.

Please feel free to contact us and we are looking forward to cooperating with you




Alloy%NiCuFeCMnSiS
Monel400Min.6328




Max.
342.50.320.50.024



Monel 400 Physical properties

Density8.83 g/cm³
Melting point1300-1390 ºC


Monel 400 Alloy minimum mechanical properties in the room temperature

Alloy stateTensile strength
Rm N/mm²
Yield strength
R P0. 2 N/mm²
Elongation
A 5 %
Monel40048017035


Q: I am experiencing a problem with electrical wiring. I was trying to change a lightswitch to a duplex lightswitch/outlet. I could only get the outlet to work, not the lightswitch part. So I deceided to switch back to my original lightswitch (that originally worked just fine) because I would have to wait for someone who knows more to help me with the duplex. Now the lightswitch doesn't work either. What could have happend to cause this and how do I fix this?
Did i get you right , that what you needed is a light switch and an extra outlet? the power line for a light switch, one passing thru the switch then connected to the light, while the other, live one is connected directly to your light or receptacles, when you switch the light the line that pass thru you switch is powered giving you a positive and negative power. to light your lamp. Now when you installed an additional outlet, you must connect the two negative and positive wire to your outlet. See to it that the line connected to your receptacles is not altered but connected to one terminal of your outlet say as the positive line,while the other line the negative line, connected to your outlet should extend thru your switch then from switch this line shall be connected to your receptacle to complete the connection. I presumed that you know how to connect the wire to your switch. This is only a single live wire, cut off into two, one connected to he upper terminal of your switch and the one one connected to lower terminal then this line is connected to the terminal of your receptacle to complete the cycle. Check that even if your light is off, your outlet must be energised if it is not, then review your connection The failure of your light switch might be due to loose connection or parts of it isn't working anymore that you need to change it to new one.
Q: The power of the line from the power of some then the current through the wire voltage will come down? Will this be more costly? Question added: is the wire and the voltage is not more than the cable
There will not be anything, but there are hidden dangers! What is the wire? If the cable is nothing, the jacket line is also better, such as just ordinary BV line security risks on the big! Wire insulation of the appearance of a long time will be aging, cover their poor heat in the cement, will accelerate the aging, and ultimately may break the leakage.
Q: I need to melt fishing line with the resistance in an electrical wire powered by a 9 volt battery. how do i go about this safely??
If aluminum wiring is put in wisely and maintained wisely there's no subject. there is probable a unfastened connection at your outlet that the microwave is plugged into. maximum probable somebody replaced that outlet with a CU merely outlet and it would be CU/AL (copper/aluminum) it rather is greater costly. we've aluminum wiring in our domicile and have in no way had a topic. i take advantage of the right merchants and make useful they are stable and tight while changing an outlet, which you will possibly desire to do with copper wiring additionally. So, I propose you examine that outlet and alter it out if needed. shrink off the small area of undesirable twine before changing the opening.
Q: How about the decoration wiring charges, about how much?
I do not know your computer has no 1394 interface, some words can be used to video into the computer, and then see you upload to that site, you can go to the site you want to upload to download the client
Q: An incoming cable (line) is connected to a standard receptacle with the hot (black) wire attached to the upper screw (brass) and the white (common) wire attached to the lower screw (silver). The outgoing cable (load) is attached to the other two screws in the same manner. In my limited residential experience, the line cable will be attached to opposing screw contacts (upper 2 screws) with the second cable (load) attached to the bottom two contact screws on a standard electrical receptacle. In what conditions would these cable contacts be split like this? I have a short along this circuit somewhere and I am wondering if this is the problem?
That is wired properly. All your black goes to brass and all white goes to silver. Brass will always be on one side and silver will always be on the other. This was obviously wired this way before there were problems. It's fine. **REVISED** I would ask the guy who said the whites need to be pig tailed to give a code reference. There isn't one. Funny that the plugs manufacturer would even supply a second screw. LOL.
Q: I tried to replace an old outlet with a new one today and I accidently put the white wire into the slot for the black wire and vice versa. I used one of those quickwire outlets. When I turned the power back on, smoke started coming out of the outlet and now all the outlets in my room and in the nest room don't work. What exactly happened and what do I do now?
You swapped the hot neutral wires coming from your circuit breaker to the outlet you worked on, and other outlets in your room. Not to worry too much - it's repairable. 1. make sure the circuit breaker popped open (or the fuse blew open.) leave alone until step 9. 2. use a voltmeter at your outlet and make sure there is no power carried to the outlet. You should set the meter to AC (alternating currrent) and in the US, the scale you select should be greater than 220 Volts (less than 220 V could fry the meter.) If you have an auto-ranging DVM (digital voltmeter) it will set itself. Plug the black wire into Ground and Red wire into VAC on the meter. To measure the voltage, plug the black wire into one of the wide slots and the red wire into the other wide slot -- you should not measure any voltage. 3. pull out the outlet from the wall and remove all 3 wires, including the ground. I would throw away the outlet and get a new one. 4. check the wires and cut-off any burned insulation, and strip insulation off about 3/8 of an inch. Form each wire into a small question mark shape - a clockwise-facing open loop. 5. attach the bare copper wire (ground) to the green grounding screw, located at the bottom by itself. 6. attach the white wire to the silver screw 7. attach the black wire to the brass screw 8. Reinstall the outlet into the box and coverplate. 9. Reset the circuit breaker (or replace the burned fuse with exact same value.) 10. Use your voltmeter to check power at the outlet. You should measure 110 V across the two blade openings in the outlet. You are good to go.
Q: (Home and a car.) Suggest reasons why different wires are used in different situations.
The previous answer is very correct and covers a variety of applications. What is missing is the selection of a size (or gauge) of wire based on the application. The size of the conductor (wiring) must be adequate to support the electrical load. If you are going to attach an appliance to a power source, the wire must be sized based on the amount of current the appliance will draw. Look at your power cords around the house, some are much heavier, particularly on the refrigerator, laundry, air conditioner, and etc. Same with your car. The battery has to support all the electrical loads so the cables are extra heavy compared with anything else in the car.
Q: What are the test requirements for the power cord?
(U.L1) is yellow, B phase (V.L2) is green, C phase (W.L3) zero line (N) blue, ground wire (PE) according to international practice. ) For the two-color line.
Q: Coming from my electrical box I have a white wire and a dark grey wire and coming from my water heater I have a red wire and a black wire. What colors go with what? Thank you in advance!
this is typical i have installed a lot of water heaters. under normal circumstances it does not matter what color goes to what wire on 220 the only wire that matters is your ground. make sure the bare wire goes to the green ground lug on top of your water heater. the 2 colored wires from the breaker panel can connect to either of the colored wires from your water heater.
Q: How to use the capacitor to test whether the wire is broken
The difference between the different plugs is: 1 pin position 2 power supply If this is not 100% clear, do not just change, etc. Order to

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