• Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 1
  • Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 2
  • Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 3
  • Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 4
  • Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 5
  • Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom System 6
Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom

Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1383 m²
Supply Capability:
1123200 m²/month

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1. Descriptions of Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile For Kitchen And Bathroom

  Usage: Fitment-living room, bed room, study, wash room, Project-market, bank, hospital,

        metro, school, office building, hotel, bar, aiport, shopping mall, deluxe club, etc..

 

  Material: Ceramic Tiles

 

  Function: Acid Resistance, Wear Resistance, Heat Insulation, Firebrick, Non Slip,

      Antibacterial

 

  Surface Treatment: Glazed Tiles

 

  Technique: Inkjet Tiles

 

  Color: Any color you want

 

  Tile Type: Wall Tiles, Floor Tiles

 

  OEM: Accepted

 

  Free Sample: Available

 

  Certificate: ISO 9001:2008, ISO 14001:2004

 

  Size: 300×300, 300×450, 300×600, 400×800mm 

 

 

2. Features of Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile For Kitchen And Bathroom

  1) Acid Resistance, Wear Resistance, Heat Insulation, Firebrick, Non Slip, Antibacterial

 

  2) Adopted international advanced machines such as Italy SACMI Pressing Machines, Spain

KERAjet Digital Printing Machines, EDING Nano Coating & Antifouling Production Line,

EDING Calibrating Machines, and so on.

 

  3) Big fatory, excellent quality, competitive price, quick delivery

 

 

3. Specifications of Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile For Kitchen And Bathroom

  1) Size: 300×300, 300×450, 300×600, 400×800mm

 

  2) Average Water Absorption: 14.6%

 

 

4. Test Report of Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile For Kitchen And Bathroom

No.

Test Item

National   Standard (GB/T4100-2006)

Test Result

Conclusion

 

 

 

1

 

       Size and deviation

 

±0.5%

Long sides   +0.01% ~ +0.03%

 

Short sides   +0.03% ~ +0.07%

Passed

 

±0.3%

Long sides   -0.01% ~ +0.01%

 

Short sides   -0.03% ~ +0.02%

Passed

 

2

Straightness   of sides

 

 

±0.3%

Long sides   -0.02% ~ +0.04%

 

Short sides   -0.03% ~ +0.05%

Passed

 

3

Rectangularity

      ±0.5%

-0.16% ~   +0.19%

 

Passed

4

Side   Curvature

 

-0.3% ~ +0.5%

Long sides   +0.04% ~ +0.16%

 

Short sides   +0.08% ~ +0.18%

Passed

5

Warpage

±0.5%

-0.08% ~   +0.11%

 

Passed

6

Center   Curvature

-0.3% ~ +0.5%

+0.06% ~   +0.21%

Passed

 

7

Water

Absorption

 

Average Value

> 10%

14.6%

Passed

Minimum Value

> 9%

13.9%

Passed

 

8

 

Rupture

Modulus

 

 

Average Value

15MPa

19.9MPa

Passed

Minimum Value

12MPa

19.4MPa

Passed

9

       Breaking Strength

600N

(Thickness 7.5mm )

1156N

Passed

10

       Surface Quality

At least 95%   without surface defect

100% without   surface defect

Passed

11

Stain   Resistance

Minimum three   levels

Five levels

Passed

 

 

 

5. Pictures of Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile For Kitchen And Bathroom

Interior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroomInterior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroomInterior Glazed Ceramic Wall Tile for kitchen and bathroom

 


Q:We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out
Q:How to look at the quality of tiles
Not a professional to buy tiles, as long as the attention of tiles glazed light, flat, slippery, delicate, color should be clear, the pattern should be uniform, percussion to crisp (cooked), the size to be consistent. I see that Bacheng is a good tiles.
Q:Trying to clean my kitchen's Ceramic tiles . Does any one know a good way to clean stain from Ceramic tiles and how to prevent it in future.
what is the stain caused from?
Q:want to tile counter top with out using hardboard
Can yes you can (can means able to). And you may do it as long as the subsurface of the counter where you place the tile on is solid and will not move (most counter tops have too much movement in them to keep the grout from cracking). You can check this by standing or sitting on the counter top and see if your weight makes even the slightest bow in the counter top. If you decide your counter top is strong and stable enough then make sure you sand (rough up) the Formica before you try to cover it with anything else. What you might consider doing is placing either 1/2 inch cement board or another layer of 3/4 birch plywood or MDF board screwed and glued down to the existing counter top. Tile is expensive so do it right.
Q:I‘m installing 13 x 13 cermic tiles. We‘ve laid the tile to try to configure the best layout. However, the one with the best layout with the easiests cuts leaves one very complicated one. The tile lies directly on the air duct, with the cut being a large rectangular hole in the middle of the tile. If we adjusted the layout to have 2 tiles lay over the duct, it creates more complicated cuts everywhere else.How do you suggest I cut this tile?We have only a wet tile saw.
I would go with the one that falls with one tile on the vent. then, go to Lowe's and pick up a ceramic tile drill bit. they have a bit that is specifically made for drilling through glass and ceramic tile, a masonry bit will crack the tile. they are relatively expensive for a drill bit because they have a relatively flat diamond coated tip. using this bit you can outline the cut with bit holes. if you drill enough holes, you can simply break the center out of the tile. just take your time and drill plenty of holes or you will crack the tile. I think that it would look cool if the duct came directly out of the center of a tile.
Q:Anyone know if that type of ceiling tile has asbestos? Unsure of the year built. It has a texture to it which is why I‘m worried about it.
No. That looks like just ordinary lay in ceiling tile. Texture is not really and indication of asbestos. Lots of things have texture that are not asbestos.
Q:would it be to hard for me to do by myself and is there an adhesive that I put under the tile?
Carpet tiles are easy to install. Some even come with their own adhesive backing. You will need to begin with marking out the center of the room and squaring it to make a + so you can set the firs four tiles down and work outward from the center. Once you have marked your + do a dry run and make sure you don't end up with a large chunk of tile on one wall and a sliver on the other. If that happens, shift the center mark toward the shorter edge. Once you have done the dry run and you are happy with the results you can stick them down. Good luck
Q:I have 12x12 field tile and a strip of accent that‘s about 2 high. Everything I‘ve read says that you want to have the accent at eye level, which makes sense to me. Judging for myself, it LOOKS best at eye level. If I place it at eye level, I wind up with a full 12x12 tile above it, or at least, a 12 space above it. So going down to the tub, I would have a 2 1/2 cut tile at the bottom, right above the tub.Everything I have read also says that you want to have the cut tiles at the top and bottom symmetrical.
Provided the tub is fairly level, start a full tile at the bottom and work up. Tile will look fine at a 5 or six foot level ( I prefer 5 ft.) Not every one has the same eye level so the strip will be fine. The tub surround will be a bit different too so what I suggest is measuring on the tub wall the tile heights and stand back and look at it. Use a pc of tape the approx width of the strip and tape it or draw it on the tub wall s prior to tiling. Will give you a better idea. Also take into account any fixtures you may put in such as a shampoo/soap shelf. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. I ve also have down 100s of tub surrounds. GL
Q:The tile in my shower floor got torn apart
use a stanley knife to scrape out the grout.remove the tile using a hammer and a bulster or a old chissel always work from the middle avoiding damage to the other tiles.next use the hammer and bolster to chip up all the old adhesive next spread the new tile adhesive on the new tile lay it and check that its not sticking out in front of the other tiles.make sure its level with them.once dry after a thew hours then you can grout it.
Q:We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)

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