TX-0010 pure copper bar

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	standard export seaworthy package ,suit for all kinds of transport,or as required
Delivery Detail:	7-15 days after receiving deposit

Specifications

pure copper bar
1.material:T1 T2 c2600
2.OD:3-800mm
3.length:as requirement
4.quality first,service

Product Description

Item	Copper bar ,copper rod ,Brass bar,brass rod
Material	C10100,C10200,C10300,C10400,C10500,C10700,C10800,C10910,C10920, C10930,C11000,C11300,C11400,C11500,C11600,C12000,C12200,C12300, C12500,C14200,C14420,C14500,C14510,C14520,C14530,C17200,C19200, C21000,C23000,C26000,C27000,C27400,C28000,C33000,C33200,C37000, C44300,C44400,C44500,C60800,C63020,C65500,C68700,C70400,C70620, C71000,C71500,C71520,C71640,C72200,etc
Standard	ASTMB152,B187,B133,B301,B196,B441,B465,JISH3250-2006, GB/T4423-2007,etc
Diameter	3mm~800mm
Length	5.8m,6m,or as required
Export to	Singapore,India,Iran,Indonesia,Ukraine,Spain,Korea,Thailand,Canada,USA, Ireland,Saudi Arabia,Viet Nam,England,Egypt,Oman,etc
Package	Standard export seaworthy package,suit for all kinds of transport,or as required.
Container Size	20ft GP:5898mm(Length)x2352mm(Width)x2393mm(High) 40ft GP:12032mm(Length)x2352mm(Width)x2393mm(High) 40ft HC:12032mm(Length)x2352mm(Width)x2698mm(High)
Price term	Ex-Work,FOB,,CFR,CIF
Application	Copper bar is widely used in boat building,War industry, Car industry and communication industry where the components need good wear proof and great corrosion resistance
Contact	If you have any question,please feel free to contact me .

Q: I know bar keepers friend and copper glow r really good for stainless steel, copper bottom utensils, where can i find them in atlanta,ga: I buy bar keepers friend in the local grocery. You should find it near Comet cleanser.

Q: A mild steel rod of 20mm diameter and 300mm long is enclosedcentrally inside a hollow copper tube of external diameter 30mmand internal diameter of 25mm. The ends of the tube and rods arebrazed together and the composite bar is subjected to an axial pullof 40kN. If E for steel and copper is 200 GN/m? and 100 GN/m?respectively, find the stresses develop in the rods and tube. Also,find the extension of the rods.?: Ummmm? Are there is?? And any legend?? Short answer is: yes (I think). There are equations and all you have to do is think thru what happens. Of course it depends on how precisely you need the answers to be. To be thorough and technically correct, you need to know the details of the brazing step. Two different materials (or 3 if the braze fills the void between the steel and the copper) brazed into a monolithic structure at a given temperature and then subjected to a temperature change (cooled to room temp). This will create stresses due to CTE mismatch. Your analysis should include these stresses and strains.

Q: Because tap water is slightly acidic; water pipes made of iron corrode over time, . explain in terms of chemical reactivity, why copper pipes are less likely to corrode than iron ones: z ratings are for like 140mph i believe. here: S 180km/h or 112mph T 190km/h or 118mph U 200km/h or 125mph H 210km/h or 130mph V 240km/h or 149mph W(ZR) 270km/h or 168mph Y(ZR) 300km/h or 186mph ZR Above 300km/h or 186mph

Q: suposse that the thermal conductivity of copper is twice that of the aluminium y four times that of brass. Three metal rods, made of copper, aluminium and brass respectively, have 6 inches of lenght and 1inch of diameter.The rods are matched side by side of their ends, with the aluminium rod in the middle. The free ends of the copper and brass rods are at 100?C and 0?C respectively. Calculate the temperatures of equilibrium of the union between copper and aluminium rods, and of the aluminium and brass ones.: The heat conduction equation is: heat flux q - k * (dT/dx) The three rods (equal cross-section (R 0.5 inch), equal length (L 6 inches): - Copper: kc 4a - Aluminium: ka 2a - Brass: kb a - The heat transferred along each rod is the cross-sectional area (pi*(0.5)^2) multiplied by the heat flux. - Since heat is provided/taken out only at the end points (T_h 100 ?C, T_c 0 ?C), the heat transfer must be the same at each junction: nothing goes missing. - Since the cross-sectional areas are all the same, the heat-flux values must also be the same. - The heat flux depends on the temperature gradient over each bar: but since the length of each bar is the same, the temperature gradient depends only on the temperature drop over each bar: q -k * dT/dx -k * ΔT/L So if T(0) T_h at the left end of the copper rod T(L) temperature at the copper/aluminium junction T(2L) temperature at the aluminium/brass junction T(3L) T_c at the right end of the brass rod we conclude that if all the q's are equal, (eqn 1): kc * (T(L) - T(0)) ka * (T(2L) - T(L)) 4a * (T(L) - T(0)) 2a * (T(2L) - T(L)) 2*T(L) - 2*T(0) T(2L) - T(L) (eqn a): T(2L) 3*T(L) - 2*T(0) and (eqn 2): ka * (T(2L) - T(L)) kb * (T(3L) - T(2L) 2a * (T(2L) - T(L)) a * (T(3L) - T(2L) 2*T(2L) - 2*T(L) T(3L) - T(2L) (eqn b): 3*T(2L) T(3L) + 2*T(L) (eqn a) and (eqn b) imply: T(3L) + 2*T(L) 3*T(2L) 3*( 3*T(L) - 2*T(0)) 9*T(L) - 6*T(0) T(3L) + 6*T(0) 7*T(L) T(L) (T(3L) + 6*T(0))/7 and T(2L) 3*T(L) - 2*T(0) (3/7)*(T(3L) + 6*T(0)) - 2*T(0) (3/7)*T(3L) + ((18-14)/7)*T(0) (9*T(3L) + 4*T(0))/7 Therefore: T(0) T_h 100?C T(L) (T_c + 6*T_h)/7 (6/7)*100 85.7?C T(2L) (9*T_c +4*T_h)/7 (4/7)*100 57.1?C T(3L) T_c 0?C T(L) is the temperature of the copper/aluminium junction, T(2L) is the temperature of the aluminium/brass junction.

Q: And I do not have a dishwasher at this house.: I've found that baking soda and a damp scrubbing pad are great for removing lots of things from pots and pans. If the strange color is on the outside of the pan though, you'll want to consider using something else. Here's something else that my mother showed me for making frying pans easy to clean: While they're still hot, put a few drops of dish detergent and water in the pan. Let it sit while you eat. Clean-up afterwards should be a breeze.

Q: Well, I‘ve looked over the wiring and actually running it seems simple enough, the wiring is already there but is in desperate need of replacement. Only problem is I‘m looking over wiring at the local hardware store and are unsure of what wiring to get. Electrical work is something I always want to be careful with because a simple yet costly mistake could result in something worse, like a house fire. So I always want to make sure I got it right, I don‘t want to get the wrong kind and overload it, but also I don‘t want to get something way more than I need and just spend all my Money, so whats the perfect type of wiring should be looking for to tackle this job? By the way in case this matters its a 3 prong Outlet with the Red Black White setup if that helps anyone.: I, personally, have trouble with the barrow trying to tip over sideways on our gently sloped yard. I've never used a 2 wheel but it seems to me it would make that problem go away. I would vote for 2 wheels.

Q: If Money Doesnt Grow On Trees?: you have to dig for it and when you finally hit it it spurts from the ground and you have to catch it and put it into barrels. It's called oil at that moment but after being cleaned and refined, that's when it becomes what we know as money

Q: This question concerns the ground wires (bonding?) I am wiring a new workshop about 200 yds from my house. I plan to have the electric company drop a new line to a new meter for the building. I installed a homeline 200 amp, 30 slot load center and a cutler hammer top feed meter box. I ran 3awg wire for the weatherhead and main/neutral lug(s). My question is where does the #4 bare copper wires hook to? I have one tied into the rebar in the foundation and one hooked to a ground rod.1) In the meter box there is a smaller lug beside the neutral. Is this for a ground?2) In the load center I had to add a ground bar. There are neutral bars on each side of where the breakers go. There is a larger neutral lug on one neutral bar and another beside the incoming neutral lug.I‘m confused as to where these bare copper #4 wires go??? Please help, Thank you: IN MAIN SERVICE PANELS GROUNDS AND NEUTRALS ALL GO TOGETHER. IN CALIFORNIA WE ARE REQUIRED TO GROUND TO YOUR PIECE OF REBAR 1( UFER GROUND)2 (GAS METTER OR GAS PIPE) AND 3 (WATER LINE OR WATER METER)OR SUPLEMENT WITH GROUND ROD. BUT ALL NEUTRALS AND GROUNDS GO ON THE SAME SET OF LUGS AND GROUND BAR. IF YOU ADDED A GROUND BAR THEN INSTALL THE LONG GREEN SCREW IN THE NEUTRAL BUS BAR SO THAT THE BOX IS ALL BONDED

Q: so im trying to get and old party room back together. my parents used it but when I grew up we pretty much turned into storage. anyways. we have this old bar its in good shape just out of date. i dont really want to stain it. i wanna paint it colors of my choosing. and there this padding going around the edge of the bar. thats what looks out of date. i would like to remove it. but if you can think of a cheap easy way to redo the padding im open for ideas. i also may add some additions to the bar also maybe extend it. so any tips on that would be great also.: Pictures would help. What is the covering on the padding? Leather? Vinyl? These can both be dyed, there are guys that do car interiors that do that for a living. IF it's real wood, please don't paint it. Cover it, say with copper. That way you don't hurt the wood. Good wood is hard to find these days, don't destroy it, if that's the case. Heck it might be valuable as is. Maybe you could sell it and build something more to your liking. Maybe you simply get an upholsterer to redo the padded part, but I think you should have somebody that might know look it over before you do a thing to it. Some old bars can be very valuable.

Q: what is the market value of copper base metals today, by the pound?: Type in Metal Prices in your search bar and several links will come up . I use yahoo metal prices .

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