• Porcelain tile CMAX 6717 System 1
  • Porcelain tile CMAX 6717 System 2
  • Porcelain tile CMAX 6717 System 3
  • Porcelain tile CMAX 6717 System 4
  • Porcelain tile CMAX 6717 System 5
Porcelain tile CMAX 6717

Porcelain tile CMAX 6717

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
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Supply Capability:
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Specifications of Porcelain Tile

1.Polished porcelain tile

2.Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

3.Water absorption:<0.5%

4.Sizes: 600 x 600mm or 800 x 800mm

6.Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

7.Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

8.Transportation: by sea

9.Package: 4 pcs/Ctn for 600mm; 3 pcs/Ctn for 800mm


Applications of Porcelain Tile

1.Suitable for homes flooring tiles

2.high grade office buildings

3. high-grade hotel flooring tiles,

4.government and corporate projects flooring tiles

5.deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles


Pictures of porcelain tiles

porcelain tile

porcelain tile

Usage of porceain tile


porcelai tiles

porcelain tile


Polishing Line of porcelain tile


polishing line


Packing Line of porcelain tile


packing warehouse


Certificate of porcelain tile


porcelain tile


Advantages of porcelain tile


  • Green Product

  • Guarantee/Warranty

  • International Approvals

  • Packaging

  • Price

  • Product Features

  • Product Performance

  • Prompt Delivery

  • Quality Approvals

  • Reputation

  • Service

Main Export Markets:


  • Asia

  • Australasia

  • Central/South America

  • Eastern Europe

  • Mid East/Africa

  • North America

  • Western Europe

Here you can find good products, better price and the best service!


Looking forward to receiving your inquiry

Q: I have ten 4x4 ceramic tile that I cannot find new. What is an easy way to clean the backs off so I can re-use them?
With Acid easily available in the market. And I am it is HCL. Thats the only way to bring the original shine of ceramic tile.
Q: I know granite is one, but what other less expensive kinds of tile are durable enough for countertops? Just bought the house so money is tight and granite,or even granite tile, is out of the question.
i'm a actual belongings agent and accept as true with you. Tile w/grout isn't the 1st determination. In an time-honored domicile, new laminate works and looks great. the hot granite looking laminates are alluring, useful, long-lasting and prevalent. If on the different hand, this may be a much better end domicile or you basically choose to spend alot of money, granite may be the alternative. you ought to use matching or coordinating tile for a backsplash to tie all of it mutually.
Q: I am wanting to put ceramic tile at the top of my shower, where the drywall meets the shower. I have no clue where to start. What will I need? How long should this take?
iam not sure if tile glue will adhere to paint so you may have to strip the paint of the villa board wall (bathrooms are made with a cement based wall sheet called ,villa board/Fibre cement sheet/Fibro. Rest of the house is Drywall). you need - bucket a tile glue mixer ( an atachment that fits onto your drill) make sure to buy a glue that is designed for FC sheeting. a glue spreader ( it has square notches in it) plastic cross spacers and wedge spacers. a tile cutter OR an angle grinder with a mayssonry disk sillicon (ask for bathroom type) a silicon gun grout, Sponge, Grout spreader ( or a peice of rubber size of your hand will do the same) work out how your tiles will look by running some sqaure and straight lines so you can work off, once you get a straight row of tiles the rest will follow that line and you should line up nicely with the walls if you worked it out correctly. mix your glue to a custard type consistancy and smear up the wall with the notches spreading your glue. place first tile by coming at the wall at a 90 dgr angle to the wall then lightly lift and press the tile onto the wall, put in your cross spacers and repeat for the next tile. Make sure not to leave any glue on tiles or souroundings as it is VERY hard to get off.!! And make sure to clean out the gaps between the tiles so grout can get in. once tiles are all in place allow 24hours dry time then you are ready for the grout (gap infil) when you buy the grout ask for a water proof one, all you do is mix it up till its a melted choclate consistancy and just press into the gaps at the same time wiping it up with a moist sponge untill it looks even and just a little bit below the tile surface. last step is to Sillicon up the edges with the wall meets the tiles with the same color as your grout
Q: What is good for tiles?
Now the market is full of a lot of ceramic tile brand, a national well-known brands, there are some small brands for the local market, of course, in the conditions and budget allowed to recommend or choose some well-known brands, so the quality of the product more To ensure that at the same time after-sales service and construction guidance and so will be more sound, the following can give you some of the market on the front of the brand sales De Gao, Leibang Si, Xi card, porcelain Lai paste, the proposal is for reference only, specific Or you need to decide.
Q: Does anyone know if I can lay ciramic tile over the dull worn out linoleum floor in my kitchen? I don‘t want to peel up the linolium because of the insane amount of labor it will take, and make the sub floor un even. any suggestions? Will tiles still stick to this material?Thanks!
The problem with laying tile down is that if the floor is uneven at all (i.e., not perfectly flat) your nice new expensive ceramic tiles will BREAK! Best to find a place where you can look under the linoleum and see what's under it...but, all that said, that's why the PRO will go all the way down to the sub-floor, get everything nice and level, then put down 1/2 cementitious backer-board (1/4 for walls, 1/2 for floors) and then lay the tile. That way, it can be worked out in advance whether/if there will be a height difference between the new tile floor and any floors in rooms adjoining it...otherwise, it's oops, I tripped again. Spend the time, effort and money and do it right.
Q: i have ceramic tile on my countertop and i do not like it and i was wondering if i could put a countertop on top of the tile? i just want to know what my inexpensive route will be. i do not have a lot of money to have things done. just want to know what my options would be.
yes. There is going to be some prep work needed first, and what that will be wil depend on what kind of countertop you are going to be using. You might want to add that information to your question. In most cases a sheet of plywood cut to size, and installed over the existing ceramic will do nicely
Q: how to install the tin molding around the edge of the tiles
Usually this is tacked into place with a few small nails. In the past i have experimented with using a contact adhesive to install the tin tiles and the molding strip, but this can be a bad option depending on the embossed pattern in your tiles or molding strip. The best and most secure option is to line the ceilding with ply (9mm thick or more - screwed into your ceiling joists so is secure) then to nail (small tacks) the tiles and the strips into place. You can also position the tiles and strips with contact adhesive to get them all in the right spot then go through and nail off when you are happy with the positioning.
Q: How the gold fritters tiles
on the quality of tiles, but also concerned about the sale of goods, such as delivery To teach you some simple identification of brick quality is good or bad way: 1. to see the origin (the general quality of Guangdong brick better); 2 to see flatness; 3 to see if there are pores, particles; The earth tiles 30 to 40 pounds, the heavier the weight of the brick the greater the degree of porcelain, the higher the quality of the higher the quality of the theory is better); 5. listen to sound; 6 to see the water absorption (all ceramic tiles should not absorb the back of the water); Test slip resistance (in the case of water)
Q: I like the original quarry tiled floor from our 60‘s kitchen, but they are quite badly stained. I can‘t pretend they have any historic value, or even were particularly well laid, so on balance should I1) Replace with new tiles, perhaps up to a higher standard2) Get a specialist to restore them to something approaching their original stateWhich will cost more, and what would you do?
Quarry tiles are made from unrefined extruded, high silica alumina clay that gets pressed into the desired form and hard burnt. They are hard and durable but have a softer composition than ceramic tiles. It is an unglazed form of tile, which comes in a natural colour selection, red, brown and beiges. A good and cheap place to start is to try using raw linseed oil. This will usually remove most of your tough stains. You want to be careful about using acids on real quarry tile because they are very porous and acids could etch your tiles permanently. If the linseed oil doesn't do the trick then a more expensive alternative would be using Lithofin Victorian Tiled Floor Restorer and a good sealer is HG Golvpolish. You should be able to get these from good tile retailers. If the tiles are laid on earth, or on a lime bed on earth, they should not be sealed as they need to breath to avoid damp being trapped. The original tile finish was a clear oil and of course this still allows the tile to breath. Try Slate Dressing from a fireplace shop, this is colourless and will give a richness to the tiles.. Hope this helps.
Q: I just grouted the ceramic tiles I laid in my kitchen. The grout was supposed to be a dark maroon color, but it turned out a whitish powdery color (efflorescence). What is the main cause of this...it can't be water coming from underneath the tiles because the basement is underneath the kitchen floor...unless it came from the mortar under the kitchen tiles. How do I get rid of the efflorescence. Grout cleaner didn't work...should I use salfamic (spelling?) acid and scrub the grout lines? Can J just refloat new grout over the existing grout? HELP...I need to put my base cabinets in, but I can't stand looking at my floor the way it is.
You have a larger problem than you think, that is if your basement floor is of solid construction. If so you have damp in the floor, and sorry to be the barer of bad news but it wont go away. You need a d.p.m. in sub floor prior to tiles is the only way. Jeff

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