• Newly Design Factory Directly Wholesale Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 1
  • Newly Design Factory Directly Wholesale Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 2
  • Newly Design Factory Directly Wholesale Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 3
Newly Design Factory Directly Wholesale Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

Newly Design Factory Directly Wholesale Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
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Specifications

1.ceramic wall tile, bathroom tile, bathroom wall tile
2.Bath tile
3.kitchen tile
4.CE & ISO9001
5.Grade AA

3D ceramic wall tile

Product Description

Detail product description:

Model no:

CMAX 1005

Tile type:

3D ceramic wall tile

Material:

ceramic tile

Size(MM) :

300*300mm,300*450mm,300*600mm,330*330mm,240*660mm,400*800mm

Thickness(MM):

7.5-8.5mm

Absorption:

waterproof ceramic tile

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used for wall and floor, widely used in kitchen, bathroom, living room, and so on.

Surface:

polished / matt finshed

Certificate:

CE & ISO9001, Soncap, Test

Function:

Acid-resistant, antibacterial, non-slip, wear-resistant

Packaging:

standard cartons and wooden pallets packing

Delivery time:

Within 20 days after received the payment

Payment terms:

L/C,T/T,D/P,D/A

MOQ:

500 square meters

Supply ability:

10000 square meters per day

Usage area:

Interior & exterior floors & walls, inside and outside, bedrooms, hotels, schools, supermarkets and lobbies

Remark:

For more information of our products please kindly visit our website or contact us by email.bettyben@okorder.com

Packaging & Shipping                          

SIZE MM

PCS/CTN

KG/CTN

SQM/CTN

CTN/PALLET

240X600

8

23

1.44

48

330X330

15

24

1.6335

72

300x600

8

26

1.44

60

300x300

15

23

1.35

72

300x450

12

27

1.62

60

Q:What kind of tiles are suitable for home decoration?
Look at the style you like and the stress you can afford
Q:I have a bunch of bottle caps and I thought it might be cool to encase them in some type of clear material so I could use them for tiles in my shower. Is it even possible to do that?
If you have a tile size , sure make the mold just a hair smaller than the tile. Same if your just replacing a few and making the bottle cap tile as a deco tile. Just use a white thin set and completely smooth coat over the back so you see a all white back ground through your deco.. The use of a extra modified thin set is required because this wouldn t be much different than setting glass tiles. GL
Q:I have a purple tub and purple tile through out the bathroom ,how do I change the color ,is there paint I can buy
If you go to the DIY store I would think you would get paint especially for the job. When you have a smooth surface to get paint or varnish to stick to it you need to give it a key (ie use sand paper to give it something to grip) This wouldnt work here as it would damage your tiles. Another thought is you get these transfers which are just squares a different colour that you can put on tiles maybe that would be worth a go.
Q:how I can install ceramic tile on a wall and what tools do I need to do so? Any other tip that I should know about it to do a good job would be appreciated.
no way you can learn from these idiots. get a book at the library or hire someone.
Q:I just remodeled a home and I am having a hard time cleaning the newly istalled tile. I mop and mop but the tile still looks dirty. I guess its all the powder and sand that was created by the remodeling. Am I supposed to use some type of acid or buffer?
Sometimes when tile is installed and the water that was use to shape the joints and remove the excess grout is not changed as often as it should have been, this leaves a bloom on the tile surface. It is THIS (thin haze of grout residue) that is actually dirty not the tile. You must remove this and all will be well. Use a VERY, VERY, VERY,VERY light mixture of muriatic acid and water and clean the entire tile surface. Read and follow cautions on product label
Q:How did the tiles come out?
3, polished tiles Polished tiles is the surface of the whole body of brick body polished by a kind of bright bricks, belonging to a kind of quintana brick. In contrast to the whole body bricks, the surface of the polished tiles is much smoother. Polished tiles are hard and wearable and are suitable for use in most interior spaces except for toilets and kitchens. In the use of infiltration technology on the basis of polished tiles can make a variety of imitation stone, imitation wood effect. Polished tiles will be polished when polished stomata, these pores will be filth, and even some tea poured on the polished tiles are back to the days of weakness. Perhaps the industry is aware of this, and later some good quality polished tiles in the factory are added a layer of anti-fouling layer, but this layer of anti-fouling layer and polished brick to lose the effect of the whole body brick. If you want to continue the whole body, had to continue to brush anti-fouling. The decoration industry also has a water wax before the construction to prevent sticky practices.
Q:I am purchasing a home and need to change the flooring before moving in. It is a 1500 sq foot house including garage, laundry room etc. I have already picked out carpet for the 3 bedrooms but am trying to decide on laminate wood floors or tile? It would be in the rest of the house including hallway, living room, and kitchen. I have heard tile floors are great, yet hard to clean, and hurt people‘s legs. I haven‘t heard too much about the laminate floors.Any opinions, suggestions, stories?? I would really appreciate it!
I have hard woods and tile (bathrooms are tile). I HATE cleaning them. I do love not having any laminate in my house though! If I were to get tile again, I'd install warm floor underneath (they are cold in the winter, cool in the summer) and get a larger tile pattern so there is less grout to get dirty and need cleaning. Laminate, while not of great value for a home, is awesome if you have pets or kids and don't plan on going anywhere for a while. I would also consider hard wood sustainable options, like cork or bamboo.
Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:If you butt the all the tiles without any spacing, will the tile crack or bubble up due the expand and contract?
you could, but moreover you need the space even as little as 1/16 th to keep the tiles from each other so they don't break/chip while rubbing together at setting. all tiles are not exactly the same in size and the grout helps its appearance in keeping straight lines in the setting of tiles. (satillo's are more irregular and need 1/2 to allow for sizing)...as for the bubbles, not sure what you're referring to. go to home depot or Lowe's for correct mud to set your tiles in and grout to separate and fill the gap. there used to be brass that could be used between the tiles, but that's plenty pesos.
Q:Im putting that peel-n-stick tile stuff in my new apartment over the stuff thats there (i dont know what its called but its like plastic kinda) is there any thing i have to do other then sweep before i put the new one down?
you can get an adhesive that will clean the floor and also help the stick tiles adhere better..they sell it at lowes..we did this when we put peel and stick tiles down...and it did work..but we removed the floor the lino..which it sounds like thats what you have too...go to your local home improvment store and ask them...

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