• Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification System 1
  • Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification System 2
  • Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification System 3
  • Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification System 4
Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification

Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
200000 m/month

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1.Cable Introduction:

Standard: BS6004 / IEC227

1)Standard

GB 5023.11997 , JB 8734.15-1998, Q/ZEL 02-2002, GB 5023.17-1997,  IEC60227

 2) Rated Voltages:

 300/500V    450/750V   (600/1000V also available)

 3) Application

The products is suitable for use in power installations, fixed wiring or flexibleconnections for electrical

 appliance like lighting,  electronic equipment,  instrument and communication equipment  with rated 

voltage 450/750V or less!

2. Specificatio

Nominal
sectional area mm2

Conductor
No/Dia.mm

NominalInsulated thick mm

Max overall Dia.mm

Condcutor Resistance at20

Min insulated
resistance at
70MΩ/km

1.5

1/1.38

0.7

3.3

12.1

-

0.011

1.5

7/0.52

0.7

3.5

12.1

-

0.010

2.5

1/1.78

0.8

3.9

7.41

11.8

0.010

4

1/2.25

0.8

4.4

4.61

7.39

0.0085

6

1/2.76

0.8

4.9

3.08

4.91

0.0070

10

7/1.35

1.0

7.0

1.83

3.08

0.0065

16

7/1.70

1.0

8.0

1.15

1.91

0.0050

25

7/2.14

1.2

10.0

0.727

1.20

0.0050

35

7/2.52

1.2

11.5

0.524

0.868

0.0040

50

19/1.78

1.4

13.0

0.387

0.641

0.0045

70

19/2.14

1.4

15.0

0.268

0.443

0.0035

95

19/2.52

1.6

17.5

0.193

0.320

0.0035

 

3. Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:

1) Packing Lengths: 100m/roll, 200m/roll, 305m/roll. Other lengths available according to client's Request; 2) Inner packing: Wooden reel, plastic reel. 3) Outer packing: Carton box, pull box, pallet. 4) Other packing available according to client's Request.

Delivery

15days or as per your request

4. Pictures:

Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification

Pure Copper BV Electric in Various of Specification

 

Q:1966 Mustang ignition wire seems to be getting too hot and melts any electrical tape on it.
You really should identify what you mean by ignition wire. However ordinary PVC electrical tape used (say) on spark plug leads, especially near the plugs or distributor ends, will probably come off, just through the heat around the engine, if nothing else. The heat mainly softens the adhesive on the tape, and it unwinds. If you are talking about the wire from the ignition switch to the coil, it is a resistance (ballast) wire, and normally gets warm. However the same comment re the tape applies if the tape is near the ignition coil end.
Q:How the square of the cable and the current conversion
Power cable, also known as power cable, refers to the transmission of electrical energy cable, the control cable is the transmission of various control signals cable
Q:I noticed when somebody uses the microwave my tv starts to make REALLY loud zap noises and a staticy bar rolls down the screen. The tv does it on its own sometimes and I thought I saw the hallway lights flicker a bit when it happened.If I flip on the bedroom light the tv does the same thing again or if I unplug something from an outlet on the other side of the room. I don't know why EXACTLY, I only know its wiring if you can explain further please do. Also, if an electrical fire happens what should I do? Obviously no water because duh but do I cover it in baking soda? I saw that a lot on different websites. I do not own the correct fire extinguisher so what else would I use? Thanks for any answers!
Sounds like a high-resistance connection (loose wire) somewhere, causing microscopic arcing, generating TV interference. For electrical fire, turn off the power. That removes the heat and the risk of electrocution. Then use whatever fire extinguisher you have for the materials that are on fire (water, baking soda, sand, smother with blanket, etc). Call fire department if you smell smoke or your smoke alarm is going off. They may have a thermal imaging camera that can see the heat caused by your electrical problem, if that's what it is.
Q:I have an antique home and I am trying to install a new ceilimg fan. The box only has a black and a white wire from the ceiling. I know where to connect the ceiling fan colored wires to - but to which do I put the ground to ?? Do I attach it to the black wire or the white wire??
If there is not a corosponding ground wiring from the box, do not connect the ground from the fan to either wire. However, there might be a ground screw in the box that you could connect the fan ground to.
Q:I have a chandelier that has been rewired, and one that has not been rewired. Both have DC electrical wires have ridges down one side and not the other. Now I would think that whether or not a chandelier is originally wired or rewired, if the type of electrical wire that is used is the same, the answer would be the same; a half ribbed wire is a half ribbed wire, right? I asked a question previously about which side of a half-ribbed wire was positive and which side was negative, and one of the answers I got was, The ribbed side is supposed to be the hot or neutral side. I do not trust other peoples wiring so I always test it with a meter.Ok, so now I am wondering about this phrase other people's wiring and how a person can possibly change the positive to a negative inside a premanufactured wire. Can someone explain this to me please?
I tried to answer your question, I have now learned to re read my responses. I did make an error in my response and I am sorry. The ribbed wire is the neutral (NEC2008 400.22(f)), unless someone else made an error in wiring. Home chandeliers are 110 Volt AC items so a ribbed wire means nothing, it is an AC circuit. Although, I would connect the ribbed wire to the silver connector and the black to the brass connector to keep the phase consistent. If they are DC chandeliers they will have a phase inverter or bridge rectifier built in to change the household AC power supply to a DC power supply at the correct voltage. Please, if you are uncertain consult a professional electrician. The above code reference is pointing to the National Electrical Code (NEC) used in the USA. Please feel free to search it yourself. I have gone in to homes and found aluminum wiring mixed with copper wiring, switches or outlets. This is a very dangerous combination. Unless you know what you are doing hire a professional do it. It sounds as if you have rental properties. If you add a light fixture and it causes a fire and someone is injured you may find yourself in a bad place legally, both from litigation and lack of insurance. Food for thought.
Q:and what do i do with the ground and neutral when switching from an outlet that has a spot for all four wire to one that only has three where does the ground go
Aluminum wire is dangerous and should be removed whenever possible.
Q:I want to have my house re-wired, how much is involved? How much does it typically cost?Some more info: my house was built in the 1950's. I know the fuse box was updated, but my boyfriend and I are renovating it. Some outlets don't work and that scares me a lot. I'm on a budget, so please let me know what you think it will cost, as well as whats involved.Thanks in adavance:)
If the fuse box was updated and is now ''breakers'' instead of fuses, good, but what is the service, 100 amp or 200 amp? And you say you have duplexes that don't work. To give you a good ''estimate'' on your home a electrician must LOOK at it first to see what the job will consist of, like how much and how difficult the phishing of wire will be,and the like.The size of the house and the ''codes'' in your area.If all of the existing wire in your house is 2 wire only and you want to change it to 3 wire you are looking at about $3,500 to $6,500 depending upon your location.There are a lot of ''variables'' involved so my estimate is for ''easy'' work.
Q:I recently came across a big spool of rubber/plastic insulated electrical wiring. I cut into the metal with my knife and saw that it had an orange tint to it. I was excited because I thought it was copper but after I burned it and took it to a scrap yard the guy there stuck a magnet to it and said it wasn't copper. because it stuck to the magnet. So it's been about two months now and there's orange rust on it like Iron. but I know what steel wire looks like. This has that distinct copper orange in it but it's magnetic. Help me. I'm so angry and confused.
possibly nickel/copper alloy used for heating elements (low temp) as it is insulated look up constantan wire
Q:Hi, I have installed a 200 amp service entrance. I am in the process of attaching it to the grounding rod. What size cable should I use? I was told that a size 8 wire is ok, as long as it is protected. However, I was also told that I should go with a size 4. Can I use the protected 8 or am I better off going with the 4? Are there any advantages of using one over the other? Thanks for your time,pb4sc
Hey Kate is right. Your inspector is the final say and some are picky. For 200 amp you should be using 3/0 copper and you would need #4 ground with that according to the NEC. But you didn't say what size your service conductors are. Ask your Inspector and get it right the first time.
Q:Bvvb 300 / 500V is the number of square wires Bvvb300 / 500V is the number of square wires
VV: PVC insulated PVC sheathed power copper core cable KVV: PVC insulated PVC sheathed control copper cable KVVP: PVC insulated braided sheathed PVC sheathed control copper cable

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