• Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 1
  • Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 2
  • Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 3
  • Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 4
Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

Small Size Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

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Specifications

1.ceramic wall tile, bathroom tile, bathroom wall tile
2.Bath tile
3.kitchen tile
4.CE & ISO9001
5.Grade AA

3D ceramic wall tile

Product Description

Detail product description:

Model no:

CMAX 1005

Tile type:

3D ceramic wall tile

Material:

ceramic tile

Size(MM) :

300*300mm,300*450mm,300*600mm,330*330mm,240*660mm,400*800mm

Thickness(MM):

7.5-8.5mm

Absorption:

waterproof ceramic tile

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used for wall and floor, widely used in kitchen, bathroom, living room, and so on.

Surface:

polished / matt finshed

Certificate:

CE & ISO9001, Soncap, Test

Function:

Acid-resistant, antibacterial, non-slip, wear-resistant

Packaging:

standard cartons and wooden pallets packing

Delivery time:

Within 20 days after received the payment

Payment terms:

L/C,T/T,D/P,D/A

MOQ:

500 square meters

Supply ability:

10000 square meters per day

Usage area:

Interior & exterior floors & walls, inside and outside, bedrooms, hotels, schools, supermarkets and lobbies

Remark:

For more information of our products please kindly visit our website or contact us by email.bettyben@okorder.com

Packaging & Shipping                          

SIZE MM

PCS/CTN

KG/CTN

SQM/CTN

CTN/PALLET

240X600

8

23

1.44

48

330X330

15

24

1.6335

72

300x600

8

26

1.44

60

300x300

15

23

1.35

72

300x450

12

27

1.62

60

Q: rented an apartment about 1 year ago.My landlord put a brand new bathroom in including ceramic floor tiles,I just noticed cracks in 6 or 7 of the tiles but I do not remember doing any damage that would cause this.The only thing I did was flood the bathroom but mopped it up right away and the floor is waterproof anyway.The landlord said those tiles where very expensive and said they should last at least 10 years before they crack,and now she is taking the cost of the tiles including installation cost out of my security deposit.
The tile was probably laid on a floor that flexes, breaking the tiles. This is not your fault, it's the fault of the person that put in that tile. They should have stiffened the floor better before installing the tile.
Q: Last year I had my bathroom remodeled. I had a new tub and tile installed. I asked the tile man to put the tiles together and not to have grout lines. He insisted that they HAD to have grout. I told him to put in the smallest, narrowest grout line as possible. Well now the tile grout is looking yucky. I know how to clean it so that is not the question. I just want to know why do you have to have grout in the first place? If the tiles are pushed up against each other with the sides touching and then put in grout in the very small area. why would a professional tile man insist that it MUST have grout?
How the heck do you plan on keeping your tile from shifting? Use some common sense. Something has to hold them in place, and if you didn't have grout, they'd be all over the place and they'd break and crack and chip and dirt would be all up in them and they would be even more difficult to clean. When you want tile, the grout comes w/ the pkg. If you didn't want that, get vinyl or something similar. Sorry, don't want to sound negative, but you have to see things from thier point of view before you start to argue w/ the man. Please research a little bit. Mandy Architectural Building Tech.
Q: I have water damage on a ceiling tile in my basement. The water damage is on a tile on the perimiter of the room. The water damage is adjacent to the room wall. However when I pulled the tile up I was surprised that I didn‘t find the source to any water above it. There was also no water damage on the tile where the angle bracket held the tile up. The water damage on the tile started in a straight line from the edge of the angle iron. Also there appeared to be a larger brown stain on the finished underside of the tile with a much smaller slightly damp appearance on the unfinished top of the tile. I‘m wondering if this means that my water source is not above the tile but in fact moisture from the room. However all of my other tiles around this one are dry with no damage. Thanks in advance.
Check the other tiles on the perimeter for moisture along the same piece of angle.I would then look to see if any pipes run above the cieling at any point.Water will travel to a low spot then pool so the ceiling might not be entirely level,if thats the case then the water could be coming from the outside wall along the channel that holds the tile in place until it begins to rise again.There are an number of potential causes here check everything you can think of.
Q: for making cement decorative hand made cement tile there is device sometime call cookie cutter also to portrait some design is called divider
The metal frame that divides the tile into different sections is made from strips of metal carefully bent and soldered into place. I have seen steel ones and also brass mold patterns. The key to it is to have the bottom of the strips perfectly flat and level so that when you pour in the liquid cement mix, each color stays in its own compartment. See the link below to see a mold pattern and also the finished tile from it. A lot of history and more photos are on the second link.
Q: I just bought a new houses that we will build. The decorator went through the selection of tile and want to charge us $9000 for 1500 sf surface and $6800 for a group 3 granite counter top with island. It feels a little pricy. Anybody have experience with new builder and want to expect for flooring and granite counter top?
I think the builder usually order the quality granite (made in Italian? or special pattern). If you get the contractor outside, it is much cheaper 'cause they suggest you to use China Granite. It was also beautiful much cheaper. if you don't mind about the hassel, don't upgrade through builder. You can upgrade after that also save $$ on property tax.
Q: i am getting my kitchen done over in 2 weeks cost is not a factor i cant decide to do tiles or harwood flooring which is better for the kitchen. i have two kids 2 and 5
Well First Off I'm Assuming The Kitchens Downstairs And You Sitting On A Concrete Sub Floor. If So You'll Need To Buy Engineered Wood (Wood Sitting Upon Cross Layered Plywood For Stability) Rather Than A Solid So It Can Be Glued Down And Actually Stay Down. Also You Would Need A Moisture Barrier Which Keeps Water Down Away From Your Wood Floor; Some People Don't Know That When It Rains The Water Soaks Into The Yard And Rises Under Your House Right Through The Concrete Sub Floor Which Can Be Deadly For Wood Flooring IE Warping And Sinking. Resistance Wise You Need To Look At The Janka Scale Which Is A Wood Hardness Scale Higher The Number The Harder IE Better. The More Polyurethane Aluminum Oxide Mix (All Finished Wood Has It) They Glaze Over Wood Will Make It That Much More Durable To Dents And Dings Not Scratches All You Need Is A Rock On Your Shoe To Scratch Wood;(Wood Is Harder To Replace Dented Pieces) So That Should Make You Think Of Color Medium Tone Woods Don't Show Scratches As Much As Dark And Light Woods Do. Also Wood Has Corers Mitered, Angled They Can Collect Dust In Them So I Recommend Buying Square Cut So They Are Flush Together So No Room For Dust. ----------- Porcelain Tile Is Cooked At A Higher Temp Cooking Out More Air In The Tile Making It A All Around More Durable And Practical Product Easier To Clean And Maintain You Can Seal The Grout To Keep It Clean And Buy A Hover Floor Mate I Love Mine It Vacuums And Scrubs It Clean With Any Kind Of Liquid Floor Cleaners And Dries It Also. They Also Have A Rating System Called PEI It Is Rated From 1-5 And Is Rated On Usability Where It Can Be Used 1 Is Wall Tile And 5 Is Commercial Use. You Will Have More Color Choices When It Comes To Tile To Match Cabinets And So On. Tile IS Also Easier To Replace If Broken They Chip It Out And Slide In A New One. ----- So After All That I Like Both Which Works For You.
Q: New handyman project involves putting ceramic tile on bathroom walls. Never tried this before. Any tips or suggestions? What about a web site with do it yourself directions?
I agree with fearjar. You could tile over tile, but its best to do it right and go back to a solid, clean base that is free of mold and other defects. This gives you a chance to inspect the plumbing (which according to Murphy's law will burst if you don't check it) and will make for a more even installation.
Q: I just replaced the riser rail in our electric shower, but the fittings were slightly different, so now I have 2 bare holes in the tiles. Should I be concerned about moisture getting into the wall, and if so what‘s the best way to fill these holes? Would polyfilla be enough?
PolyFilla would probably be ok, but i would use the grout which you used for the tiling originally. Don't forget to seal it, or it will discolour.
Q: I don‘t have a ton of money for my kitchen but I feel I can do some minor things. I) Orange countertop MUST go. I am seriously considering due the lack of counter space in the kitchen, what you see is my only countertop space, is move the fridge to the wall on the right, which you cant realy see in this pic, but there is an inside interior wall im going to set the fridge against, and then extend the countertop the wall, and put a base cabinet below it, and one above it to be the same size vertically as the one next to the fridge. A neutral beige-ish countertop, and then probably a range top thing for above the stove. Replace old sink faucet too.My question about making a tile backsplash for above the sink, would ie be more logical to measure it out, and put the tiles on a piece of plywood and screw that 2 the wall instead of grouting the wall and tiles affixed to the wall directly.
You must apply the tiles directly to the wall. Putting them on plywood would be terrible. Take the extra time and do it right.
Q: I am remodeling my bathroom and will be putting tile up around the tub area. There are three areas (each end of tub and middle part).Here are the dimensions in inches:each end is 30 wide and 81 tall (so 2 of these areas)middle is 58 wide and 81 tallSo how many square feet of tile will I need or is in inches? Thanks in advance!!
Some tiles are designed to be used in a particular pattern, not just a straight run. For example, 4 tiles might interlock to make a square on the wall. I suggest you write down the measurements as you have, draw a small diagram of it all, and THEN go to a tile place. There is a tremendous amount of variation, not to mention the use of partial tiles at the edges, etc. It's rather complicated. On the plus side, you usually have to buy tiles by the box, so that means you would be rounding up your numbers, anyway. Better to have too many than to run out!

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