Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6669 System 1

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6669 System 2

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6669

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Product Description:

Key SpecificationsPolished Porcelain Tile SB6669:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Main Export Markets:

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Q: We‘re putting in new porcelain tile floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Should the tile go under the refrigerator? Should tiles go in before or after the new vanities in the bathroom? Any other general tips for a first-time tiler?: You need to tile under the refrigerator because if dont the fridge will be uneven or see the edge and be hard to pull out. vanity should be taken out because it makes it alot easier and gives you the choice to replace the vanity in the future with out worrying about it not covering the tile. But you dont have too

Q: I am looking to tile my livingroom/kitchen area appx 500sf. I am going with porcelain due to the strength ( i was told its better). My question is for resal (4-5 years) what is a better tile to lay; polished tile or regular glaze. I like the shiny clear coat look the polished has but someone mentioned it picks up footprints and it is not good for resale.Also, I was thinking that If I went with a larger tile, 18X18 or larger that it would look much cleaner with less grout lines, but since its only an area of 500sf that it would make my place look smaller than it is?any suggestions are helpful. Thanks: Porcelain can absolutely be a polished surface. Mechanically polished porcelain does need a sealer applied before a contrasting color of grout is used. The surface is a polished unglazed and needs to be sealed. Shiny glazed tile, whether ceramic or porcelain is an enamel glaze in a shiny finish. Totally different than polished, through body porcelain. Don t believe everything you hear.

Q: Is $4 a square foot a good price for labor? How about $1.49 for each 20x20 porcelein tile? Those are my quotes and want to see if I should do it. In Texas and they told me it will include taking out old carpet and laying down tile plus grout.: It sounds reasonable enough. ASk about sealing the tile, as well! Up here, in Canada, I usually recommend a waterproof membrane be laid before the tile. This prevents water and moisture from seeping through the tile and froming mold and mildew on the subfloor. Even the best sealed tile may have a tendancy to allow moisture to wick through and attack the subfloor. BUT...that's just me! I like to do the best job possible!! You may even want to consider underfloor electric heat. Now is the perfect time to do this. At any rate, to just rip out the carpet, prep the subfloor, and tile with Porcelain tile, I think you have a pretty fair price, there.

Q: My husband and I are going to try tiling the kitchen floor ourselves. Can someone please give me step by step instructions on how it should be done and also waht materials we will need. Also any pointers or tips are really apperciated. FYI: We will be using 18 inch porcilin tile.: the 1st factor is i'd desire to understand is this laminate glue or snap at the same time (do you desire to maintain this floor ?) in case you donot care that's a thank you to eliminate your laminate first of all determine which way the laminate is started out this provides you with a solid beginning factor. this would desire to easily fold up ward ____/ like that once you start up up you will desire to have the capacity to soak up thold laminate in one million hour. determine you eliminate all your wall base first., that's what holds down the laminate. After it is up you will would desire to confirm what style of underlayment is on the subfloor. the main person-friendly is durock in case you're putting down ceramic . despite if that's vinyl tiles then you would desire to apply luan (one million/4 thick use the comparable thickness for the durock). you will desire to degree you length and width of the floor magnificent chalk lines to confirm the place your beginning factor is ( you do this with the two style of floor).in case you like extra preparation e mailme.

Q: Hey there. We are in the process of adding a half bath to our home. We purchased tiles months ago at a tent sale at out local tile store. We have some wall corners that might require bullnosed corner tiles but this wasnt taken into account when we purchased the tiles and now we cannot find matching bullnose tiles anywhere.......Is there any was to finish the wall edges without using bullnosed tiles and have it still look good???: Bnose tile is a new simplified way of doing tile and was to remove one of the grout edges. So all you have to do is grout the top like they did in the old days a few years ago. You could also use a thin lat of flat trim, a brass or stainless steel edging, or caulking that matches the wall or tile. I think the simple grout is your best bet. PS. Where corners meet If the tile is same color through they can show. If it is glazed colored or just a thin color on top then no. In that case cut the tile back so that they do not quite reach the corner. Then there will be a slight inverted corner where you will grout or caulk. In neither case would you want to miter the corner. It will be too sharp and thin corners would be weak enough to chip.

Q: I am tiling a bathroom, and have found a deal on 4 tiles. However, I am no expert when it comes to calculating, and am having difficulty determining how many tiles I should buy. I don‘t want to buy much too many, or even much worse, not buy enough.I am planning to do 3 different areas in the bathroom. I have included the measurements, in inches, of each area. Can you help me out?: you would be able to desire to borrow a tile cutter so which you would be able to shrink tiles to greater healthful into the corners, and an prolonged spirit point (the longer the greater constructive). you in addition to would choose a on the instant wood batten and a few nails. If the area of the tub isn't point, you could restoration the batten to the wall with the nails, and lay your first row of tiles alongside the batten. Then while they're dry and caught good, eliminate the batten and the nails, and glue all your different tiles up against the row you have in simple terms fixed. Then purchase your tiles, some glue, some grout and a few plastic spacers. you in addition to would choose a plastic thingy to coach the glue with (you commonly get one loose once you purchase the glue) Then plan very carefully precisely the place the tiles will bypass, earlier you particularly initiate artwork. you will desire to centre the tiles on the centre of the tub, in different words, the centre of the midsection tile (or, if favourite, the connect between the two midsection tiles) will bypass on the midsection of the tub. restoration your midsection tile(s) first, then pass outwards from there. in case you have a window, you additionally should centre your tiles on the centre of the window.

Q: Please help! and give as much information you can about the invention of tiles!: The earliest finds of roof tiles are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatchet roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[1] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[2] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighting around 30 kg apiece.[3] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatchet, their introduction has been explained with their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[4]

Q: Ok so my 17 year old SIL decided to clean the grout in our entry way using STRAIGHT bleach last night. I came home to find the ceramic tile COVERED in bleach!! Now, after mopping several times I still haven‘t been able to get all the bleach up AND our tiles are stripped!!! Any tips on getting the bleach up and then resealing? Total novice here and desperate for any kind of help!! Thanks!!: You must have very porous tile like unsealed porcelain or terra cotta. What you need to do is rinse it very well to make sure no bleach is left then seal the tiles. Home Depot has tile sealer (not grout sealer - but you should get that too and use it AFTER you seal the tile). First get a terra cotta sealer and apply that. When it repels water that's sprinkled on it you can proceed to seal the grout. Get some penetrating grout sealer (Tile Lab makes a good one that HD carries) and apply that. It's easy. You just wipe it on let it sit a few minutes then wipe off any that hasn't soaked in. Apply 2 or 3 times until it repels water and you're good to go.

Q: How hard is this? Is this someone with 0 experience do? I wanna remove my girlfriends jacked up rug and install tile since she has two puppies. What do you guys recommend?: Yes you can do it yourself. But you'll need a lot of guidance. Probably too much to give you here. Is it on concrete? If so, you'll have less problems. If it's on wood, you'll have to tear up the first layer of the subfloor and lay down backerboard (hardibacker). There are two types. Use the 1/4 inch. The 1/2 inch is for walls. You'll need thin set, tile cutters, maybe tile nippers. Grout and a float. Then you'll probably have to replace the base boards. Are the base boards real wood or pressed wood? Pressed wood doesn't hold up very well in moist areas. I suggest real wood. Then don't forget to paint them with a mold resistant paint. Oh yes, don't forget to remove the toilet. You will want the partial tiles to end in a corner of the room that is the least obvious. You will have to do a dry lay to determine how to lay down the full tiles in the best way. (Dry lay is explained in the how to do it books.) I suggest you get a book on how to lay tiles. Also go down to Lowe's or Home Depot and go to their classes. Since each instructor lays tile differently, go to several of their classes and ask a lot of questions. There are many different tiles. Some are natural stone (marbel, travertine, granite). Some are man-made (ceramic). Some are cheap, some are expensive. But more importantly some are very smooth and slippery while others offer a little more traction. (With that said I layed down marble-very slippery in my bathrooms and kitchen simply because it looked so good!) Do your research before you begin your project. Think it out and ask a lot of questions to people that have done this. Laying the tile is easy. But it does take some basic knowledge. Good luck!!

Q: We are using some leftover floor tile (6x6 size) and some new decorative tile (2x2 and 1x1) to tile our backsplash. Can we use the same mortar that we used on the floor? Also, we used a 1/4 inch notched trowel when doing the floor -- should we use a smaller notch for the backsplash (say, a 1/8 inch notched trowel)? Finally, the floor tile and the 1x1 tiles are porcelain. The 2x2 tile is tumbled travertine with quite a few pits on the surface. We don‘t know if we should fill those pits with grout or not. On one hand -- it will make the tiles easier to clean if they are filled (yes?). On the other, we like the look of the pits and don‘t know if we want the grout (which is a slightly darker color) filling the pits. Any suggestions?: If you are not tiling a lot later don't buy another trowel. The porcelain thin set should be fine for back-splash, because it is stronger than the regular one. The pits are the beautiful parts of the tile, don't fill grout on it, otherwise it looks like you pick them from trash. You should use tile sealer to seal the surface of the tile, not the bottom, it would easy to clean out the thin set or grout and avoid it absorb water.

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